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Think you need a very good fridge engineer who is well versed with your model which I am not. BUT I would suspect from my ancient foray into the crazy world of complex frost free contraptions ( and your machine is one ) it could be the fridge/freezer defrost heater gone to pot part 2142142096 £51. The fridge freezer over heat protection thermostat a blue and grey wired with 2 black sensors part 2146281064 £37. Fride/freezer temperature sensor part 2425155054 £39 or the cause could be none of these and be the pcboard which is a phone Electrolux up because it may be obsolete. Does not answer your question directly but merely suggests the route cause of the possible problem
Make sure the product codes match is the key comment here. The product code is written on the sticky rating label with your model number. So ask the seller if he knows what his prod code is if he knows or look your prod code up on the Electrolux spares website by typing in first the model number and then the site will ask you to choose a prod code, if there is only one…life is simple, if 6 versions life will or may not be so the only way then is to see if all the pcbs are all the same which they may or may not be or they could be the same part number but are preprogrammed for each differing version – and you thought this might have been easy, welcome to the domestic appliance world!!! The answer is…..it`s all a gamble!
This is what I think may be happening. Go to Google and type in Partmaster then follow the prompts to your model number. Find dispenser and click on that part and a picture will show up with the dispenser shown upside down. That nozzle that you see is of course where the fill water rushes through via a rubbber hose to fill the machine. One half of that nozzle though acts as a breather and if that gets blocked up inside your machine, as it fills up, goes into a semi vacuum mode which causes the filling water to flood out of the soap box because the air within the machine, being displaced by the water, has nowhere to escape. The Partmaster part number is 3800498pm. Dismantle to check and clean it out before buying anything you do not need to!
Water softener to tank nut loose? Heater hoses join to heater? Left hand side air break to tank ” nut ” loose. Pin prick hole in s/steel tank – had one of those on a wretched Bosch on Monday but Zannusi are not immune from that either. Probably one of these? But could be anything really
Ahh but is the tank unit in stock in UK? Their European spares warehouse is in sunny Italy, 10 to 15 day wait.
The new belt (exact same spec) is considerable tighter than the old one.
Very odd how a slipping belt could sound like it did but there we are.Well done I missed that! Indesits and Aristons used to initially make a metallic slipping noise ( hard to describe better ) which tended to fade somewhat as the belt got a little warm ( due to friction ). They, like nearly everything else, have an elasticated belt e.g. 1196 j5( the guage per ribs, 5 ribs in this example ) EL which stretch over time making them slack on both pulleys hence the noise.These can stretch a good 2″+. Now you know that is why it only happen when a load of clothes were in the drum.
Just a point. A cracked drum pulley spoke makes a similar noise especially if it is metal but unlike a belt the noise always remains.Sussed it! Follow this carefully. The Partmaster site shows your model as a Whirlpool with a model number 854533715310 also known as a Tkd795 but mentions nothing about the /2 bit, so see my first post re heater. It also gives a another version F092264 BUT SHOWS THE SAME WHIRLPOOL VERSIONS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED which is a Bosch code but not its real model number which gleaned from someones other post as a TKD795/2 is really A se6tie1gb BUT there is no /two numbers which you would need as there are different Bosch versions of the same. Looking on the Bosch site will give you no answer since although I`m sure your machine is in fact a Bosch that is re-badged Bosch but sold ( as this is very common in the trade ) as a Tecnik. The couple of Tecnik models that I looked up under SE6TIE1GB says nile stock = obsolete BUT there appears to be no way to X reference Tecnik to Bosch parts though I would be pretty sure the heater would be available from Bosch but which heater it is is unknown.
Right having got that out of the way!! Has your machine got a plastic base? The way I used to do this on Bosch is power off, lid off, sides off-two screws at the front per panel, door closed, plinth off 1 screw each side. Then I used to turn the whole machine empty machine upside down, undo the two screws holding the metal strip at the front that goes left to right behind that plactic plinth you just moved earlier, undo the 2 screws that hold the plastic base to the metal frame which will allow you to lift the plastic base away. Wedge the base up with a long screwdriver and the heater unit is on the right hand side on the base as a grey or white box affair held on to the sump with 3 screws ( from memory). BUT BEFORE YOU do anything just described I would make sure the heater has in fact is the culprit with a test meter then having proved the point make sure you can get the part. Have a look at Bosch part number 00498623. I am NOT saying that is the correct part only that if the detective work is correct it`ll look like that part. Best of luck.” Thank you for answering.
Such a shame. Brands do not make the same quality products than they used to. It seems that they do it to get a reputation and, by the time they acquire this reputation, they start to cut costs. Blindly, people still think the brand remains the same quality, but in reality, this is just not true.
I hope this law will be adopted but I doubt it will make any real difference in reality. It is all is about economics.
It is always sad to waste resources like this poor machine you saw yesterday. We should always be able to do something.
I will consider Miele for the moment. Hoping it will last.
You take care! “
I could not agree more. You summed it up perfectly. Excuse me for re-writing your post; take no offence..English is not the easiest one to get spot on as, on occasion, I myself know only too well!.
“Just another thought – if you were in a position to be able to design or influence the design for a washing machine – what approach would you take? What would be the top ten features you would incorporate to make your job of repairing easy and cost-effective? “
Basically a revamp of a Zanussi DL series but as a max capacity of 7kg and max speed 1100 using a brush motor working inconjunction with a simple motor pcboard, AKO electromechanical timer with thermostop, steel and enamel tank, quick removable front panel, cast iron external spider with grease nipples, marine grade ally spider, hot and cold fill using half inch nozzle valves – all programmes except wool hot and cold fill except 60 and 90 degrees where it fills hot, top notch heater, mechanical old type switches, separate thermostat, no base plate, wide rubber feet, increased water level or low level by switch, adjustable tension belt three quaters of an inch wide by 1/8″ thick, triple suspension, and cast iron weights locked by castle nuts and split pins, cast metal door, a proper pump with a proper filter with emergency drain pipe, stamped,( not a cast hinge ) and door handle with solenoid release door lock, nice large metal drum preformed wash paddles, max programme running time excl prewash 2.30 hours, quickiest wash at 45 minutes….you plan ahead!. In other words everything a modern washing machine is not with the added benefit of not a single microprocessor board in site nor anything built-in!!!! Does that answer your question? Retail cost 1500 quid 3 year warranty on all parts, Guaranteed parts availability for 30 years+. Made in England by people who know what they are doing. A ban on all imported cr*p. That should do it and stop all this p*ss*ng and ars*ng about in the trade trying to be clever.OLD post. Most likely got nothing to do with the door or component failure but on a pump out the stand pipe is blocked-up and the water bubbles over the top, hits the floor then runs towards the front giving the impression the actual machine is leaking when it is not or the pipe has a split in it which is fairly common.
Nothing on Partmaster listed as a Logik TKD795 with or without the /2 EXCEPT as a Whirlpool dishwasher which it could well be right based on the model number you have given? If so and from memory and we are all talking about the same machine but a rebadged brand you access the heater from a removable sheet of metal underneath is typically the W/pool way of doing things and the heater is that cylindrical part. Of course it is possible that a Logik TKD795 does exist and is an entirely different contraption, but it t`aint listed as a Logik… Google Partmaster then type in 2330046pm which is the Partmaster part number and ye shall see the picture of the part if you have something completely different we are talking about 2 different machines 1 of which, your machine, there is no info.
Presume the electronic neon on the operating pcb has gone. A pre-programmed pcboard part number is 11014347 and is a snip at £96.62. 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure that you leave the board alone as success at soldering a tiny pcb replacement neon is very remote indeed. Suggest if the actual machine still works just fine other than this issue leave the machine as it is.
Yes that is right at trade price as a pattern part. Only mentioned for the benefit of the public is do note that the cir-clip is often not fitted if a pattern part and is easily not noticed so it needs to be removed from the old spider and refitted to the new spider. If you do not do this the phosphor bronze (?) hub gets damaged and water gets in and nukes the bearings.
The Hotpoint WM series had a couple of niggly issues, the more basic one such as my WM56 being one of the better ones, but I have to say across the series they`re by no means a bad machine. Anyone who still has one is well recommended to keep hold of it for as long as possible, Hotpoint pcboard electronics from this era were pretty good as was the guage of wires used and end tags. Made in England too. One of those series where parts are still fairly plentiful with a fair number of decent pattern parts around as a cheaper option though Hotpoint have increased parts prices on these models recently. I`ve just changed both dampers on mine 2 weeks ( well worth 20 quid trade price ) ago so no more leaping around in a bid to escape the kitchen!An old question but revisited. Anyone else who gets this fault the most likely suspect is the heater as they commonly run to earth feed back through the pcb giving you the no pump out error code which misleads you into thinking it`s the pump fault which it may well be but can also be the heater to part earth.
