Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: ISE drier CD60W cuts out.
Thanks Mark! Ordered a new relay and hope that sorts it. Also got me thinking about the Bosch condenser drier that is doing exactly the same – I posted a Tech question only the other day. Spooky if it’s the same fault on both machines.
Cheers for your help.Steve.
Re: Bosch SMS53A12GB/51 dishwasher E17 fault.
Update for reference…….. E17 is too high inlet flow rate. It appears the flowmeter and / or the module can’t cope if the inlet water pressure is too high. Turned the tap shut then on about 1/8th turn and all’s well.
Re: John Lewis JLBIDWS 1803 air chamber.
Thanks Dave – found the part number within that info you kindly supplied and it WAS on Connect under F&P…… hidden!
Many thanks again.
Steve.
Re: John Lewis JLBIDWS 1803 air chamber.
Uncletits wrote:Can you tell me where this part is on the product – it doesn’t sound familiar – perhaps a photo? I’m familiar with F&P dishdrawers
Remove the door outer and you can see on the left side the inlet hose (made of a clear rubber sort of material) comes from underneath the tub and connects to a clear plastic box, secured by a pinch hose clip. This clear plastic box is the part required.This box in turn fits to the clear plastic piping that goes round the dispenser and fills the machine.
Did a part number enquiry with Connect today – they can’t supply anything for this model.
I haven’t phoned F & P yet as they are sure to ask for a model number which being JL they probably won’t recognise anyway…… but any suggestion is welcome. I will try them if I get nowhere.Thanks for the replies!
Steve.
Re: beko DSFS1531 not draining
Probably the door wires – Beko dishwasher door looms break for a pastime.
Re: d/washer SRS43C12GB/21
rolf wrote:Thanks Steve.
I did clock it was a recall. When I activate the blue lever microswitch it will not turn the water off. Switch is OK so I was thinking must be PCB.
Thank you.Or door wiring?
Steve.
Re: d/washer SRS43C12GB/21
Lower hose from metering system to sump blocked or restrictor in the diaphragm switch is blocked. The diaphragm is the microswitch with the blue goalpost actuating lever. Carefully prise the lugs around the edge of this unit and separate the two halves. The diaphragm will be seen; remove it. There is a small clear plastic restrictor set into the switch body. Mark its position and gently tease it out with a small blade. On inspection it resembles a tiny clear bowler hat. At the end (the rounded part) there is a small pin hole – push a pin through to clear it. Press back in place, refit diaphragm and clip the two halves together again, reassemble and test.
Also be aware this is one of the dishwashers recalled for the module change (fire risk)…… check for the blue ‘R’ sticker if it has been done or see if the FD is between 77 and 85 – but you knew that I’m sure! 😉
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
Re: Bosch WAQ243D0GB/09 door lock problem.
Thanks for the reply, Wilf.
The door shuts perfectly; the door is straight, the front panel is unmarked, the boot is straight and in as new condition with no distortion. Looking at my original findings that the door needs to be in a certain position; well that didn’t seem to make any difference yesterday, so I am thinking that door position could be a red herring. He had kept the original interlock so I swapped it back in and exactly the same result – E34. What else is there left in the equation but the power module?
Any ideas?Thanks,
Steve.Re: Bosch WAQ243D0GB/09 door lock problem.
Back to this machine again…… 😡
Tried everything – alignment / adjustment / bend / fit new interlock….. just the same. I am now convinced it is the module that does not seem to respond correctly to the signal from the interlock. It may work one time in twenty.
Any further thoughts?Cheers.
Steve.
