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Re: 3 wires on bottom oven heating element?
Logic would dictate that one side comes from the thermostat and the other is a return NOTE it is not uncommonto have a “live” feed and a “switched” return in appliances, ALWAYS UNPLUG BEFORE POKING AROUND
If you have 2 heating elements on the same circuit, yes they can be looped….or it may just be a looped return from another circuit(saves wire!)
That they’re both the same colour would suggest they have the same function.for future reference, a digital camera is the best thing to record before you disturb!
Re: WHirlpool ARC7050 (850170515001)
Sorry, I’m not a fridge engineer either, (but way back, I was a medical equipment service-engineer as well! 😛 -Air Shields)
As the freezer seems “too cold”-you can probably discount loss of gass(refrigerant)
you’re likely to find there’s a system of ducts,flap-valves and fan(s) to pump the cold air around.
AFAIK, the freezer has priority….and as it’s too cold, but the cooling isn’t diverted to the fridge section, the freezer must “think” it’s not cold enough.
I’d guess there is a thermistor controlling it ,rather than a thermostat. scan the dozens of posts on the otherthread on this make (can’t miss it it’s the biggest! )….then you’ll have a pretty good idea of how it’s put together and how it works!
Re: Hotpoint Iced Diamond RL78s – The lights are on but…
OK, Shin, you were a bit flippant with your problem, I’ll GUESS.-
the compressor isn’t running?…..It’s relatively easy to bypass the thermostat , which is in essence , just a temperature -operated switch.
Some stats have change-over terminals for defrost…..so you need to trace the circuit to make sure you connect the right pair of wires together…POWER OFF WHEN FIDDLING!….bridge…insulate…test…if motor is still dead it’s likely to be burned-out and not worth repairing the fridge.
NOT a professional fridge engineer, so don’t take this as gospel…you take notice and act at your own risk 😆
Re: Compresser won’t stop!
From my limited knowledge, I’d say it’s the ‘stat, as well.
still cools fine, so that means there’s gas and the compressor’s functioning OKthe fact you have to “modulate” it on a time-clock, means you have “spare” cooling capacity(another indicator that the gas hasn’t leaked.)
stat!- use the “spares ” link…..super rapid delivery and top-quality parts.
NO! I don’t work for them! satisfied user! 😆
Re: Miele not draining with a full load
Have you checked the drain-hose ? and the waste-plumbing it’s connected to?
Have you made sure the drain-hose actually has a high-point well above the machine’s high water-level?-this won’t stop it back-syphoning if the plumbing is blocked/restricted.
try hooking the discharge end straight over the sink and confirm that the pump is actually working!
everything you’ve said points to a restricted flow 💡 drain-hose kinked?
I am probably way off-beam, i’m not a professional….but till one comes along, you may as well ……. 😆
Re: hygena apl 8214/2
I’m wondering just why you replaced the inlet valve?
Unfortunately, wishful thinking is no substitute for METHODICAL FAULT TRACING
Plug out- check the circuit!…If the door-switch or associated circuitry is faulty, you won’t get any water in…Likewise there’s a chance of timer or control-board fault…..or a faulty/gunged-up level-sensor….(the machine thinks water’s up to level, so it won’t allow any in,-but then the cycle would probably proceed to”go through the motions”
There’s no easy short-cut that i’m aware of (but i’m not a professional repairer)
Re: Proline DWI 5212P
Please keep in touch and let us know how many days work you lose, waiting in for repairers who may not have the needed part(s) / may not show…….
OTOH, you may be dead lucky 🙂
curious why you wrote-off your old machine-was it not cost-effective to repair?
Re: No power – well most of the time
Are you sure the “grinding” noise wasn’t actually the sound of contacts arcing?
Although sockets are nominally 13 amps, the contact-area touching the pins is, IMHO marginal.
cookers(that is, ovens rated under 13 amps) on 13 amp plugs are running on the edge of reliability….a spur is better..if you want a switch-a double-pole switch of 20-40 amp rating will handle it with a good safe margin…the cost differential is peanuts.
I’d also check the main terminal block where the supply enters the appliance….ISOLATE/UNPLUG FIRST.
Re: AEG Freezer Keeps buzzing
HA! bryan did a typo, second post….I think he meant “thdoor is SHUTTING …. but the “U” on the keyboard is next…………….
I think the OP has sidetracked himself with the “Klixon” issue 😯
Laurie….that device is a thermal switch….when the motor stops, there’s no gas passing through,so residual heat could well trip it off….especially if you’ve been running it 23.55 /24.00
The thermistor is something else entirely…I’ll guess you’re looking for a thin”wire” with a little lump at the “business” end and a plug/2 connections at the other end.
Re: Schreiber APM 6321
just for the benifit of any future readers of this thread……the thermostat will probably, no, almost certainly,fit several different fridges…..each model will have it’s own mounting-method…..the replacement comes with the bits needed to fit all variants.saves having umpteen on the shelf and the last one is ALWAYS the correct variant.
The interference from the fridge door is unlikely to be affected by the thermostat, unless the doorswitch cuts the compressor/fan etc. as well as switching the lamp. (I could visualise old, burnt contacts having some HF (spark) quenching properties, but it’s highly unlikely.
In short…..parts often come with extras to cover variants
the interference is almost certainly from the lamp-switch…..open the door quicker and push it that last couple of inches closed quicker.Re: Servis M7665S fridge warm
Note! I’m NOT a Whitegoods engineer, so don’t assume this post is “informed” or “accurate” 😆
could be an”airlock”…not an accurate description, ‘cos it’s gas and not air, but the fridge compresses gas until it becomes liquid….then allows it to turn back to gas…..when you get a slug of liquid (there’s also oil sealed in the circuit) with gas bubbling through……GURGLE!
sounds like something was trapped in the circuit and it all drained to the right place when you left it unplugged.above is a highly simplified description,but gives the “gist” of how it works and the “explanation is just a wild guess 😉
Re: Samsung SR-S2028 fault diagnosis
I’m NOT a whitegoods engineer, so do not place your faith in what I say being credible 😉
You don’t say if the compressor is running/cycling either normally or abnormally.
some machines do(did?) use seperate components for each section,IE the fridge and freezer were both self-contained.
the forced-air circulation systems appear to only have one evaporator and a system of ducts/flap-valves to direct the airflow….again, generalising, the freezer gets priority , then the flow is diverted around the fridge section.
the condensation would suggest that you’re not getting any cold air(well, not cooled sufficiently to freeze!)
Investigate airflow (override the doorswitch,as the fan can be designed to stop when the door’s open )
the other possibility is that you have lost all or part of the refrigerant gas in the system….but then i’d expect both sections, (fridge AND freezer) to not get down to temp. and compressor to run continuously and mad-hot. this presupposes that you DO have one evap. to cool both halves
If anyone can also tell me where I can purchase the correct evaporator unit it would be appreciated.
presumably you meant “heater”….an evaporator change and regas would cost more than a new fr.fr. 😕
Re: diplomat apm8702 not washing properly
loose belt?
motor-brushes badly worn….won’t pass current required to turn loaded motor?
poor contacts on board-connector,= high resistance-effectively the same as above.
We are assuming here , that your description means
” the machine agitates normally when unladen-that is, it revolves, stops ,reverses,…repeat till it pumps out and spins. when i load it, it won’t agitate but will spin”my guesses …brushes ….or an outside chance that motor windings/board connections are faulty.
Re: The ‘Reason’ Washing Machine
OK, Martin…..you have a drum the depth of the cabinet, front to rear(including mountings, drive etc…..now visualise a second drum with a gap down the side…. Think of it as a “C” shaped trough that has it’s end plate mounted to the drawer front…….pull out drawer, trough-drum comes with it…..close drawer trough telescopes into complete drum fixed to back of cab.
of course, it’s desirable to have the opening at the top when you pull the drawer out……..and you don’t actually need a full drum “hidden “in th cabinet, the bit that comes out with the drawer, has to have some sort of closure to retain the load when the drawer is closed.
trying another way to explain…..get 2 toilet-roll cores(appropriate?)
that will slide one within the other…..slike a lump out of the side of one tube, going from the end, to halfway down……when they’re telescoped together, you have a solid tube, when they’re pulled apart, the gap appears and gets larger as you pull them apart……glue a disc of cardboard to either end of your “telescope” and paint with silver paint….put a drawing-pin through the middle of each disc and you have your own blue peter side-opening washer-drum.
(plenty of other ways of achieving closure, bearings, drive and support, but I’m not going to continue debating a hypothetical design……when we hear that the professionals have seen a real, working machine, there may be a real reason to use bandwidth!
wander round the supermarket shelves, you’ll see lots of cardboard-drum type packaging with pull/twist opening/dispensing ideas….just scale them up 😆
Still nothing new and only us four saddo’s chewing this bone 😈 😆
