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“the sealed drums seem to have a lower life span for some reason”. In the days ( from 2 months ago! )when I used to replace sealed tanks the old Bosch sealed tanks I used to dremel cut open to see a possible reason for their early demise: seems to be no grease on the oil seal = friction = premature wear = water = zapped bearings. I do not do any sealed tanks any longer due to delivery damage ( but they were not Bosch ones ). The Bosch / Neff/ Siemens machines where you can dismantle to change drums and bearings are, as Dave points out, expensive / robbery. The very last one I did was a Neff B/in washer dryer ( about 750 quid ) and it was 4 years old when the bearings went South, it was thrashed into near oblivion because the idiot kept on using it knowingly that it sounded distinctly off key and the part prices are etched on my mind : drum complete £234, rear half tank with bearings £230….£464 to the nearest pound plus labour ( embarrassingly cheap so I will not quote it ) followed by motor failure two weeks later @ £240 Neff discounted down from £270. This machine lasted 4.5 years until, you guessed it, bearing failure again, scrapped and good bloody riddance, pile of junk! Anyone reading this learn that the more you very often pay for a washing machine does not necessarily mean you will get what you think you paid for but what you will end up with is a Bosch and Co machine that is technically complex with various sensors and other junk all over the bloody joint and I have had enough of the Tom Foolery; I only do really old ones these days: but old machines = very expensive parts ( or just plain obsolete parts ) = no one gets them done = scrapped = warehouse spares are then written off because no one buys them = no one benefited = typical appliance trade = trade then flashes off its false green credentials but it is all boll*cks in reality!
I know how you feel! I had a Panasonic last week that needed a new door seal.,…obsolete. Sort of luckily (!) I managed to reposition the seal with the split at 12o/clock position but it isn`t a good state of affairs. This is pretty typical of Chinese produced goods as the parts go obsolete fairly quickily whether it be a 200 quid machine or 650 quid machine and if they do not go obsolete they can be expensive.
OOPS I forgot. If your machine has noisy bearings, which you do not mention, it can be grease coming from the worn rusty bearings either as the main cause or an additional factor. It is very common that the oil seals fail prematurely ( 2 to 3 years ) on “all makes” as the factories do not use a lubricate on the oil seal = friction = wear = water = zapped bearings.
The hole patterns on clothes leads to the the answer to your problem. Underneath the drum there will be a thin layer of sludge, on the back of the drum, as on the inside back of the plastic tank too.If you wash at 30 the temperature is too low for any deposits to come off and depending upon which 30 degree programme you are using ( typically a quick wash perhaps? ) the spin speed maybe low meaning that the clothes are less compressed against the drum holes which is why you do not seem to get the problem. This is a an ever increasing problem where low temperatures are all the rage on the premise of saving running costs ( which is peanuts! ) but the knock on affect is a zapped washing machine and can and does occur whether your washing machine cost circ 200 quid or 2000 quid domestic water softener fitted or not.
Your best course of action is 3 cap fulls of liquid lemon multi-purpose Flash run at 60 or above which you may have to do 5 times. The initial couple of times will cause you problems with a fair amount of rubbish coming off and if that is the case you just have to carry on until it all finally clears. Check your pump filter before doing anything and also the outlet pumping- under the sink nozzle not set at the wrong angle so sink water back fills into your machine!
Jet Black jelly like substance in the soap dispenser unit very common and I think this is just from the water supply, possibly magnetite ( an iron oxide ) – the only problem, as far as I am aware, is it causes is blocked up water nozzles especially the fabric conditioner nozzles.
What powder are you using and how much in quantity?
If all else fails, and someimes it will, it will be a new washing machine……best of luck with that one! PS the reviews on Logik are mixed because many reviews are done within 2 hours of unpacking the machine. The good thing about them is the tank is dismantleable should the need arise to replace bearings which is more than can be said for £850 Bosch model WAW325HOGB!.this valve via the picture has a flow sensor in the valve as well as the solenoid valves. It is probably that that is the issue. So looks like a new valve to me. Words of warning: I think from memory that the valve is one of those Chinese made Siemens/Bosch valves which cost peanuts to make ( Bosch are ripping the public off in my opinion but what do you do! ) my point is when you fit the new valve distrust it as I had one replacement fail and not shut off on tumble drying and it caused a flood. So watch the valve and if you do go away for godsake turn off the machine`s tap.
Tried to find a picture of the sump hose ( tank to pump filter hose ) for your model but cannot find one as there was a common issue on SOME Panasonics that had a 2 sump hose nozzles that were under the tank. Basically if one nozzle gets blocked-up it causes a partial vacuum stopping the water being pumped away SOMETIMES. Power off, back off and see if your model has 2 nozzles under the tank and if so that is where the problem will lie- very common. Not that easy to get at and from memory I think the machines have a plastic base to add to all the problems of access……in true lack of appliance industry forethought!!
Don is spot on. However I used to do repair work for a disabled folk concern but I am unsure as to how many people they catered for, though obviously a greater number than a large family, and they, strangely enough, had a Beko that lasted nearly 3 years. Think it went wrong 3 times but could be wrong: brushes wearing out was definitely one. Based on this admitedly scant info that was rather good value for the pennies.
Main pcboard is usually the cause of the problem from, I have to say, my fairly limited experience of Samsung. I had one not so long ago do exactly the same as you describe. The only caveat is when it went wrong the door remains locked but it your machine fails and you can open the door try a new door lock first but it could be both parts at fault though that is unlikely.
Having reached this point. Take the belt off. Then try. If the drum seems normal / spins around by hand now then investigate the motor – some motors the armature is plastic sheet coated and this peels off causing a noise – but is not a common problem. It will be unlikely that it would be the drum bearings under pressure tension via the belt. If the drum/noise is still there then probabal place something has got caught between the rear of the drum and the back of the tank possibly caught under one of the drum spider arms which can be a right bugger to get whatever it is out OR something trapped at the front of the drum / tank is far more common. So there is a starting point with your new endoscope thing.
I do not know the answer to your question! As taken from a parts list for your model. Best to check the motor brushes and if completely worn out replace them. Your best bet is to remove the motor and check BOTH as sometimes 1 will just stick in its holder and if you check 1 that`ll, of course, will be the ok one. Next point of call is / actually best check both / the main pcb in the instrument panel which, if the suppressor was a duffy, could well have blown something. The small square PCB that hangs on the r/h/side of the chassis are apt to blow up too. Might be quicker to go for a looksee there first as it is easier to get at, then the motor, then the main pcb. If the little board has blown its tracks your in no mans land: could only have been the suppessor but could be a motor fault, main pcb taken out too = scrap it because just changing the small blown board it`s likely to go bang as soon as you switch the thing on; that happened to me once!!!
A pure gamble but a logical gamble, though it is 50 odd quid part not 10 quid! ( as it should be ) and it might not cure the fault, with Panasonic anything is possible, and so that is to replace the 3d sensor with fingers x`d. Best of luck.
The machine is probably bursting into spin because it has no tacho speed control ( the magnet / generator coil at the back of the motor ) so that is either it is at fault OR a pcb fault ( probably obsolete or certainly not cheap ) OR its wires where plugged into the motor are naff. But these machines were also quite famous for chaffed wires. Follow the loom from the motor to the cable tie on the right hand side of the chassis. This is were they used to fail and since you had duff suspension it would no-doubt happen there. Just as a going off tangent note, but only from memory so could be totally wrong, there was a fuse holder with a quick blow fuse which protected the motor / main pcb and that, if indeed fitted, was within the bundle of loom wires heading off to the motor but near the pcb.
My own experience at sending away pcb`s for repair is very mixed to be honest. To be even more frank on modern circuit boards I think it is all a matter of pure luck as to the outcome. Personally I would not bother. Getting a working pcb off ebay is usually the right way to go from a professional machine dismantler company as usually a replacement pcb is equal to the cost of a ” repaired ” pcb + postage in anycase. QER calling it a day, if true is a shame, but it would not surprise me.
