Forum Replies Created
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aqualectric
ParticipantRe: zanussi zwf 12070
It is worth checking the motor brushes first to see if they are worn out, and the water fill valve solenoid.
Power off before any inspection starts. :plug:
Hope that helps.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Baumatic bdw15 lower spray arm not working
Solenoid operated flap type diverter valve – think Indesit d/w motor. If it is the diverter valve solenoid or the flap has fallen off inside the chamber (common), it comes as one piece with the motor £63 + VAT from Connect.
Hope that helps,
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: zanussi zwf 12070
Does it spin? Can the pump be heard running? Does the door lock? The machine not filling is possibly a valve fault but the door will lock and the pump will run first. Please confirm if the machine will do anything else……and what that “anything else” is….. 😕
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: zanussi zwf 12070
Not really – post the fault you have and we may be able to help. 😉
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: LG WM-14225-FD, electrical popping!
Diversgold wrote:Come on guys have an open mind! I joined this forum tonight after reading some rather unpleasant comments. Should I be criticised for being a degree qualified electronics engineer who can repair most boards to component level? The business I ran included advanced electronics AND washing machine/refrigeration repairs/rebuilds. Many members of the public can understand complex electronic information. Replacing capacitors and other components is basic to some of them and believe it or not, they actually own washing machines and have an interest in repairing them when they go wrong. Electronics are electronics, whether the board is in a washing machine, the EMS of a motor vehicle or a television. As for this ‘great’ manufacturers waterproof coating, there are numerous versions of this available from RS and other factors in a spray-can, so please remember that individuals of all technical abilities read this forum. My own criticism of manufacturers is that many of them do not release circuit diagrams and charge such monstrously high prices for replacement printed circuit boards, preferring to sell a new board instead of allowing replacement of a faulty component frequently costing less than 50 pence. My comment is ‘live and let live’ without being critical of others – most are trying to earn a crust, whether are able to just change a board or to actually repair it. That means not treating other professionals like idiots when you don’t know who is going to read the posting.
Spectacularly missing the point……… 😕
We cannot advise the public how to component level repair their PCB’s….we are not psychic and have no idea who reads these posts. If you are fiddling with a mains voltage appliance on which you have little or no experience or knowledge, then it would be irresponsible or bordering on illegal for us to tell people how to modify their machines with aftermarket parts. You are also assuming that these “professionals” have calibrated insulation and earth loop testers at their disposal to ensure safety and the ability to use them before and after a repair.
You will know if you have run a business that there is a requirement in HSE law which places a “Duty Of Care” on the individual or company serving its customers. If we give detailed advice and it was incorrect, or the OP made a mistake that resulted in personal injury or damage to property then no Court in the land would consider an “open mind” and the assumption that “many members of the public can understand complex electronic information” to be a reasonable defence. And we are not comfortable to take that risk, sorry.The whole point of whether someone can or can’t fix their PCB is immediately mooted by the fact that no diagrams are available. That is not our fault; we complain about it – but to be fair, if someone wishes and has the knowledge to fix it, they would surely not need to ask us. If you wish to start a PCB repair site and are prepared to take it on trust that everyone reading your advice is qualified, professional and competent, then good luck. But, on balance of probability, the three keywords in that last sentence rarely go together in the real world. It is naive to believe that they always do.
Genuine qualified people who are capable would not be offended as no offence is meant or implied. They would understand and support our position on the grounds of safety. But then anyone “Degree level Qualified” would know and appreciate that more than most……and I do. 😉
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Stinking job
Madmac wrote: drowned in liquid sh*t. 🙁
Sounds like a normal day in this trade……… 😆
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Indesit WIL123S Fault- Flashing LED’s
Sad as it may seem, this is usual for Indesit group stuff (Indesit, Ariston, Hotpoint). I see this regularly and my customers are just as disappointed. So much for the ‘green’ credentials the manufacturers blab at every available opportunity. “A” rated – the supposed holy grail of the domestic appliance world – yet on the landfill inside 3 years; sorry, don’t see the “green” in that……. 😕
See if your Indesit is covered by a 5 year parts warranty, some late machines were… it’ll cost you £104 to get the repair but it is the cheapest way out of the crisis. But be aware you are just patching up a poor product.
The better option is to quit while you’re ahead and buy something better as P45 rightly says. A washer drier is a bad choice for a family as it is worked much harder than a separate washer and drier. All the main parts are used for washing and drying so the mileage soon mounts up leading to early failure. Buy 2 separate machines if at all possible. Better choices are Bosch / Siemens / Miele or the ISE machines. Quite a bit more expensive but you won’t be posting on here again for a long time. (It has to be said that Miele are great machines but their spares pricing can be horrifying).Hope that helps,
A.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Anyone Interested In Some Work?
Interested………. 😀
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool AKZ446TX oven push button.
Thanks, Chris!!
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint brushes removal tool
75p flat blade screwdriver from B&Q heated up and bent to 90 degrees in the vice.
Also invaluable for pulling off kitchen plinths without tearing your knuckles off. 😉Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: LG DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR
£90.91 + VAT @ Connect for me. :tongue:
Try Qualtex for the stator; couldn’t find it on their site though…….
Easy job – rotor (pulley) bolt off, pull the rotor off against the magnetic force. Then unplug the loom at the stall sensor and undo the 6 bolts that hold the stator to the back of the tub.
Reassembly is a reversal of removal: just watch out when you put the rotor back on – the strong magnets can trap you finger.Hope that helps,
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Smeg D/W F8
Diverter valve seals leak regularly; they will throw the trip if the water gets on the microswitch next to the seal. I’ve replaced quite a few for that problem alone.
Hope that helps,
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: John Lewis Compressor Tumble Dryer?
Cross between an air con unit and a dehumidifier; heat pump technology is very efficient but I’m not sure that it would impress the average customer……
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WM52 motor exchange
WM52 should be using a Rast type motor plug: they have six or seven tags and the wires that come out the side of the plug. They have a Pin 1 indication marker above the position where the first wire goes in (right of the plug, IIRC). WM52 motors should be the 415 tacho type with the little metal ‘cross bar’ over the tacho coil. The wiring in the socket is (from the right to left):-
Far right tag – tacho
2nd – tacho
3rd – field
4th – field
5th – brush
6th – brush
7th – half winding for 1200 spin boost.If you’ve done an armature change and the motor still doesn’t work, check the wires from the motor socket to the brush terminal for continuity. If one lead is O/C, then the coil TOC has popped. (I think Qualtex still do replacements, or I’ve got some spare ones).
Hope that helps,
Steve.
aqualectric
ParticipantRe: AEG Electrolux lavamat turbo 16830 Door won’t open
The door catch has snapped inside the door frame.
Safety first – Power off and unplug before you start anything….:plug:
You can release the door from the inside by pulling the rubber hose off the pressure switch, moving it to one side and you can just get your arm in the gap. Push your arm down the gap and find the door interlock with your fingers – the metal door peg will be felt. Push the metal peg towards the centre of the machine and the door will open. I did one yesterday – it’s fiddly and the unlock will hurt your finger, but it’s the only way to do it.
A new catch is required – click the “Spares @” logo or “Shop @” and they will be able to supply you with a replacement.Hope that helps,
Aqualectric.
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