cockney steve

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Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 381 total)
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  • in reply to: Beko or Hotpoint #274256
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Beko or Hotpoint

    Sorry, Madrat, a bit too late for you, now 🙁

    but for others that follow……. an oven is just a box of hot air…a gas flame needs a constant supply of air to keep it burning.
    burning gas produces water…..so –

    you are continually pumping hot, damp air into the kitchen…soggy salt, condensation, sweltering in summer….err forget that one 😆

    Electric ovens usually can be had that will PLUG SAFELY INTO A 13-AMP SOCKET

    sealed, energy -efficient box,+ a fast, flexible gas-hob, gives you the best combination!

    in reply to: Samsung SR S2028CVW cold water flow problem. #275081
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Samsung SR S2028CVW cold water flow problem.

    The evaperator will probably need to be relaced.

    Hi, Bryan 😀 I thought it was only your boots that you did that to 😛


    was that the “evaporator COVER” then? or is there a DIY brazing and regassing kit on fleabay nowadays? 😆 😈

    (you been at the Tesco special, or had a lot of “pop” left after Christmas? )

    in reply to: Maytag RSW2200EAE won’t start #275213
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Maytag RSW2200EAE won’t start

    You should be able to find a refrigeration engineer on the island, who will take a look…my guess is the compressor has siezed-up with standing

    If I were a risk-taker, i’d try a heavier fuse , on the basis that the house -circuit will trip if the appliance overloads to that degree…..the downside being that the appliance could let out all the magic blue smoke…..but there again, it’s not working right now, anyway, so at least i’d KNOW it was burned-out! 😈

    I am not a professional, so exercise due caution !

    Incidentally, my mother lived at Nomond Place ( #3, iirc ) many years ago, when it was new!….small world! 🙂

    in reply to: aeg lavamat 16830 E20 problem #275069
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: aeg lavamat 16830 E20 problem

    perhaps you have a partial blockage. I’d suggest you remove the pipe TO the pump and see if water flows through this OK(a kettle or saucepan to dump it in and a washing-up bowl under the pipe are a good idea.


    If OK, you could repeat with the hose reconnected and observe the output from the waste-pipe.

    If the pump is new…that eliminates fluff.elastic hair-scrunchies etc. caught round the impellor (pump still spins but produces much reduced flow.)

    that leaves the outlet -pipe…….remember that a trapped coin can act as a flap-valve and flip-over to block the flow.

    AFAIK, many machines will allow a preset time to pump-out, then carry on the cycle. so if the pump can’t clear the last lot of water….the next stage still carries on.(or you get an error code 🙁

    in reply to: AEG L64810 wash time pausing/stopping – help needed #275160
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: AEG L64810 wash time pausing/stopping – help needed

    Dry joint on the board?

    (assuming you’ve taken proper note of what P45 has told you)

    If not, ….check the motor brushes and de-gunk the pressure-system properly.

    what may SEEM logical, is not necessarily so, where appliances are concerned.

    in reply to: Teka not heating #272104
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Teka not heating

    A long shot (from an amateur as well :rolls: ) possibility your NTC is out of spec.

    RSWWW.com stocks all sorts of “bare” ones and you will be able to get the PDF’s for the tech. spec. with appropriate TEMP /RESISTANCE graph.


    Alternatively, as the relay pulls in OK, but drops out after a very brief period-is there a dry joint/high resistance connection which goes O/C with the current?


    If the relay drops out, I’d look at the “control” side, -if it stays in but the heater doesn’t work….the heater side is suspect

    in reply to: creda advance t601cw drying problem #188232
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: creda advance t601cw drying problem

    There should be no impedance….a thermostat is a switch, not an inductor 😉

    As it’s a heating device, you’d expect the thermostat to be closed,and therefore zero RESISTANCE at room temperature.


    Now wait while a professional repairer turns up and says i’m talking my usual rubbish 😆

    in reply to: Schreiber APM 6321 #270210
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Schreiber APM 6321

    You could always ask if “parts @” below this post, can get you a spare shelf

    simply put it in the last runner which clears the salad boxes…problem solved and minimal loss of storage-space 😀 ….also a lot cheaper than a new ‘fridge.

    Edit,7.36pm…..that should be “find a spare part”

    in reply to: hotpoint future rza30p freezer #273894
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: hotpoint future rza30p freezer

    It’s not a user-replaceable part….it’s the “engine” that powers the whole thing and make it cold the only other main bits are the casing and the tubes that wrap round the inside-casing and make it cold….so, it costs more to fit a new one and refill with refrigerant gas, than the thing is worth.

    in reply to: zanussi zwf 12070w washing machine tripping electrics #273759
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: zanussi zwf 12070w washing machine tripping electrics

    Usually very straightforward, but the rubber seal does swell and make the old one difficult to remove……..usually it has two plates, one inside the drum, one outside, with nut(s) /bolt(s)/stud(s) pulling them together and “squishing” the rubber against the hole.

    Before moving it , try to megger the resistance between the earth(body) of the heater and one of the terminals you should see several K Ohms at least. Anything lower is the cause of your problems (earth -leakage)

    Once you move an old heater, it’s really hard to refit and seal successfully,so check first!

    in reply to: Problem with Miele Platinum 6 Washing Machine #273119
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Problem with Miele Platinum 6 Washing Machine

    Ha! frightened it into submission 😈

    The power of Hornsby 😆

    in reply to: Whirlpool AWG 220/1 – drum not rotating #273615
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool AWG 220/1 – drum not rotating

    It’s just possible that one of the motor -bearings has had the cage collapse.

    As P45 said, the end result is to jam the motor………it MAY be possible to dismantle and fit a new bearing, but doubtful.

    I have one from my son’s machine , here…rivetted and the pulley is shrink-fitted.

    Junk! 😡

    in reply to: Smeg DWF 1.1 – Unable to start any program #259764
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Smeg DWF 1.1 – Unable to start any program

    The good news is , you saved the labour -charge, so the part was “free”

    you DIDN’T waste £150 on a PCB !


    What a good do! I hope wifey showed her appreciation 😛

    Thanks for letting us know, it helps others.

    in reply to: Proline DWI 5212P #260592
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Proline DWI 5212P

    and expect it to run for longer than the car without the need for a £200+ service every year.

    Don’t know what they charge your way, but London is over £100 an HOUR and Manchester, I’m told has REDUCED it’s rates to £80-ish …and that’s Audi, so what price the “I own the road” blue and white?

    you also forget that the first 6 month’s depreciation would buy a” top of the range ” dishwasher. (but you can’t park it on the drive to make the neighbours envious)

    in reply to: ADP4230 Diplomat Cooker #271720
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: ADP4230 Diplomat Cooker

    I can’t see it doing any harm if it’s a conventional hob, but a glass one may be a different story.

    I would have thought the output from a single ring should be adequate to cook a few puds!you could always pour kettles of boiling water in first and check the single ring can maintain it boiling….remember, all you are doing is replacing heat-loss…so a good lid and draught -free kitchen should help.

Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 381 total)