Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You have given a model number that does not exist but WMAOD743P ( or could be a G colour version ) UK does so based on this model: ” Thanks for your help. I just don’t want to go down the route of paying for work that’s not actually needed ” UHH! what he means is YOU check the filter and you check the end of the outlet pipe especially if connected to an under the sink nozzle. F05 can be the the pressure switch itself which is not that common OR a pump out problem which is very common. The logic is that because you only have a problem with a highly absorbent load more water goes into the machine than for any other type of cloth meaning more water has to be pumped away. The filter is a good place to start followed by the end of the outlet pipe and its sink nozzle if that is how you have it plumbed out. Whatever you do do not go messing about with the pressure switch, Hotpoint diagram part J00192066, such as blowing into it, these linear type pressure switches are not the same as the mechanical type and doing that will mess it up and you`d prove nothing in anycase in the process.
[You could try the following . Turn the power off remove the left hand side cover and you should see a near 6″ vertical red or black plastic rod towards the front of the appliance rod at the bottom.This is the emergency flood rod which is at its bottom via a grey arm on top of a piece of polystrenne acting as a float, If the machine floods its base, though you said it hasn`t, the float floats upwards moves the rod upwards and it triggers a micro switch which turns the drain pump on whether the door is closed or open so long as the machine is switched on all that happens is the drain pump runs forever. That micro switch OR the unit it is attached to is faulty. BUT why the triac blew is a different matter and whether anything else on your circuit board is damaged is an unknown.Sometimes gently moving the rod up and down temporarily sorts out the micro switch enough to prove the point.
YOU COULD DO THE FOLLOWING. Turn the power off remove the left hand side cover and you should see a near 6″ vertical red or black plastic rod towards the front of the appliance rod at the bottom.This is the emergency flood rod which is at its bottom via a grey arm on top of a piece of polystrenne acting as a float, If the machine floods its base, though you said it hasn`t, the float floats upwards moves the rod upwards and it triggers a micro switch which turns the drain pump on whether the door is closed or open so long as the machine is switched on all that happens is the drain pump runs forever. That micro switch OR the unit it is attached to is faulty. BUT why the triac blew is a different matter and whether anything else on your circuit board is damaged is an unknown.Sometimes gently moving the rod up and down temorarily sorts out the micro switch enough to prove the point.
1)Like the concrete weight mix similar to a Vestel machine but think it would`ve been better to have a circular weight as per Vestel which allows better access without removing the weight.
2)Not sure about recirculation pump being a good idea if I was designing it I would`ve ditched that idea as the machine`s pipe will get limed up = not recirc = over heated pump = possible pump failure = blown triac on pcboard,
3)Agreed, Brush motor going to be more reliable. Induction/inverter motor`d machine more likely to have pcb problem as years go by as main capacitor will fail = no drum action.
4)Would have had the sump hose swinging to the left then coming into the pump where the pump is with a moulded rubber coin / shirt stiffener catch 4″ in length / 6″ deep about 10″ before the hose gets to the pump. Using a round weight would allow this to be done. The way the hose comes done at rt angle into pump will cause f/objects to lodge so that filter cannot be unscrewd as many a Bosch owner knows only so well!!!
5)Agreed. do not like it having no filter flap but do like the emergency drain hose.
6)Not sure about about the real benefit of the remote clicking door lock, but then I`m a bit pickey
7)Think the front panel removal could have been better without taking off the w/top, fasia panel to gain access to the screws- that could have been so much better in my view – so something similar to an old Bosch.
8)Like the interchangeable parts to keep those production costs lower.
9)plastic tank a mistake but understandable to keep cost low. How is using a plastic tank eco friendly at end of use?
10)gauge of drum s/steel would be nice to know.
11)type aluminium of bearing spider ditto.
12) heater at the back, why not at the front if the weight was redesigned
13)Like a dismantleable tank but looks very similar to a Vestel way of doing things but it would have been a bit cleverer to have had the two halves of the tank much further forward so remove weight and dismantle without having to remove the tank out of the machine because of the top spring anchoring points.
Ok some points there.
My conclusion soley based on this video: Its Ok but could have been better and may well be one day. Hot fill a great idea despite what Uk whitegoods says on the subject.I would not buy any Bosch! I notice you haven`t seen or mentioned the price of the spares. The sealed tanks can last as little as 4 years and the models where you can change the bearings the parts prices can, depending upon how trashed the fault ends up by the time the repair bloke is called, can easily be a wright off. Bosch are not that good but neither is anything else that good either!
Frankly if I was living alone ( as I soon will be-my other half is terminally ill ) I would go for an 8kg 1400 spin Lindo series Zanussi circ £300. That has a sealed tank but at least they put grease on the bearing oil seal so for your usage the machine should last and be a far better bet than a Bosch. Zanussi parts are not that cheap either but then if it is 200 quid less than the machines you have rattled off,well, your ahead of the game by 200 quid aren`t you?
As for your other Bosch questions I do not know either, you`d have to phone-up Bosch and ask them.Hey Don you haven`t by a slim chance got any vested interest in Liebherr have you?
The spares are a complete rip off or obsolete. e.g. lower freezer draw front £138, freezer evaporator sensor a snip at £173, a freezer draw £161, another frz draw £211, door handle kit at £173, a hinge piston £221, a Rnco t/stat £119, a fridge freezer t/stat a whizz @ £327. Come off it! All parts prices via Partmaster as read on 24/09/2020 as this is where Joe Public would most likely go to get fleeced.“And, without intervention it will just end up like toasters and kettles, they’re throwaway completely as many already are” But refence washing machines, that`s because the spares are so expensive!!. What would you do on a failed Miele if you were a member of Joe public? That part/s could be 400 quid plus the cost of the repair guy = a possible 500 quid on a 800 quid machine = too expensive to repair ( and then what`ll be next? ) but too expensive a machine to scrap = caught by the short ones. Not a good position to find yourself in. VERSES an Indesit that going to cost 115 to get Indesit out, part 85 quid = £200, and a new machine with a 10 year parts warranty costs £230 or less to replace it so the point is what would you rather devalue from? I can see everyones point, and I can see how expensive Indesit and Hotpoint spares are these days….they`ve gone up big time yet again as expected…it`s that Whirlpool effect ( American firm so what do you expect? ) but it is not just those two it is everyone. I stumbled upon a Haier front weight washer, because I trawl through Partmaster every now and again to see what is going on – so how sad is that ? – 32euros for a poxy ordinary washer, it`s a shameless rip off. Or a 3 way i/let valve for a wretched Siemens at £85.OR machines with no spares or not many at all. Nope, the trade and the whole industry has only got itself to blame and NOT the public. They are fleecing and conning the public so that is why folks buy cheap and then walk away when they fail. If you bought an Indesit and it lasted 7 years and cost you 230 quid or less you did ok, if you bought a Bosch, Miele for 800 and it lasted 7 years you didn`t given the same usage; but then crystal balls do not work! Saw a 599 quid Bosch at 4 years old, sealed tank, bearings shot, couple with no kids, it is a dreadful state of affairs.
I`m glad there are cheap machines out there, I make a reasonable living repairing cheap machines up to 300 retail purchase price, the only reason why there is all this talk of playing them down is you cannot charge much to repair them and that, in all honesty, is the major reason why the repair trade is scornful.
Having owned loads of second hand machines of all different types ( because I used to repair them, use them, and then sell them on ) I have never had a truly bad wash in any of them and that even includes a shallow paddled Electra from the Antonio Merloni era better seen as under the Servis brand, but a dreadful thing for other reasons. What I have seen is wash times that will have folks collecting their pension pot by the time the poxy things finish….think I`ll stick with my 19 year old hot and cold fill Hotpoint WM56 50 degrees wash rinse and spin at 900rpm in 59 minutes and that is work clobber too.This MIGHT apply to you. If the seal looks ok and it looks ok where the drum mets the door seal under normal circumstances it`ll be the drying condenser blocked-up with smelly lint as this will be above the water line but still gets damp = rots. Though you said you only used the dryer rarely but was that fluffy cotton towels and more times on t/dry than you think you have used the dryer?
All things being well with washer dryers esp having done washing at 60 degrees and the 90 degree maintenance wash you would not normally come to grief esp if then using the t/dryer as the heat would destroy any bacteria BUT what is often forgotten is the lint that gets trapped in the condenser, so it is a catch 22 senario! I think the condenser is where your problem could well be.OR something got under the drum and has got caught on the heaters bracket and is rotting there the bracket and heater is lower than you think other wise the offending cloth rolls into a sausage shape and you`d have a stiff drum.250g box of Aqua Softna descaler is what I use. Good stuff. Sometimes I add 3 cap fulls of Liquid lemon Flash too to remove any sludge build ups. Been doing this on my 19 year old Hotpoint for 16 years ( its a second hand machine )
Hi. Most likely it`ll be worn or near worn out motor brushes even though you say the machine does spin. What often happens is that although the brushes are worn out there is a short period of time where the electricity jumps through the remaining brush and so the machine can still sort of work but not for very long. These, and most other machines, are wired through the motor so if there is a fault with the brushes the machine eventually even fails to do anything ( other than the facia lights remain on ).
There are 8 versions of a JLWM1203 and parts are based on the product code, begins with 91??????/??, and not the model number Jlwm1203 ( John Lewis machines are really re-badged Electrolux / Zanussi machines, well, for our purposes they are ) the trouble is when you look up on say, the Zanussi site you will find only an expensive motor listed and not the motor brushes and that really is due to several different motors that are used ( brought in parts ). The most common type of brushes on your model used are Ce-set the other being Sole brushes ( and they will look completely different ) but neither of which will inter change and so you will have to match your brushes up to pictures which should get you the right ones. It is important that you note the angle of the actual carbon bit end of the brush, does it angle to the right or angle to the left? – Ce-set brushes are used by every manufacturer and man and his doggy in other words the plastic bits may outwardly look the same but they are not, same goes for Sole motors too.Unlikely to a pcb problem. So I take it it the machine ORIGINALLY did not spin, though it did pump out, so you changed the motor. Were the motor brushes worn out or was the armature shot, is that the sole reason why you changed the motor?
What you need to do is this: does the drum go around on a wash programme? If your new motor does then other than a broken wire it is not a motor fault. The most common reason for no spin on one of these machines when they get on a bit is a a blockage of yukk in the machine`s are trap: sequence is: the machine typically fills higher than is normal, pumps out as normal ( all being well with the pump filter ) but as the machine has drained the compressed air in the air trap / pressure switch hose cannot excape because of the blockage so the machine thinks it has water in it so it will not spin. You need to turn the power off, remove the lid, and you are looking for a thin hose on the right that goes from the bottom of the machine to a switch called the pressure switch. Remove the hose at the pressure swt end , take a gob of water and shoot that water down through the pipe, any restrictions as you blow = a blockage = your problem. To do the job properly normally means dismantling the removal of the front panel or working on the machine underneath to remove and clean out the air trap physically. Hope this suggestion helps.Sorry had a computer problem.No, just leave it alone. All brushes will spark a small amount even after running in. If however you have large bright green and blue firework display WITH loud sounding sparking noise then your armature / motor is nuked and no amount of magic wand waving would cure that.
To add on a re-read. And if, by how you`ve written it, you are using 400 grams of washing soda crystals instead of detergent….don`t. Also Soda crystals acts as a water softenering effect which is why you are getting so much froth and adding Flash is going to be asking for trouble combined so in your case don`t do that either. I do wish people would tell the full story at the very beginning, so full of surprises. All the best to you.
