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400g soda crystals……..be very careful using this stuff as if you read the packet it will say DO NOT USE ON ALUMINIUM. Your bearing spider will be aluminium and you will damage it in that concentration! I do not know what region you live but it sounds as though you live in a soft water area or maybe have a water softener for the amount of froth you are getting in which case things now change, shame it wasn`t mentioned before.. Reduce the amount of powder / detergent. Stop using the soda crystals, if you want to try the Flash trick use 1 or 2 CAP fulls only and if you really do have soft water you do not need the descaler do you because there should not be any scale?
a) Yes that will be the new brushes bedding in. Keep the initial loads fairly light because though the brushes obviously have the angle they do not have the curve ( due to running in ) which means the surface area of point of touch on the commutator is not a lot presently for the amperage the motor is going to draw – this is me just being a bit extra careful! b) quite possibily. The main thing is you do not a massive blue and green fireworks display from the motor when the motor is on full throttle ( on spin! ) it you get that the armature is nuked. Anyway doubt you`ll have problems now. It`s a pleasure. All the best.
Higher temperature.
(a) kills smelly bacteria. Yes it will but you might nuke your clothes in the process as you point out. Mind you all my stuff says wash at 40 but I wash at 50 but then again all my stuff is worthless work clothes that will not last that long in anycase. I presume you do not work repairing lorries, trains or farm equipment, might be a silly comment but I know women who do ( just not in the UK as it just happens to be ).
(b) dissolves dirt from clothes. Only partly true. Ideally it is bio powder for clothes at 45 or less and non bio for higher temperatures. But that is just a rule of thumb and might now be out of date with all temperature powder / detergent having both an enzyme and bleach based components in the box.
(c) dissolves detergent. ditto but also depends upon number of rinses. I will mention that the rave going on about 15 minute quick 30 degree washes leads, due to the total misuse of the programme, to all sorts of problems, bad smells being just one of them.
What this is really all about, other than smells ( and air trap blockages = over filling ), is the protection of the internal drum spider a point I really did not mention ( the aluminium drum support and its molly steel bearing shaft ). There are about 8 different common aluminium alloys out there in normal engineering and some will be better than others in a hostile world that the washing machine is. Trouble is low temperature washing encourages bacteria which speeds up the corrosion of the spider so that it pits and fractures which, and this is the bottom line = new spider = which so oftern = new drum complete = with most Western European machines that have modern sealed tanks as one unit = an expensive quote to replace it = more likely a new machine ( least on the stuff I usually work on )…..and at an early age too e.g. 4 to 6 years irrespective as to the machine`s purchase price in very servere cases. It is the similar situation with a Robin Reliant steering box casing, presumably, in this case, the effect of road salt and rain, shame they didn`t coat them in a varnish.
The conclusion. If you are happy with your wash outcome at the temperatures you use out of necessity then stick with it. But increase the number of service washes to compensate to once every 5 weeks and, as you point out, this all you can really do.
Contrary to popular belief washing machines do cost extra money to run, the electricity might only be a measely 30 quid a year but you do have to keep on top of them by internally cleaning; seen some machines in such a terrible state in the past that I refuse to do bearing repairs on them, given I do not charge a callout charge it must be bad but then who wants to get covered in crap…..literally?The issue i believe is that the hot air is not being condensed hence the hot and damp clothes but maybe im wrong , this is by far the hardest fault iv ever tried to repair. Yeah I see your point but which would still point to the valve at fault; could even be electrically ok but mechanically the valve is not opening enough which is, admitedly, very rare unless of course the valves restricter ( that yellow (?) plastic bung thing shoved into the valve`s exit nozzle is part blocked up but that is not common but a possibility all the same ) . Of course the same symptom could be said of a partial blockage in the condenser but a full blown blockage would normally take out the dryer o/load ( = no power to the dryer elements = no heat ) as previously mentioned. What I do where the condenser is part of a moulded tank ( ever increasingly common these days…a cost cutting measure ) having removed or put to the side the fan blower manifold unit to one side is to use the machines inlet pipe, if it will reach, and put it down the through into the condenser and spray water into it at mains water pressure for less than 10 seconds. Close the machine`s door just in case you get overly enthusiastic otherwise wet floor and feet because the tank is going to fill up! It goes without saying but I`m going to stress it: do not forget to electrically unplug the machine! Other than these pointers I am now at a loss.
“I finally have to day that when” should read: Finally, I should point out that…
This is what happens at 12.25 in the morning!!
Well, There is an write-up called ” smelly washing machine” somewhere on this site. But I will tell you what I do and a few ins and outs which I will keep simple ( because if you delved into all this it really isn`t! ). My machine is a Hotpoint WM56 which is second hand and is over 20 years old and has gone wrong twice – since I installed it new for the previous owner, who passed away, all those years ago I now its history 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}. There are two issues 1) lime / snowy white chalk which may cause problems but smelling is not one of them and 2) bacteria ridden sludge which is the issue with causing smells. My washing gets mega dirty crawling around repairing w/machines every day so I overdose the machine using Surf powder. It does seem that bio liquid causes a fair few problems reference smells but it has more to do with, as with the powder version, the low temperatures recommended as per daft TV commercials based on the rather idiotic idea that you save money which you do not especially if it nukes your machine prematurally.
“I believe liquid detergents are the worst offenders, so presumably it’s better not to use too much liquid detergent -or- would that fail to dissolve fatty dirt and actually create residues?” So, you can say yes you are right if the detergent is enzyme based meant for low temperature liquid but that might not be true if its a liquid old fashioned ( but good ) non bio liquid with a bleach based detergent of a decent make. It is a combination of heat ( or the lack of it ) and detergent that disperses the fat / dirt deposits. Actually, in reality, the wash cycle loosens the offending dirt / grease and the series of rinsing actually washes the clothes, not necessarily what you may have thought. So, for coloureds most synthetics are washed at 40 degrees using a bio powder and cotton white towels and tea towels at 60 degrees or 60 degrees + using a bleach based powder detergent. All I can and will say is 1) all my work clobber is washed on programme F which is a 50 degree cycle that takes 1 hour finishing off with a 900 short spin. 2) Anything white in the bed linen department that my lodger uses, and this is where things get a bit complicated, she sets on Programme D which is hot fill only with the economy button IN = the machine will wash at 60, 1100 spin OR she sometimes uses D with the the ecomomy button OUT = the machine still fills up with hot water but washes with what it gets given = no heating, 1100 spin. It all depends whether the boilers been on that particular day or not as the case may be. Either way all the washing always comes out just dandy using Surf powder whether at 50 or a possible 60. We do not faff about using non bio higher temperature powder for the whites, where she sometimes adds 2 cap fulls of bleach ( which is theory should kill the enzyms but I can tell you that it all seems to work out very well ).
“Does the same apply to washing powder? I have the impression some of the ingredients in a powder actually dissolves residues (as used in a maintenence wash) but would slightly too much end up contributing to residues?” Does not seem to make much odds but a good point since a Maintenance wash ( m/wash ) is done without clothes in the machine. And, there is m/washes which are a specific programme on some machines that tumble at 80 rpm inside of normal tumble speed that is about 55 rpm what machines do and don`t no idea without looking it all up!The bottom line: This is what I have done on my machine for the last 14 years since I got my paws on it to prevent smells. I have hard water so every 8 weeks this is what I do: I set the machine on D for 60 degrees I use 1 box ( 250 grams ) of Aqua Softna ( trade name ) in the soap draw with 3 CAP ( NOT cups!!! ) fulls of liquid lemon Flash ( 2 quid a large bottle that lasts a year ) and start the machine. 4 years ago the bearing oil seal sounded like a mouse – a precurser of oil seal failure = then bearing failure so decided to dismantle the machine to change offending seal so avoiding any future trouble, point is the machine was and still is spotless except the spider lattice which did have a bit of residue powder but it is no big deal. So, machine is 22 years old, more or less internally spotless, gone ” wrong ” twice, oil seal, and the usually WM failure point: the curse of the top tank springs. I finally have to day that when I first got the machine I carried out 2 modications. A change to a more reliable motor Fhp motor and a tweek to the water level pressure switch to increase the water level on wash up by 6 liters so it washes better, indeed it does!
I was somewhat unsure at the time about the this valve diagnosis because it is not overly common! What I did do was to take the old offending valve home and rig up a test lead using ( which I presume you won`t have ) a spare 2 wire connector with its foot of wire cut off a spare old Indesit wiring loom and wired the other end into live and neutral of a spare mains cable and twisted the end bare wires 1 to live and t`other 1 to neutral and then isolated each with electrical tape. Then plugged the mains cable into the mains socket. You will hear the valve very faintly hum then if FAULTY it will eventually fail. You might not have given it enough time to fail as someone else has pointed out. Mine eventually failed after about 10 to 15 mins and as soon as it did – no humming: power off, UNPLUGGED, and then tested with a meter using the 2 solder circular dots on top of the green solenoid = open circuit coil. I then left this alone for 30 minutes (?) and then measured with my meter as before and got a reading = a circuit. So it fails and cools down it then forms a circuit again. I then re-ran the same test again and it failed again but I did not bother timing how long any of this took to screw-up ( hmm, I wish I had ), but it was a shorter time than before until it did.
What I can tell you is that the customer never called me back so she either thinks I`m a total nob end ( I can`t possibly believe that is true! ) and didn`t bother calling me back to face da music …BUT…..I can assure you she would`ve it it had not cured the problem since, as you point out and quite rightly, the part is not particularily cheap. It has been a fair few months since it was fixed.YEP they are the same 1 is a pattern part of t`other one. Just make sure the angles are the same points to left OR points to right to match up your new pair up.
Hi Gokhk. Yes agreed I have a Haus 1050 version which is about 10 years old if not older until it was no longer in daily use, was next door neighbours until she passed away then her family gave it to me some days later. I do not use it but it still works fine classed as a back-up in the garage….`cause you never know? Nice old fashioned buttons and electronics. Some of these Chinese made machines are actually not that bad, Statesman for example are quite well made too, the aged 3 I have seen are straight forward to repair but that is very limited experience. On the spares front they helped me out on only the 3 ocassions I needed spares with no trouble, maybe I just got lucky?.Yes, but that top loader machine is £874.80 and has only a mere 6 months warranty which is a joke surely? Typical Brit sense of humour! If I was you I would phone up EBAC and get hold of the facts then you will know where you stand. The question you need to ask them is: do the hot and cold fill models a) on all wash programmes do they fill cold and hot together ( other than 1 or 2 synthetic wool cycles) with hot only fill/s only for 60 degree programmes or above SO BASICALLY THE SAME AS A HOTPOINT WM56 ( which is what I have 20 years old now and I`m hanging onb to it!! ). You want a yes or no answer. Reason being EBAC might be doing things the old continental practice which was: b) everything was wash cycle cold fill then heats up the water, except 60 to 90 degree programmes, they filled hot and possibily a mixed fill ( of sorts ) on 60 degree or less synthetics cycle. If what they mean by hot and cold fill a) = good, OR if b) then you are only going to be marginally better off as compared to just a cold only fill machine. Tell them, if they do not know over the phone that you will e-mail them with your questions. If you then get no reply……stuff`em!
Hi. Thx for getting back. I`d leave the commutator part of the armature well alone if I was you other than blowing off brush dust. You have not mentioned it but commutator cleaning sticks cause problems so do not be tempted as they are really meant for armatures set up to spin on a lathe. These Chinese made machines can be long lasting, from memory yours is a badged Haier and very similar to a Haus brand version, come to think about it a couple of Russell Hobbs too. If it is the brushes your best bet is to run the machine through a complete wash cycle to allow them to “run in”. On your model it is best to remove the motor and change the brushes rather to faff about with it propped up with your bonce under the machine; more time consuming but much easier given the front concrete weight gets in the way off a normal length screw driver. Match your duff brushes ( assuming I`m right ) to the part number I gave you to double check via a picture off the net note the the brush`s carbon angle points either to the left or right to match those up to what you have since there is another set floating around that looks identical but isn`t but I cannot remember what model / make they fit.
I had this problem on a similar AEG WASHER DRYER a couple of months ago. It was the green solenoid winding breaking down: sometimes it would work = closed circuit roughly the same as your reading then suddenly an open circuit solenoid coil and remained open circuit for 20 to 30 minutes so no water was going through it then the coil would go back to how it should be then failed again but only after 5 minutes. Strange old fault and took a bit of detective work and luck. I replaced the 3 way valve and it has been as good as gold ever since. So the bottom line is my very attractive female customer has no hot steamy damp undies anymore…………least not from the washer dryer!
Normally a blockage in the condenser that is severe would take out the t/dryer o/load stat that being its whole point of being there.Hmm. Well I do not rate Bosch that highly as I have had Bosch sealed tanks fail at 4 years and Neff b/in washer dryers with splitable tanks fail at 4.5 years. If the machine has been thrashed with knackered bearings expect to pay £230 for the rear half tank and about the same price for a drum ( which only comes with a new spider )….basically you are not going to win unless you get lucky. It boils down to Bosch & Co being poor quality these days. Better machine would be an Lg in my opinion but spares can and do go obsolete as do Haier spares. There isn`t really anything out there that rocks my boat. Miele are reasonable machines but can be horrendously expensive to get fixed so I would not be overly keen buying one of those either: get unlucky at it fails at 7 years badly ( which despite all the hype happens ) and that Miele that cost 800 quid ( for example ) could cost £400 to put right so now you are caught by the short ones, too expensive to scrap perhaps but too expensive to take a 400 quid repair gamble. I would consider buying the Whirlpool at 250 quid and take a gamble but not under the Maytag banner ( Whirlpool spares are however a rip off, Maytag spares are a bigger rip off! Both have sealed tanks too )……at this rate it`ll be a Curry`s Logik at 200 quid: dismanteable tank, bearings, contrary to popular belief, can be bought separate from a 83 quid half tank but not from Partmaster ( but of course! ) and the rest of the other parts are an almost reasonable price. No point buying an Indesit: 10 year parts warranty is only useful if the bearings fail – sealed tank, or the pcb fails – lap topped onsite by Indesit everything else anyone can fix way less than the £115 labour charge given most Indesits only cost circ 200 quid to begin with.
At 8 years old it`ll most likely be the motor brushes carbons worn out so check those first each carbon bit should be just over an inch long when new. If so and your machine is fitted with a Welling motor ( it`ll have a motor label ) use Indesit part number C00196539 or the pattern ones. The original brushes as far as I know are not obtainable and never were only a complete motor = lots of spons.
