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Re: Dyson DC04 Not working after power cut
sorry, seems you’ve been missed! 😳
I don’t think the two events are connected….check the fuse you removed (easiest way is put it in an appliance plug (table-lamp?) ) and see if it still works…..if so, the fault is with the appliance…..if not, remove the fuse you put in and check that!…it’s not unknown to replace one “dud” with another.
I assumed you don’t have a multimeter….if you do, you can check the fuse and then check the machine itself, from the “pos” pin on the plug, forward.
It’s possible the cable has broken internally, near the guide where it goes into the body.
Very unusual for a motor to just “pop”…could be motor-brushes…thermal trip…..switch…
you would need to trace methodically..or find a repairer locally if it’s beyond you. I like the machines,much better than a lot of the cheap tat out there.
Re: TDL 30 rear bearing wearing out fast
It may be worthwhile lubricating a phosphor-bronze bush. sintered ones are highly porous and will “soak up” a fair amount.
I have had success with auto-transmission fluid (“red oil” ) used for cars.Years ago, my employer banned “3 in 1 ” oil, as it gummed up the bearings in small motors that ran 24/7. i don’t know if it still has those additives that caused the gumming.
If you added a small felt pad to feed the bearing, that would help,but remember that heat + airflow + fluff could lead to a potential fire if excess oil is around…..many a cotton mill burnt down as testimony to that!
Re: Kitchen cooker hood Extraction
A lot of these “designers” really don’t live in the real world!…..having read the thread, I assume the joists bridge between the two long walls, hence your need to site the extract between two joists and fit a 90* elbow.
Now, unless I’m missing the blindingly obvious, you’d have to do this, irrespective of the joist’s direction…..the vertical extract STILL has to be turnes horizontal, wether it goes across the tops of the units, or between the ceiling and upstairs floor,or you box it into a false beam across the ceiling.
General:- yes, bends do cause resistance….smooth ducting has lower drag than corrugated….ditto bends……a long, large-radius smooth bend is better than a length of flexible. you can reduce drag by making the cross-section larger …4″ pipe is about TWICE the SIZE of 3″. have a look at SCREWFIX…they do a range of rectangular,reducers, adaptors to round, etc.
Remember that grease will collect in ducting, it has to be cleanable, and NO, you can’t rely on the hood-filters (one of the reasons that recirc. hoods are not that good)
the outlet needs to be clear of brickwork, etc. otherwise you will get a stain on there.
Re: Mould build up on door seal & water not heating up ?
Yes! a hot wash will warm the lass and you’d normally smell a “hot soapy water” sort of smell.
sounds like you need to check the heater…..(we are ASSUMING it’s out of warranty!…..CHECK!!! )
unplug machine, access heater, disconnect wire from one terminal, meter across terminals should give ~ 25 ohms…..meter one terminal to earth “should” be infinite…..if it’s not, disconnect the other wire and check again……the2 terminals should have resistance between them , but neither should go to earth.
lack of continuity (open circuit) =burnt out low resistance to earth = short-circuit.
TIP. use a digital camera as a “notebook” as you strip stuff and BEFORE you remove any wires.
The above assumes your machine has a simple, single element….if there’s a compound element, there will be a “daisy-chain” wire linking all the “common” sides together. test each one by isolating, as above.
Meanwhile, I’m not a professional repairer,so exercise due caution and use what i say as guidance, not gospel 😆
Re: help indesit idl 500 dishwasher 2nd and 4th lights flas
no…it’s not like a pinball-table 😆
most likely there was a poor connection and the removal/refitting /moving wires around has made the joint good again.
Re: Mould build up on door seal & water not heating up ?
If it’s SUPPOSED to be 95*, and it’s NOT, then sounds like you have a problem…..but bear in mind, that it’s only likely to be the WASH that’s heated and the rinses are all likely to be cold.
Re: Beko DE3431FW sump sensor probe
Initially I suspected the pass-thru element, but this has tested as OK.
But what you are saying is this will only act to stop the heating once a given temperature has been reached?
So, if I’m understanding correctly, this will not be the cause of my problem.
Perhaps it’s the POT that needs to be replaced then….
bear in mind that i’m NOT an appliance engineer
Let’s start again 🙂 the sump-sensor should have a high resistance when it’s cold….so when the machine fills with cold water, the NTC (google it, if you don’t understand!) will “tell” the board to turn the heater on, but the board, in turn, needs to know there’s water there, etc.
IF the heater warms the water, the NTC will drop in resistance, to the point the board “knows” the water’s hot enough.
NTC out of spec. = wrong info to the board.heater low resistance to earth = spurious info to board
board fault= heater and NTC will not get correct communication.
sorry, I don’t know what the POT is , which you refer to. hope this is of some help, anyway.
I’d check the NTC with an ohm meter and some hot water and plot temp/res graph (roughly) I’d also check heater isn’t leaking to earth.-for starters.
Re: help indesit idl 500 dishwasher 2nd and 4th lights flas
also the element has been removed and is a greenish colour is this any indication of a faild element.
no, it’s normal,as the outer case of the element is usually copper or copper/nickel (which go green in water.)
the element needs to be tested, electrically (assuming there are no cracks/splits/holes in it’s casing which would let water into the “innards” )
resistance between the element terminals = ~25-30 ohms
resistance, either element terminal to casing (earth)= infinity NO movement on an analogue meter-needle – megohms for digital.if high res. element = burnt out
if low res. element = partially shorted
if low res. earth to element = shorted to earthall are fault conditions and the heater is scrap.
Re: Bosch SGS4302 – not heating up and stuck on 1 minute
As a general rule, don’t invert appliances!
make sure you drain EVERYTHING first, if tipping/inverting it.
sorry, i’m not an engineer, so I can’t be more specific….but this will give you a “bump” anyway 😀Re: No power to Caple DI414 Dishwasher?
yes, you’ll have to pull the machine out and take the casing off.
follow the mains cable route (unplug the machine BEFORE doing anything) and you’ll see it going to a “electronic component”…..there will also be (2 or 3)wires coming out, that’s the mains filter/supressor.
The wiring from the “electrics” in the door, will exit at the bottom of the door (hinge-edge)…you’ll need to check them all for continuity…..the wire goes brittle and snaps, but the plastic covering is often OK (just to fool you! )You will probably need to dismantle the door -casing in order to access the wires.
All dismantling should be fairly obvious…..if it’s not, you may be out of your depth!
Not a professional repairer ,so don’t take my words as gospel!
Re: Schreiber Type HI 1521 Model APM 6713. Thermostat proble
Hi, Dave…..bit of a shot in the dark, here, but ’till the lone ranger and tonto turn up 😆
yes, your temps do seem a little low, but remember, there’s a “differential” (the temperature difference between cut-in and cut-out ) you should aim for about 6* C as a max.
Compressor could be running almost full -time because it simply can’t get rid of the heat it pulls out of the cabinet
(I’ve seen cooling-fans under/on the back of built-ins )……clean them , also the “radiator” (usually black) that is supposed to get that airflow -usually clogged with greasy dust and a load of fluff……
You could be right about the doorseals.try slipping a piece of paper over the cabinet-edge, close the door, see if the paper is gripped or it falls out.
compressors could be getting “tired”- although the whole unit is sealed with it’s lubricant and the refrigerant, wear still takes place in bearings and valves.
finally, the refrigerant -gas can “leak”..-even metal is porous and over time, gas could diffuse through..try cleaning first! you’ll get a real efficiency -gain and save electrickery 🙂
Re: Frost developing inside back of fridge
I take it steve you havent seen the swan instructions then…Not good.
that’ll be the finest trainee translator Chinglish then ❓ 😆
Re: Frost developing inside back of fridge
Pauline,- when the machine hums, that is usually the compressor running….that’s when it is making things colder and when it’s forming ice……..when it reaches the “coldness” you set on the thermostat, it will stop the compressor……the ice will melt and run down……the temperature rises and the compressor starts again……..this cycle repeats 24/7 the length of cycle depends on warm/cold environment,as well as how often and how long the door is opened and just what you put in it.
Perhaps the replacements were made because they were eager to please you and accepted your word that it was “icing-up” without confirming this was normal for the appliance in question.
If in doubt, read the instructions 😛
Re: Dodgy Thermostat
was it working BEFORE you changed the thermostat?????
If “yes” likely you’ve wired it wrongly
If “no” you need to check that there is continuity from the mains-plug to the compressor-motor….if you check this with a multimeter on “ohms” range, (UNPLUGGED, of course!) you may be able toturn the ‘stat control sufficiently to switch on-off and confirm it works…..but in any event, if you have continuity to the motor, but it doesn’t run, it could well be kaput.
