Forum Replies Created
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clivejameson
ParticipantRe: W’pool ADG7540/1
Thanks for that John…
A little history to this one….the original fault was a no heat fault although the machine completed the cycle and gave no error reading so I took the belt and braces approach to replace both the ntc and then the pcb. The replacement pcb has slightly different orientation to the edge connectors including an additional space for an OWI connector. The new board immediately gives an E11 error on power-up (this fault not present on the original board)
So….i suspect the model/service number may be incorrect so any advice about similar models that may have the same pcb would be welcome…or indeed if anyone has the contact number of a techie within W’pool that may have an answer?
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: diplomatic apm8702
The motor circuitry is obviously breaking down somewhere so it’s time to get the meter out. When you’ve checked every circuit known to man you’ll probably end up having to replace the module anyway as thats where the fault usually lies i’m afraid….
Plug out at all times of course 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: URGENT INDUCTION HOB ADVICE PLEASE!
As far as induction hobs go they are really a niche market, they require specific pots and pans, expensive to buy and even more so when they go wrong! Care is needed to fit them following the manufacturers guidelines.
Having said that, most of the repairers on here will have little experience of them (because of their rarity) so reliability is something you will need to research carefully from many sources but generally speaking if you stick to a well-known big brand name you won’t go far wrong…at least you will have the assurance of guarantees and service back-up if it goes pear-shaped 😉clivejameson
ParticipantRe: W’pool ADG7540/1
Thanks Chris, that’s the new recoded part number? We ordered that one and it came through as the same incorrect one. This customer is getting jumpy having been without the machine for weeks…it transpired he’d had another repairer in who’d strung him along then done a runner and now I know why oh joy 😕
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: LG washing machine drum bearings.
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:Cabinet screws on LG are incredibly tight fitting.
Mike.Now that’s what I call an understatement! 😆 Fine if you have the driver tip to fit but these koreans seem to use something crossed between a philips and a pozi! The only bonus is the screws seem to be quite hard so if the driver slips it doesn’t wreck the head altogether 😆
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Smeg dish beeping at me!!
My hunch would be more likely an earth fault which is usually the element and sometimes the RF filter or mains block, it can play havoc with the pcb which won’t give any error codes but which nearly always survives 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Diplomat ADP 8242 – Door Stuck closed
The answer is to grab hold of anything you can at the top (plastic) of the door and pull like fury! It will inevitably break but it is broken already where it supports the latch which is why it’s stuck. The mountings for the machine if installed correctly are hidden above the facia so you won’t be able to slide it out with the facia in place anyway.
The latch itself will be worn and might break too but even if it survives I personally would recommend replacing it with the facia. The latch ‘holds’ on to a metal striker fitted to the top of the cabinet so you are unlikely to do any other damage.
Tough job which I have seen on a few occasions but thats your only solution I’m afraid 😕
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Hoover HNWF6135-80
Thanks Martin 😀
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Hoover HNWF6135-80
Thanks guys 😀
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher SGS43E02gb/35
First of all do a good search through the forums, there have been loads of posts about these…they aren’t difficult but do allow yourself plenty of time. Essentially you need to separate the tub from the plastic base to get access to the heater so you need to remove all the exterior panels, disconnect the door hinge strings (they just lift off), remove the 4 screws that secure the base.
A good tip is to use plenty of soap on the hose connections when reassembling 😉clivejameson
ParticipantRe: No earth connection on replacement oven element
Martin wrote:
The ‘rule of thumb’ therefore is that the earth lead has to be connected to a direct component earth source. If a spade earth is missing then it should be earthed via one of the 2 fixing bolts/screws instead using a suitable fixing directly on the element.
Which is totally contrary to the fitting note supplied by BSH with the new genuine element 😆
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: lg washing machine ‘le’ error code
LE relates to the motor itself, the only cure is replacement i’m afraid 😕
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: Those old red bulletins.
Yep…yonks ago the Curry’s own brand San Georgio used to airlock on the drain pump because they did away with an air bleed hose off the filter unit.
The mod?….simple….don’t fit another bleed hose, just replace the timer with a type that would pulse the pump on and off to allow the air to bleed…only about 50 separate wires to swap on a harness that was tighter than a tight thing 😕
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: smegg dwf66ss
The diverter valves are prone to blocking with a bit of broken glass which causes the gears to strip so a new one required. Base panel off and all is revealed. They do sometimes leak too which could give the E1 code 😉
clivejameson
ParticipantRe: DIPLOMAT ADP8352 BUILT IN DISHWASHER
Usually an earth fault often the heater. I discovered by accident that when trying to access the test program when it has this fault that the machine will actually run with the door open 😕
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