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Re: Bosch WAQ243D0GB/09 door lock problem.
Tried the above but still can’t see why it doesn’t work……. help!!
Thanks for the replies…… any more info / known problems with these doors?
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint IWDE126(UK) Door lock issues.
Plugged on and off in all combinations – module, new motor, both thermistors, drier and water heaters, disconnected and reset the water level on the pressure switch; changed the door lock; wired out the suppressor, checked wall socket for problems (all OK)………
STILL LOCKS THE DOOR when the ‘On’ button is pressed; flashes F6 and won’t release the door until the plug is pulled. 😡 😡
Frankly had enough of this :poo: machine. Staring to think that maybe the paintwork maybe faulty as I’ve tried everything I can think of……WTF is causing this fault??
Any pointers?? Apart from an axe, skip, throwing off a cliff or :fire:HELP!!
Steve.
Re: Bosch WAQ243D0GB/09 door lock problem.
Thanks for the reply, electrofix.
No wear or strain showing – the door opens against a wall so cannot go back enough to strain the hinge. Peg locates exactly central into the lock aperture……… I can’t see what’s wrong here.
Any BSH engineers can help?Steve.
Re: bosch heat pump
Agree with NomadPaul. After having loads of problems with these dishwashers I have come up with several solutions to crack these problems; discovered the issues; fixed them……..none come back…all reported working OK.
Machines will virtually never leak on short cycles. They will only leak on the hottest longest wash (70 degree intensive) 15 minutes before the end of the cycle. That’s why leaks seem to be impossible to replicate on short test. The cumulative effect of several cycles will eventually trip the safety float switch. If you want to find the exact location of the leak, remove the plinth, panel behind, both sides and put folded kitchen paper across the entire base tray (easy to do) and run it on 70 intensive – it will leak from the rear left side 90 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. Never had a heatpump leak; always been a leak from elsewhere.Leak location 1. The leak will be on the air vent coming through the left side of the machine.
Drain down and remove all water from the sump and salt compartment. Remove body panels. Remove the air chamber (left side of machine) and clean the vent and lower nozzle (goes through the side of the tank near the salt cap). Reseal with heatproof silicone; the same stuff used for cooker door glass bonding. On inspection, the vent seal is the main culprit as it sits in between the chamber lip and the pressing hole in the stainless tank. It can move around and is rarely tight; in fact any amount of vent tightening will not stop it leaking. To fix it – run a small bead of silicone around the neck of the vent on the plastic chamber and set the seal into it. Then run a further bead around the outside of that seal. Don’t forget to put a token spread around the lower nozzle seal as well. Refit, tighten both the vent and the nozzle – no more leaks.
Leak location 2. Leaks showing around sump joint. Sump screws are always loose.
This loose fitting of the sump can lead to leaks on long hot washes.
Tighten all four screws in a diagonal pattern. It is not unusual to get 3/4 of a turn on each; but don’t force them. Then test with paper in the base tray. If it still leaks, new sump required. The place for leaks on the sump is usually around the diverter valve location; push a slither of paper on top of the ridge above the diverter to detect any water.Leak location 3. Leak showing down the back or sides of the machine from the tank to plastic base joining seal. Seal groove opens up around the back and sides – invariably seeps water into base tray.
These machines were the stainless steel tank and grey plastic base moulding types with the groove that the tank sits in. The screws at the rear corners and on the frame are always loose. A good repair of the joint seal can be made by thoroughly cleaning and drying out the groove and filling it with heatproof silicone (same as mentioned above) smooth with a wet soapy spatula, pressing it in as you go. The air chamber will have to be removed to fully seal the left side of the tray joint; reseal the chamber as above. Tighten the frame screws and reassemble.
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: Bosch WAQ28461GB/01 Bearings
I tried to source a seal for a similar washer drier a couple of years ago with no success. The bearing supplier said there was lots of Chinese special sizes and said Bosch probably had the seal made specially for that application. I ordered a seal that matched the dimensions and it lasted 4 months. Ended up fitting a new rear tub half after all.
Miserable strip down job on these anyway so only aim to do it once.
Been there, done that…………….(so you don’t have to).HTH,
Steve.
Re: Dishwasher keeps stopping. SBV65E00GB/75
The door hinges have been bent due to the failed springs letting it drop. The door then becomes “hinge-bound”; this means the door is ‘shut’ but there is constant pressure from the hinges pushing it outwards. When the wash starts, the pressure of the water on the top basket rotor combined with the hinge pressure pushes the door open slightly. The catches on these newer BSH dishwashers have a magnetic switch so as the door moves out a couple of mm’s it will disconnect the switch; shut the door manually and after a while (usually when it’s heated up) it will open again.
First check the door alignment. Assuming the springs / cables are back in place, see if the hinge cable plastic ends reach their limit of travel before the door is fully closed If they do, the hinge is bent. The screws on the hinges can also be forced oval around the screws. Tap that all back into shape and tighten the hinge screws. If still hinge-bound, try to bend the hinges back with a large socket (tall) placed under the hook part of the hinge and braced on the plastic base. Gentle firm pressure pushing down on the door and inwards at the same time should gradually bend it so the gap up the side of the door becomes parallel. If the fault still persists, first change the door hinges, then if necessary the lock and then the magnetic switch but usually fixing the hinges cures it.
HTH,Steve.
Re: Hotpoint condenser drier mods info please.
Not quite what I was asking Ken……
The customer has had the machine modified last month and the heater safety stat has tripped out already – machine spotlessly clean and no evidence or reason for it to do so. My question was kinda cryptic as the customer insisted the engineer was there for 20 mins only and the back panel date stamp matches the internal parts dating. She is sure the rear end wasn’t changed, hence my question. Is the rear panel changed on these or are they cleaned up and refitted? The pop rivet is in place and the green spot sticker is on it so it has been modded.
I can find the stat kit for this machine (C00306861) but is the heater that Connect show these stats fitting a ‘before mod or after’ unit?
They had rung Hotpoint as they considered that the drier heater shouldn’t fail one month later; Hotpoint weren’t interested and offered a chargeable call to fix it. Then I get a call….. just want to be sure that fixing it isn’t going to cause any issues; or am I worrying too much (as usual!)Steve.
Re: AEG F77012W0P dishwasher E20 mystery.
Pressure sensor chamber on the sump was cleaned on visit and seems to have sorted it. Thanks for the replies and the tech as well Mark, that confirms my suspicions! Result!
Thanks again!
Steve.
Re: Candy wash heater
ELE9580 is the one; 1950W with the NTC built in …. or the genuine version if you prefer.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: There is something stuck in my dishwasher!
boselecta wrote:
Anyone ever been called out and cleared this blockage?I’d be foxed to be honest!
“This is what has foxed it up, madam……..”
“What the fox is wrong with it?”
“Why the fox am I still working in this industry?”
I’ll see myself out………………………. 😛
Re: Smeg Int’ DW (DI 612 CA) no heat
Check the mains suppressor on Smeg dishwashers – their PCB’s don’t like the electrical ‘noise’ generated and get ‘confused’ if the suppressor has failed. The suppressor usually splits open; an Indesit or Candy terminal block type suppressor will fit no problem. (be sure to take your security bits with you – the suppressor is fixed with two Torx screws with the pip in the centre…. a sod to move without the right tool).
Also look halfway down page 3 of “Simple PCB repairs” ‘sticky’ at the top of this forum – that shows a typical Smeg PCB and what components to swap out.HTH,
Steve.
Re: remove pulley from bosch motor shaft
Pulley is not removable; they are fitted on a sprung grab collar that sits in a groove and the pulley is pressed on. Not that removal of these pulleys on driers and washers hasn’t been tried in vain over many years by the trade – new motor only if bearing is noisy. If you damage the pulley or the grooves then the motor assembly is scrap anyway as no individual parts are available. Unfortunately the manufacturer has deliberately dictated your next course of action with non – repairable parts and the disproportionately high cost of replacement spares. 😉
As Martin says, full Enr. and FD numbers required to go further with pricing new motor.Re: team4appliances
From a long list of comments on “Who called me?” website re:- team4appliances;
“Same as other comments. Said that they were going to send a letter, but when I refused to give them any further details, the chappy hung up. His name was James Henry on extension 307, apparently. He gave me their address as Team 4 Appliance, 44-50 Christchurch Road, Bournemouth, Dorset. Had a look on Maps and they appear to be a block of residential flats.”
This appears to be a scam number that usually tries to get customers to swap their appliance insurance over the phone.
Marchwood are AKA Bournemouth Appliance repairs, Poole Appliance repairs and used to be Bluvue appliances. I’m in that neck of the woods and wasn’t aware they sub’d out anything – they have several engineers AFAIK.
