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1) could be preset spin re progromme settings i.e. if you set 1600 spin on wool it is bypassed automatically to a lower spin speed to save you cocking up your clothes? But you do not say what programme you set it on. If set on a cottons it should spin at, in your case, 1600 but like the wool example it might not on synthetics. 2) might sound odd to you but not surprised as that is how a lot of modern machines tend to work now but it is true to say I cannot guarantee that on your brand new never worked on one yet machine. 3) H2O over sensitive so just like a 700 quid Neff water warning light coming on sometimes, complain or ignore it 4) “Manual actually asks you to turn water supply off when not in use on a plumbed in machine. Are they having a laugh.” No they are not having a laugh they and most other manufacturers always recommend doing this, afterall for all they know you could be swanning off on holiday bumming around for 4 weeks….want to take a chance 4000 miles from home?.Want to get back home and need that snorkel and those flippers? Obviously got a problem with their water valves.- no they haven`t or rather no more than anyone else would have.
You give the sarcastic impression that you hate this machine ( which may well be justified ) if so go and complain to your retailer or write with pen and paper to Hotpoint first outlining your concerns and address it to the technical dept and hopefully you might not get a load of drivel as a response, but read your “destruction” hand book first afterall you do not want to be stung for a call out should you want to call them out if there is nothing actually wrong with it which is your main reason for your post which is an understandable point. Trouble with that is at 3 weeks old ( when you first posted ) I will not have seen one yet, I still have not seen one yet ( and probably won`t for several years ) and I would think no body else would have either even though it is now mid March. So what happened? Do tell.,Old post. The most common problem with E03 when IT ISN`T a failed pump or blockage is strangely the wash heater to earth ( which it probably will not take out the trip ) which back feeds to the pcb and typically causes the machine to fail on any of the rinse programmes leaving the machine in a half pumped out machine state flashing up E03. Unless you have a megga tester your floundering and yes, the heater terminal to terminal would read that but it is terminal to earth you need to test and a normal test meter, unless lucky, will not show anything is amiss. For the price of a new element just order one fit it and try it. Very common on Hoover and Candy machines that the element goes to earth and causes the described problem.
A water circulating pump problem at 50 mins remaining Something caught in the circulating pump. Via video the noise continues when the drum has stopped tumbling the only possible thing that could be moving and a grooving is the circ pump.
Hi Matt. 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure the heat pump ( that is a heater/motor as one unit ) has gone u/s. Very very common problem ( and Bosch know this but will not admit it ) and can be soon repeatable ( on 8 different models ) which is why I gave up, in the end, all dishwasher repairs as a replacement Bosch heat pump lasted just under 3 mins until it blew the trip and that was the final straw. Jump onto Bosch uk spares site, type in your model number but you are missing 2 numbers at the end of SMV40C30GB/?? find the part see how much it is, weep a lot then complain like hell, but nicely, to Bosch. If it is any consolation Hotpoint and Indesit d/washers are just as much a load of cr*p as Bosch / Neff / Siemens. The least trouble I ever had was with Pro Action, some Kenwoods and entry level Beko = the less you pay the more reliable the appliance; strange old world mind you if you were looking for any glimmer of any sense you will seldom come across it in the domestic appliance trade!
” But cant say ive heard good things about beko reliability with inlaws calling the the skoda of the appliance world (i assume when skodas was rubbish lol) ” Skodas were never rubbish pre 1990 having come in the top 10 placing in rallies both in the RAC UK rally and numerous ones within the what is now the CIS. They were good cars pre 1990 as were Ladas and could wipe the floor with imperialist Western efforts. Long live pre 1990 Skodas and Soviet made cars: when The Wall came down, and deluded tratorious East German citizens bought second hand BMW and wretched Audis which were clapped out and mega expensive to repair ( having made East German money worthless overnight ) they soon found out that Wartburgs were good 2 stroke cars as were the earlier Saab versions; all were a triumph of Soviet based and revoluntionary Socialist thinking and it was all thrown away for want of a beefburger and a fizzy drink from the evil USA where there is little or no free health care for their citizens; they must have been crazy..
£119.99 as per their site on i/net. Not sure how they got 150 quid unless it has suddenly gone up or they are swamped with a back log of work and it is a put off either way as a bit of advice if under this parts only warranty and the machine gets somewhere near the end of this “10 year freebee parts warranty ” it is cheaper in the long run to just scrap them and buy another new machine. The only reason you would ever want to call out Hotpoint or Indesit at less than 7 years old is if 1) the bearings fail,2) the front weight decides to fall off the tank 3) the pcboard fails as every other fault e.g. grubby door seal, will not pump out,will not fill should not cost anywhere near 120 quid if done by an independent repair person least in my view.
Well I phoned up Miele`s sales Dept on Thursday ( rather than Monday ) and they told me that right across the board their machines do NOT have sealed tanks = bearings can be replaced. Aris: Now they tell me that their tubs have always been sealed. I point them to bearing plus seal kits for sale online – they say those are fake ” Now the situation is somewhat even more confused In the reply to Aris did Miele mean yes of course our tanks are sealed so THEY DO NOT LEAK and fake bearings comment could have meant those bearing kits for sale on Ebay for 30 quid are pattern parts = ( in Miele`s eyes ) fake parts.
I give up just going around in circles.“I mailed Miele about this. They told me they are all sealed now. I’m at a loss – what do I buy when my current machine packs up?” Everyone is seemingly rather quiet at responding to this revelation and if true, and I will check on monday, that is a turn around so if true the part would noi be inexpensive and so based on that there would be no point buying a Miele any longer would there? To answer this chap`s question I cannot recommemed much these days but here goes as what has a dismantable tank so bearings can be changed: Lg, Samsung – the last one I did no one had the off beat oil seal size in stock except a chap in Latvia – Samsung for a multibillion pound company their spares set-up is crap!, Some upper range Bosch and Siemens but the cost of the parts if well hammered is going to be costly especially if the machine is a built-in machine – I do not like Bosch machines, ( and their newer dishwashers are utter rubbish ) Turkish made Vestel machines, e.g. Royale, Pro Action, White Knight, Luxor and a whole load of others, spares fairly expensive for often cheaply bought machines beware of getting ripped off especially from Partmaster. You can get the bearings they are industry standard size the oil seal from a bearing factor too. Chinese made :Currys Logik you can rebuild, says on partmaster rear half tank only listed ( typical Partmaster!! ) but that is kriptonite as you can get the bearings as standard sizes, depends upon what model as know for a fact that an Amica oil seal is used on Logiks too – always try e-bay because I have seen kits made-up on that site. some Amica, Haier, Russell Hobbs, Haus. There are still a fair few machines that you can still change bearings but whether in the so called same league as Bosch is up for debate
How did you get on? If you are still stuck send us all here your pnc product code to help identify your machine having typed in your model on the AEG spares website that model you state brings up nothing. How old is your machine?
Well if you are 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure that the chimes cannot be disabled, because I have not checked that it can be ) the only way to regain said chimes is to buy a new pcboard at £160 odd quid. Still interested? Thought not, and that is very sensible. Your model is either Chinese ( PRC ) or the Thailand made machine product code 914579833/00. Spares are a complete rip off for your model; so that can be read as typical Zanussi as well as AEG and J Lewis. As a suggestion I would just carry on and ignore ” the problem “.
Sounds like a bra wire that has got caught between the rear of the drum and rear of the tank and is therefore part wedged under a spider arm .. But could be a motor bracket problem as already mentioned or a cracked weight or even more likely a cracked chassis weld also have a good look under the suspension legs lower chassis mountings for cracks.
Machine was scrapped and I never got to the bottom of the problem but I`m pretty sure it was the pcb.
Had a look at that post but it was never finalized perhaps the chap gave up? ( I know the feeling well! ) Had a look at an on-line “destruction manual” via Bosch site and there is no child lock unlocking function as far as I can see. Got a feeling there is no reset method on this model. Did try the set one click anti clockwise set and hold but that didn`t cure it yesterday as well as the standard / common one with various button combinations failing not having a spin button. Going back there today to have another look. Did have pcb off yesterday to see any nuked triacs but none seen damaged but that does not mean that they or 1 is not it just that visually there appears to be nothing apparent.
