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Re: Refrigerant leak
the “diesel” smell is probably the oil that was sealed in with the gas…I’d wash or wipe the packaging with a damp loth and some detergent.
The amount involved is unlikely to pose any risk.
If you’ve unloaded the machine and unplugged it, leave the door(s) OPENIf you close it up, it’ll get VERY smelly, VERY quickly.
Re: The ‘Reason’ Washing Machine
Jim, see my last post, re- Dyson’s washer being a “dead duck” (beat you to it! 😆 )
Martin, – your faith in the commercial development process is touching but sadly misplaced.
The number of design flaws in the stuff that engineers repair every day, points to inadequate testing………. under-specced stuff ” we omitted to derate component X for an inductive load”
“the switching transients proved too great for component Y to perform satisfactorily.”
” In certain circumstances the balljoint can fail ,leading to loss of control of the car…………….
Sadly, some R&D dept’s cannot/aren’t allowed to properly test and evaluate designs before they go into mass-production…..we have all seen the resultant National Press recall-notices, where there is a threat of personal injury.
I do not believe the” Reason” machine will be flawless from the get-go. Unless you know better, I doubt there are 10 or more pre-production machines out there ,being rigorously abused by normal users.
If the man’s built it on sound engineering practices, it may well be robust, but will it price itself out of the market place.
Not so long since, we had a long thread with a guy who was convinced that the ISE 10 was overpriced because he could buy (and junk) several crap machines for less money, over the respective warranty periods.He completely ignored the aggro , waiting for parts/service (and lost holiday days) and the “russian roulette” of “am i going to get my laundry completed today”…..all that, without the superior ,quieter performance of the quality machine.
Time will tellRe: The ‘Reason’ Washing Machine
there are a couple of factories going cheap, in Wales ,at the mo.
IIRC, both Bosch (automotive alternators?) and Hoover (washers) have spare factories.
casting aside all the hype, it’s just a bit of lateral thinking it still has to be tested by “jo public ” and her hubby “joe” 😛 also it has to overcome the scepticism of folk like me and be pitched at the right price-point.For all his clever marketing of the bagless cleaner, James Dyson dropped a real brick with his washer. (though personally I think it was purely price that killed it. )
It would be nice to think that the UK could produce another world-beater, however, I predict that if it achieves any worthwhile market-penetration, he’ll follow Dyson’s lead and sub it all out to the far East.
Re: Beko or Hotpoint
The only thing I need now is a BEKO badge so it matches all the other apliances in the kitchen Laughing
shouldn’t be a problem there, just look in roadside skips 😆
Re: Dodgy SAMSUNG SRL3928B
It amazes me that folk are quite happy to throw away an appliance that’s only 3 1/2 years old
WAKE UP PEOPLE….if the “engineer” is out of his depth, it will be little more than luck if it gets fixed.FIND ANOTHER ENGINEER!…..Bryan pointed the way for Keith, who, IMO, should have cut his losses and called Bryan….problem sorted.
If the garage can’t fix a fault in your car, you seek a second opinion…..likewise if you’re ill and the GP can’t diagnose, he gets a second opinion.
-so why, oh why, do you think that bashing your head against the same brick wall will cure things
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
just to add that if you read THE WHOLE THREAD CAREFULLY…..you will actually know MORE than the average Whirlpool engineer 🙂
They just replace parts, the average independent engineer cannot afford the time to research and repair to board component-level and also risks further failures and a dissatisfied customer The new, factory board is guaranteed and doesn’t carry that problem (if it goes, it’s Whirlpool’s fault, not the engineer who tried to save you a hundred quid and is expected to do a free re-work)
Repairing your own board is a low-cost compromise. All the solid-dielectric capacitors can be inserted any way roundAll Electrolytic capacitors are clearly marked to identify the “neg” lead
(unusually, these appear to be OK on these boards.
According to the many posts on this thread, it’s the “solid” (polyester /mylar/paper/ceramic, etc) cap’s which are poor quality and need changingYou can safely use a component rated for a higher voltage, as long as it’s Uf (capacitance) value is the same.
If you don’t have the test-equipment , just change them anyway,as they’re only pence and a LOT cheaper than a new board, so, IMHO, a good gamble for the reasonably competent DIY-er.
Re: AEG L64810 wash time pausing/stopping – help needed
Well, you seem to be fairly well into the job (not many DIY-er’s know the distinction between Isopropanol and India Pale Ale 😆 )
I think we can safely eliminate the motor and pressure-switch circuit….that leaves the doorswitch,heater circuit and the main-board itself.
If the heater appears to work OK and cycling doesn’t appear connected with the programme”hang” we’ll eliminate that.the fault isn’t “random”….eliminates doorswitch.
MAIN BOARD!
IF you have a “slave” board with a DC feed to the motor, it is worth checking.
You may also like to visit the REFRIGERATION forum and find the Whirlpool thread with 200-odd subscriptions.
The gist of that, is that Capacitors,both Solid Dielectric and electrolytic types, are known to fail far more readily than you would ordinarily expect……..
(especially if incorporated in sub-standard Italian circuit-boards 😉In short, I think you’re at a component-level search……it’s possible the relay-coil has shorted-turns or is arcing across a burnout…..test-meter or ‘Scope needed.
Whether It’s worth it, is your decision…. financially, it’s not,-but you seem to be a man who relishes a challenge 😛
Re: AEG L64810 wash time pausing/stopping – help needed
another wild guess-output triac on the board….it’s switching in the spin but not holding it, if i understand you correctly.
You have checked all the harness for continuity and firm connectors?
The tub jigging about can work-harden the wiring which then breaks INSIDE the insulation…hard to find and rare,but not unknown.
Don’t know what else to suggestI’d assume the “hang” time is a programmed default value for a particular part of the cycle….but , really, I’m no expert on this stuff.
Re: Teka not heating
try the RS link, check the data sheets and you will see that the temp/resistance gradient is NOT straight -line…in fact, most curves resemble thermionic valve output.
I would expect that the thermistors are chosen to give a fairly linear characteristic over their design-temperature switching range.
a standard light bulb LOOKS like any other and WORKS like any other, but there the similarity ends….the difference between a 25 watt bulb and a 100 watt bulb is evident in their respective DC resistances, power consumption and light-output.
Thermistors are a GROUP of specific components, as are RESISTORS,DIODES and CAPACITORS….nobody argues that all devices within the group are equal.
thermistors become “tired” and their characteristic becomes erratic.
Re-read P45’s synopsys of modus operandi….you may then concur that you are “sensing” temp. wrongly and “telling” the relay to drop out.
I assumed you checked the heater harness for continuity?…….tub moves constantly and wires can work-harden and fracture INSIDE the insulation
-rare but not unknown in a washer. (got the tee shirt 🙂 )Re: creda advance t601cw drying problem
That’s great! but thermistors and thermostats are two different things!!!!!
Thermistor is a solid-state device, the resistance of which varies with temperature.
Thermostat is a switch which operates at a designated temperature.That’s great! but thermistors and thermostats are two different things!!!!!
Thermistor is a solid-state device, the resistance of which varies with temperature.
Thermostat is a switch which operates at a designated temperature.(2 replies deserve 2 replies 😆 😆
Re: Teka not heating
IMHO, you’ve just answered your own problem
I have compared the NTC with the dryer one and they read both about the same,
one needs to sense the water temp. typically 90* or less
the other needs to sense heated air temp,which I would expect to be hot enough to evaporate moisture rapidly…guessing 120* upwards.perhaps you could load the board with a sufficiently high fixed resistor in place of the NTC,to simulate cold water.
As you’ve replaced the board, it’s logically the NTC or it’s wiring,as it is these that operate the relay(wild assumption that the heater IS controlled by a relay!)
Re: creda advance t601cw drying problem
Hi, P.45 😀 ….been playing auto-electrician/mechanic all week,as my mate’s employee broke his ankle on slippery decking (decked him, alright 😈 )
made me remember just why I chucked the motor-trade 😉Re: AEG L64810 wash time pausing/stopping – help needed
Hows about you revisit the motor….OK it may have had new brushes, BUT
what about the complete constituents of the old set?????That carbon-dust will be spread throughout the carcass, windings and insulation of the motor…….washing = water = damp…+ carbon-dust + earth-leakage….maybe enough to fool an electronic brain?
I’d wash it out with meths if an airline isn’t available,paying particular attention to the brush-holders and the commutator area.Re: Ariston Margherita 2000 – I also have a problem!
I’d GUESS It’s the water -level pressure-pipe/bell that’s blocked, leading the machine to think it’s got enough water.
Unplug machine….gain access……look for flat, cylindrical device with a load of wires/terminals and also a rubber or plastic pipe which disappears toward the bottom part of the tub.
Detach the pipe from the cylindrical pressure-switch and you should be able to blow down it…..if it’s blocked,strip and clean or try a squeezy washing-up -liquid bottle full of HOT water with a nozzle which will plug into the pipe
use it as a water-pistol to flush the muck into the machine (the pump should get rid of it on the next use)
DO NOT be tempted to blow through the pressure-switch they are VERY sensitive and you will likely kill it with one puff!
Not a professional washer engineer so the above is just a guess!
Re: WD860 Stopping Mid-Cycle
sounds like you have an obstruction in the sump-hose/ pump /drain.
the machine gives a generous time to pump out then moves to the next part of the cycle………if the water level is still high enough, it will “assume” it has taken in enough and carry on…..possibly the spin will be inhibited,as it would kill the motor to try and spin under those circumstances…..so yes, it seems logical that you’d get to end of program and have an unlocked machine full of water.
may be worth checking for coins/keys/jewellery/scrunchies/hair bobbles /matchsticks / bits of twig/straw…..jamming the pump or blocking the hoses.
It’s unlikely your guarantee will cover such misuse and you WILL get hammered, for such a callout.
NOTE ! i’M NOT A PROFESSIONAL WHITEGOODS ENGINEER!
