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And if you need a brand new board the new module is blank = unprogrammed as far as I know. So that leads you to either calling out Hotpoint who will charge you vast amounts of money for an on-site visit or get the smart card and gizmo plug-in programmer reader = bigger bucks and economically crippling or get a second hand pcb off e-bay for your specific model they often sell for 35 quid so might be worth a gamble since the first 2 will cost you a fortune / be a fleecing. It`s a complete joke, except it is not funny; it is the terrible state of the trade I fear to be read as: ” Green ” it is not despite all the manufacturers BS.
Do you use those colour catcher sheets? Possible, because of the numerous times I have come across it, that there is something caught at the top of the black rubber sump hose. I haven`t had time to check but if you have an over sized ping pong ball in the sump hose it is supposed to be there so do not throw it away. Other than that given everything you have checked the only other thing will be the pump itself playing silly buggers which is also fairly common so check the sump hose first. You may have to take the front panel off to can access to the ” hose clip” depending upon the angle it was set at at the factory or whether you have a base plate fitted that makes a 15 min job into a 45min job such being the barmy appliance trade way of doing things in C21st..
For the poster and for anyone else. If light grey dust that is usually a loose or broken concrete weight but that is not overly common on Bosch but can and does happen but you do not give the model number only the series name: there are however several Bosch / Neff that are more susceptical than others in particular the models with the two separate front weights, usually it is the right hand side one that breaks its top bit off that then fails and gets wedged between the tank and the chassis about 4 inches in from front to back! However the dust just might have been a red herring unless looks like bits of concrete. Because the drum spider can crack causing the whole inside to go off center causing one hell of a banging noise – sounds, usually, like a jack hammer. The third thing is worn out suspension which is pretty common on Bosch ( and other brands that also use the same suspension legs – bought in parts ) caused by a towel load going way out of control within the drum and the whole tank unit whacks the side chassis of the machine with a loud bang and the whole machine can dance forward but without the flare and grace of an Argentinian doing the tango!!.
I too know the feeling only to well with an infamous Smeg / Bosch washer dryer. The actual fault was interesting by way of how it fails. The expensive door seal rubber had been damaged due to friction burning, that was obvious, as the drum had rubbed the on the door seal or it could have been caused by something getting caught and that is what I first thought. Customer could shine no light on the subject and was typically vague as vague can be. To cut to the chase, the drum spider had not cracked where a drum spider normally cracks which is obvious when the whole plot is dismantled. It was cracked right under the drum `s shaft where the shaft is heat set in the aluminium casting, very difficult to see but none the less that was the problem. To make matters worse the drum dropping only happened with certain types of sizes of loads and there was no loud knocking noises you would normally get when a spider cracks, and neither did the drum, when spun by hand or on spin empty, look the tale tale buckled bicycle wheel effect…..all good fun?
If it not the pump. Just a thought! Is this the Bosch washer dryer that is made in China ( PRC ) like the Siemens version so about 3 years old? Have had one once when the dryer inlet valve does not shut off when the machine finshes on the drying cycle BUT DOES eventually shut off after about 10 mins, drip, 5secs, then drip again ect…. The valves are not cheap to buy ( though they really should be ) so you might want to prove this first by being around at the end of the drying cycle and turn the tap off and then immediately take your stuff out to try to prove the point. I got in a hell of a mess trying to sort the wretched one I had to repair until it occured to me because inlet valves do not normally screw-up in that fashion, usually they just drip feed into the machine forever until you turn the tap off.. If you do prove this be wary of the new replacement valve`s longlivity as my customer found out the hard way when the pox ridden new valve filled up the machine during the night on day 2 for no apparent reason and she got somewhat moist the following morning, every new valve should really be sold with a free snorkel!……horrible contraption ( though not as bad as their dishwashers )…..never worked on one again as I refuse to.
What to look for when you get / if anyone else get`s this problem: when you remove the filter get a small thin but longish screwdiver and place the end of the driver in the middle on the pump`s impellor to woggle the center, any side play left to right by about half a mm+ = the pump has had it, basically the pump`s bearing is nuked. Sometimes they can pump out with no problem sometimes they refuse. A very commonly seen Bosch pump fault that one.
Looking from the front of your machine. If you laid the machine down on the right hand side in order to get at the pump which is on the left hand side you may have got some water going up into the pressure switch which for some strange reason has not gone back down its thin pipe. If you disconnect this pipe and blow back down it may well clear any water. Problem might be in the actual p/swt itself. DO NOT BLOW INTO THE P/SWT just let it naturally release any potential water by gravity by waiting an hour or two then reconnect the hose and then retry the machine.
Well the bit on the door is called the hook but that should not move. The electric lock ( the part behind the front chassis front ) could be suspect. Are you sure that the door hinge is in seated in the chassis front cut out holes that the door hinge seats down into before the screws are fitted through the door hinge?
“I’ve seen on espares that a heater pump complete is £150!” Yes it is steep but that is E Spares for you. The real reason, in this case, is that Bosch/Neff/Siemens dishwasher element / motor = heat pump are apt to miserably fail again….and again after that. Dreadful stuff and utter rubbish. The last straw when I repaired dishwashers was on a built-in Bosch where the heater unit lasted less than 3 minutes until the dreaded house trip pinged off. You have been warned but maybe you will get lucky..
Go for it now you know the facts of the matter and that you are under no illusions. The only machine that is better, as a general comment, is a VZUG Adora series but that ain`t hundreds they are thousands and you are stuck to their service since there is not a single part listed via part ware houses = very exclusive and elusive stuff bought by big shots and the elite but common in Switzerland and Europe. The 900 quid Vzug as far as known is a re badged Maytag / Whirlpool at a high price. Make of this what you will.
Yep. Miele are gooid but will cost you a fortune if it screws up and they do like everything else out there. If you are interested in Miele look up the parts costs and weep!. My own take on dishwashers is that practically all of them are rubbish! You might as well rush out down to Curry`s and buy an Essentials free stander for £189. 480 odd thumbs up on the reviews, bargain, but expendable should the worse come to the worse. I do not recommend Bosch dishwashers as they almost cost me my company with new replacement parts failing, very dissapointing cra*. Indesit and Hotpoints are dire. Beko entry level are passable. AEG, Zanussi, Electrolux, J Lewis are all the same folks are, I suppose reasonable so long as you do not go for anything elaborate/ trying to be clever models.
Call it a day man! I can tell you: the bearings are size 6305 and 6205 oil seal 35x62x10. That is the easy bit and cheap bit. The original drum with spider ( that is the bit we all assume is cracked ) is obsolete but there is a Baumatic equiv via partmaster 2923962pm at 216 quid and a wait. The tank seal part number is 1692549pm at 23 quid add this up and the hassle = new machine. If your next question is what to buy I wish you the best of luck there. In my opinion practically everything is challenged one way or t`other but at 300 quid a Zanussi Lindo 300 series is a good`ish bet but out of warranty the spares are not cheap and it has a sealed tank so you cannot change bearings. The only machines that I personnally see that you can are Chinese and Korean made and Vestel efforts which are cheap to buy but have an iffy spares back-up and they are not cheap relative to the cost of the machine and perhaps Ebac made in UK of which little is known and a splattering of Bosch products with rip off spares prices should you falter in the future. Cheery isn`t it.
