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Re: Neff/Bosch s51e50x1gb/01
Usually a poorly fitted decor door panel pulling the door out of line or the dishwasher cabinet askew in the cupboard fitting. It can also be the decor door hitting the outer cupboard carcass before the door is completely closed. These machines use a magnetic door switch and a catch that sometimes allows the door to open slightly on the hot wash or rinse….. the pressure can be just enough to push the door open the critical amount. Shut the door and it resumes – usually never repeating when you need it too. 😳
Cure – adjust decor door or cabinet to get a really positive click when the door shuts. The door also mustn’t foul on the cabinet sides. If that still doesn’t correct it then new catch assembly (under lid) or mag sensor inside door (where every other dishwasher has a time proven latch and microswitch unit).HTH,
Steve.
Re: Belling Ch601W – visor cap ends
Cut’n’paste this to your browser……
http://www.bellingspares.co.uk/cooker-hood/capend (then click on the first result down)
Hopefully that’s what you want! And stock as well!
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Bosch D/W ‘check water’
E25 is faulty drain pump; E21 is blocked or restricted heatpump, E01 is faulty PCB. I have had some spurious fault codes when the wash motor is failing; E21 and E24; E25 can also manifest a ‘check water’ signal; all could be linked….. prob. wash motor.
It’s the E01 that is the scary one……Steve.
Re: Bosch WKD28350GB dying… should i save it?
Sounds like the drum spider has broken – you will notice this as the drum will turn “off centre” to the door gasket edge and jam. If this is the case, then the drum and spider is only supplied as one assembly and is £230 in a box from Bosch. Drum change is not a job for the faint hearted – requires complete strip and rebuild of the machine and its viability will depend on the condition of the outer tub (is it scored or damaged in any way). If the drum turns concentrically, then there is probably a foreign body between the tub and drum. This could also cause the drum paddles to detach…… 😉
The final problem is bearing failure. Most failures will happen over several weeks or months until you get a noise akin to a helicopter in your kitchen but if you have left it that long then the bearings may well have seized and will require the spider change as well (see above).
You are strongly advised to seek the help of an engineer who will be able to ascertain exactly which fault you have. The Bosch is not a bad machine; they are just not as good as they were. But a shame to throw it out without knowing for sure……Re: Zanussi D/W hinges?
These are not too bad Jim; bit fiddly that’s all. If the door opens and closes squarely and just the spring is missing then it’s a straightforward fix – I’ve never needed a new spring or hinge for one of these – the old spring will always break at the lower ‘hooked on’ end. The other end ‘screws’ into a fish plate that goes over the pivot pin on the hinge tensioner lever.
To access this – tip machine back; plinth off; plastic drip guard off; spring will probably be on the floor (right) or behind the salt compartment (left); magnet tool retrieves this.
The end hook of the spring fatigues and snaps off – to remake loop insert a long screwdriver in the spring and hook the last turn with another screwdriver. Bend the loop to about a 60 degree angle; no need to cut off the raggedy bit of broken spring as long as you get a good loop. Put a strong long zip tie or strong wire / strimmer cord through the loop but don’t pull it tight or tie it tight, tie it as a generous loop that you can get a good hold of. Now the fiddly bit……..
The pivot will be up where the hinge assembly is and will usually need coaxing down. Sometimes you may need to remove the screws that hold the front frame to the side panel. Wedge the two slightly apart and the hinge ‘end on’ can clearly be seen. Holding the hook end feed the spring up next to the hinge and hook the fish plate on to the pivot pin. Holding the zip tie, pull the spring down onto the hook on the hinge. Once it is in place, cut off the tie. Refit aforementioned parts and job done! Fiddly but not difficult. I’ve always repaired them like this; never had a recall.Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: Homark 0-700401/1 oven Minute minder
Is this a 2hr analogue timer? Put “analogue oven timer” into Connections and there is quite a few to choose from. Also Connect 5031680256321 Delonghi timer may fit the bill. Maybe a little adaption required but that’s what we’re good at in this trade!
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Bosch doorlock
Ring them and make them an offer – it’s not like their going to have a run on them! I’ve been surprised in the past – it works sometimes……
Steve.
Re: Bosch doorlock
kgasupplies.co.uk seem to show one in stock. Price is a bit eyewatering though…. 😮
HTH,
Steve.
Re: AEG Favorit F55010 VI not heating up
Low insulation on the heater or PCB in that order. If you have a 500V insulation test meter then an insulation integrity test of the heater disconnected is the first thing to do. A normal multimeter will not find it. For information, the motor pulses as it is a tacho controlled unit that checks the head of water available before starting the wash cycle. A ‘no heat’ issue doesn’t generate a fault code on these; but the cycle will be longer.
Re: neff s51 drain hose replacement – help please!
Air break (anti syphon) has to come off – unscrew vent inside and lower nozzle and pull away far enough to pull hose out. Fit new hose (only a genuine item will fit properly) and be sure to remove all traces of water from the base tray or the machine will not work.
Power off, plug out before investigating! :plug:
Re: Hotpoint Aqualtis AQ9L29I Advice on Spin Characteristic
On many newer Hotpoints the pump comes on only when there is a certain level of water in the sump to pump out. If the machine has drained down to scavenge level, the pump will be cut and then as the spin starts, the sump refills and the pump is switched back in. You need to do the pressure switch reset procedure (see Jim Iadom’s sticky at the top of this forum) as even leaning the machine back or cleaning the filter out will screw with the PCB. The analogue pressure switch has to be ‘re-calibrated’ using the reset method otherwise you will be chasing your tail. Filling the machine normally on a cycle without resetting it first will further confuse things. The pressure switch hose could be holed or the bottle partially blocked – check both as well.
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: Bosch Dishwasher Water in Base
I’ve managed to crack this problem; done loads; discovered the issues; fixed them……..none come back…all reported working OK. Machines will never leak on short cycles. They will only leak on the hottest longest wash (70 degree intensive) 15 minutes before the end of the cycle. That’s why leaks seem to be impossible to replicate on short test. The cumulative effect of several cycles will eventually trip the safety float switch. 😡 If you want to find the exact location of the leak, remove the plinth, panel behind, both sides and put folded kitchen paper across the entire base tray (easy to do) and run it on 70 intensive – it will leak from the rear left side 90 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time.
Leak location 1. The leak will be on the air vent coming through the left side of the machine.
Drain down and remove all water from the sump and salt compartment. Remove body panels. Remove the air chamber (left side of machine) and clean the vent and lower nozzle (goes through the side of the tank near the salt cap). Reseal with heatproof silicone; the same stuff used for cooker door glass bonding. On inspection, the vent seal is the main culprit as it sits in between the chamber lip and the pressing hole in the stainless tank. It can move around and is rarely tight; in fact any amount of vent tightening will not stop it leaking. To fix it – run a small bead of silicone around the neck of the vent on the plastic chamber and set the seal into it. Then run a further bead around the outside of that seal. Don’t forget to put a token spread around the lower nozzle seal as well. Refit, tighten both the vent and the nozzle – no more leaks.
Leak location 2. Leaks showing around sump joint. Sump screws are always loose.
This loose fitting of the sump can lead to leaks on long hot washes.
Tighten all four screws in a diagonal pattern. It is not unusual to get 3/4 of a turn on each; but don’t force them. Then test with paper in the base tray. If it still leaks, new sump required. The place for leaks on the sump is usually around the diverter valve location; push a slither of paper on top of the ridge above the diverter to detect any water.Leak location 3. Leak showing down the back of the machine from the tank to plastic base joining seal. Seal groove opens up around the back and sides – invariably seeps water into base tray.
These machines were the stainless steel tank and grey plastic base moulding types with the groove that the tank sits in. The screws at the rear corners and on the frame are always loose. A good repair of the joint seal can be made by thoroughly cleaning out the groove and filling it with heatproof silicone (same as mentioned above) smooth with a wet soapy spatula, pressing it in as you go. The air chamber will have to be removed to fully seal the left side of the tray joint; reseal the chamber as above.
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: Stailess Steel Paint for Plastic Oven Handles
Only problem with exhaust paint is you need the heat of an exhaust (350 – 450 degrees) to cure it – or it’ll all come off on your hands. Use plastic bumper primer to key the surface and then some engine enamel suitable for bike engine blocks – that should be up to the job; shiny as well. Brake caliper paint might also do…….
Steve.
