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Had another couple since then. Yes I can confirm that bearing failure is due to no grease on the oil seals. Anyone with this premature failure I suggest they contact their retailer first. If they then pretend no speaky English contact your trading standards and then Bosch/ Neff/ Siemens whatever other make you have. Enough is enough the public are being ripped off.
welcome to the modern world were we scrap machines because the manufacturers charge to much for spares or only sell it as a sealed unit.
This all has a carbon price to pay but unless enough people complain or legislation is forthcoming from the EU etc then things wont changeDave.
Well said BUT. With the EU right to repair there are several points that have been over looked 1) there can be no spare price fixing under EU law ( and neither should there be ) so saying that we could now fix our now dismantleable tanks and change the lowest grade aluminium alloy bearing spider, drum and bearings will all end up not worth one jot!! 2)The manufactures will make buying the new parts so expensive and no-doubt all the other allied parts that you would have to be bloody crazy to even think about repairing your machine an example of this is presently Miele or AEG: anyone who says these do not fail prematurely is being somewhat economic with the truth some spiders only last 7 years ( AEG record stands at 4 years before the bearings failed – what was worse was it was a 3 person household ) though like anything else the more low temp washing that is done the bigger the chance of a rotted out bearing spider. Having cut plenty of plastic sealed tanks in half to see the oil seal all the premature failures I can put down to no or little grease on the oil seals = premature wear = zapped bearings.
There are presently loads of machines where you can replace bearings, drums, spiders, and these machines are: EBAC, Curry`s Logik and other Chinese made machines such as Midea and Haier, Samsung ( and you may well have to sooner than you`ll think, best of luck with that ) LG, all the low priced Vestel machines, Atlant from Belarus, whether you want to or can afford to do it is a / soon will be a different argument. Catch these things early enough with nuked bearings and then the drun shaft will not be ruined. Bearings are about 6 quid or less each and the oil seals less than 10 quid. The most common bearing sizes used in this industry are 6204 6205 6206, 6305 6306 or 7 all very common the problem is the oil seals are not often common sizes e.g Samsung.Hi Dave. Well strictly speaking I am still in the trade but on the other hand I am more or less retired now. Since the esteemed site was updated I cannot seem to get on to the trade site hence my postings here.
Thanks for info and yes I arrived at that part number too the click click type switch was my memory failing!! New i/lock was fitted and the machine seemed to have worked ok for a couple of weeks but I cannot be sure that that is in fact the case. But now back to square one again. Anyone got any ideas please I am stuck. The only thing other than the dryer heater which had not gone to earth is the main pcb playing about but I am loathed to change it only to discover that too does not fix it.
OR. the commutator has a raised / damaged segment which would give you a low to definite clicking noise and usually green and blue flashing sparks ( depending upon how bad is bad! ) the latter you can possibly get when everything is ” ok “.it is just that the new brushes, as already mentioned, have not been run in yet so could swing either way. If the former or latter this could take out the motor and also the pcboard so beware.
Fairly common that the fill matrix behind the left hand side panel gets a limescale blockage around the internal, I think, blue comma shaped insert you should see through the semi transparent unit near the top. Remove and catch any water with a towel as being removed, turn it upside down and try to blow down where the valve pipe`s nozzle was fitted, any restriction is the cause. The cure is to buy a bottle of Kilrock descaler and pour SOME of it down that nozzle with a dry cloth or wear rubber gloves and if you look very closely you should see it fizzing = limescale present. leave in a w/up bowl for 5 minutes, drain out the Kilrock, clean nozzle of acid residue and blow rhtough to test. Be very careful of Kilrock: eyes mouth & fingers, beware, nasty stuff but this is how I clean out limescale from these matrixs.
A very slim possibility that the pressure switch is at fault despite E52 being concerned with motor/speed problems. looked up the p/swt and it shows up as one of those blue/black linear p/swt ( which are not very good and do not blow into the thing they are not like the older mechanical diaphragm p/swts but you could try blowing down the thin hose into the air chamber for a blockage ) and the reasoning behind this suggestion is although the machine fills and cuts off at x level when the machine pumps out and attempts a distrubtion of clothes revolutions it gives up because the p/swt will not pressure reset to zero either due to a blockage in air chamber or it itself is faulty. Could of course be a roral wild goose chase but just a thought. But true it sounds more like a faulty out of balance load chip on the pcb = no spin though it is not a common problem as far as I know.
Thanks everyone. Has been awhile now and has never gone wrong since so it proves it was the pcb jerking around.
Chaffed tank to dispenser hose – fairly common on Lg. Water runs down the curvature of the tank and drips at 6 o/clock position between the front and rear tank half seams giving the impression that the tank seal is the culprit when it isn`t.
To be blunt who cares? What is more interest to you is that your new pride and joys drum bearings do not fail after a few years – your machine is fitted with a sealed tank and on current experience I find failure may well be on its way at 2 to 3 years time though crystal balls are not renowned to be at all effective at predictions! Seriously, please keep us all updated on future developments.
That was not a recommendation, I never recommend anything. The Chinese built Logiks, though the drums and bearings can be removed / repaired I agree that might be happening sooner rather than later, there again you can say that about Samsung at nearly 3 times the price. Logik, which I do a fair number suffer from lack of oil seal grease, in other words the seal gets premature friction worn but it is an easyish fix. The best grease to use is white boat/ship propellor grease, 1 finger gobs worth around the silver spider hub and the same around the oil seal.
