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Re: Hotpoint WF 321 dead.
Possibly electrical ‘noise’ stopping the board starting up. To run the machine direct with no suppression in line would be the same as no mains filter. It is common knowledge that some Smeg machines suffer from electrical interference, but I haven’t come across an Indesit product that did it….yet. Or, of course, it could simply be worn carbons or fascia PCB connections.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Smeg DWF614SS faults F8.
Hi Mark,
I must admit, I’m not completely sure how to cancel the program. On the first machine, I tried holding down the active program button (as Zanussi machines) and pressing 2 buttons in different configurations (as BSH). It seemed to make little difference as when the program ran again, it would fault F8 about 15 minutes in. 😕
What is the correct reset procedure for Smeg?Thanks,
Steve.
Re: Creda W100FW w/m drum bearings
To remove the outer race you will need the genuine Hotpoint bearing removal tool as it has special collets that engage in the channel of the outer race and pull it out. If you don’t have one, then the only alternative is loads of WD40, wait a while and then use a solid steel bar at an angle to the bearing housing and beat the…….well, hit it hard lots of times. 😉
Steve.
Re: Rangemaster 110 element.
Funny five minutes…….part on order – panic over!! Sorry!! :rolls:
Steve.
Re: AW23
Motor can be accessed by removing the lower front panel (1 screw each side, bottom front corner) and the motor bolts face you. Think plastic tank BSH with the bolt heads facing the front of the machine. Bolts out, belt off, loom unplugged, pull the motor towards you. Don’t even have to lean the machine back……. surprisingly easy…….:wink:
Steve.
Re: Zanussi Interlock?
Possibly worn carbons……or PCB if the original interlock has shorted…. 🙁
Steve.
Re: Bosch condenser drier leaks.
lee8 wrote:
Have you run a test program, it could be a temp issue or even the location of the appliance, its mentioned in there instructions about low ambient temperature and condensation build up.How do you get it into a test program? That could be useful. Also, the ambient temperature issue could be relevant as the guy is ripping his house apart and renovating it ATM. I couldn’t say if he has any heating; he certainly has no kitchen or dining room……… :rolls: I did the whole clean up by the light of a 40W bulb in the hallway…..that gives you an idea of the chaos in this house.
Thanks for the pointers,
Cheers,
Steve.
Re: Bosch condenser drier leaks.
Cleaned the condenser, the plastic moulding in front of it, the chamber the condenser goes into, the water receiver and the pump reservoir. Also cleaned all the seals and their mating surfaces. I took the side off the machine so I could do it thoroughly. When I called back, it was all dirty again of course – only went 2 weeks ago; lazy sods. The drum seal (made of a felt material) looks worn in the centre, that’s what made me suspect it was at fault, as I’ve tried everything else I could see. The display steaming up was a concern though.
Thanks Lee – but after reading the above, can you think of anything else?Cheers,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint DI450UK.C no heat
Qualtex show the first one (C00255860) as NLA; but it is superceded by C00259736. Only £19.47 + VAT at Qualtex. Same is £24.34 from Connect. Both special order.
BTW, Rob, Connect charging me £60.79 + VAT for C00255860 – where the hell did £72 + VAT come from? You’re being stitched, mate!! :snig:Steve.
Re: Bosch SGS53C02GB/08
I’ve done a couple of these Bosch dishwasher reseal jobs. Fiddly, but possible. Several attempts at the first one, the second one went without a hitch.
Remove the side panels and the clip holding the riser pipe to the back panel of the tub. Undo the front 2 screws (either side) and the rear screws (2). Then gently lift the tub off the base. I used 2 wallpaper scrapers to assist – as I separated the parts, I pushed a scraper in the slot and worked my way from front to back. Lift the tub clear. Clean off the sealant.
Clear sealant from the channel in the base. It is like chewing gum so it’s a bit fiddly. Once done, fill the channel with sanitary grade silicone. Wait for it to tack slightly (1/4 – 1/2 hr) then evenly reseat the tub onto the base and screw in place immediately. Reassemble and leave overnight to cure. I ran my first attempt too soon and it ruined the job.
Next day you can safely add some more silicone to anywhere that looks thin.Patience tester……… but possible.:wink:
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Zanussi ZWD12270W
There is a thermistor on the vent hose at the bottom of the condenser – the hose that goes between the tub and condenser. Pound to a penny the wires to it have broken off. The reason for this is the 2 orange wires are tied down so tight they break off at the plug. Relieve the wiring from the zip tie and reconnect with insulated amp tags. 😉
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Candy C514 washing machine
It could be coins in between the drum and the outer tub. They get whipped up on a wave of water on the spin cycle like mini frisbees and clatter around the tub. Or a bra wire could make the same sort of noise.
Put your hand in the drum and gently run the back of your fingers across the holes in the drum; you may be lucky if it is a wire as it may still be poking through the drum holes. Pliers to pull it out.
Coins are more involved. Check the filter for coins first: if there are some here there are probably more in the drum. Severe damage can ensue from coins – if you can’t locate what is wrong get some pro help. It is cheaper and safer than the alternative. Washing or spinning with coins in the tub could cost you a new machine. 🙁Power off before any inspection. :plug:
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint WT540
Hi, Rob!!
Check the connection plugs and crimp them up tight on the mainboard (back of the machine at the bottom.) Also tighten the fascia supply plug.
If that fails, it’s the main PCB that’s goosed.
EMW do the boards already set up to plug ‘ n ‘ play. You will need the model number (WT540) and the letters off the end of the PCB board – ICTFT is the Mk 4 PCB and ICTFCT is the Mk 8 PCB. Probably Mk 4 TBH. 😉Hope that helps,
Steve.
