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Re: Load bang and sparks from cooker
Crusty…that’s bad news. “joyrider” is an oxymoron which there’s a good reason for the thought police banning.
As your family has found, there’s nothing joyful about thieving scumbags depriving people of their hard-earned transport.
I’ve heard of the perps. being forced to face their victims, explain their actions and hear how their behaviour has hurt others’ lives. Apparently the reduction in offending is quite dramatic……but the human rights PC crowd feel it’s too traumatic for the poor darlings who are scarred by a “bad” upbringing.
I’d be happy to scar the bas****s with a bloody good birching.
Re: Is there such an animal? M/W question
But the rust does concern me somewhat.
Why???? you’re not eating it! 😀 …(may be a good thing to eat, anyway, stave off anaemia! 😀
once the food is hot, all the bugs are killed, so no need to worry. you could use a “scotchbrite” scouring -pad to clean it out,if it worries you…I’d just carry on running it ’til it dies. 😛Re: Load bang and sparks from cooker
(I know all about turning power off, my brother used to be an electrical engineer before he died)
Am I the only one who saw the funny side of this 😆 😆
Re: Belling D841SS STAINLESS STEEL Dual Fuel Cooker
The colour of the flame is a good indication of the “burn quality”
If you can recollect the “gas-Board” adverts with the pictures of a lit burner……that’s what yours should look like. a light, turquoise -blue inner-cone, with a soft, darker outer-cone…….any yellow “feathers” on the ends, indicates the cooker is improperly adjusted.(not enough air (oxygen) in the flame)
A “hard”( “noisy”) flame, with short, ragged flame-tips, is likely to have TOO MUCH air in it and it’s actually COOLER than a properly set flame.
To C.M.A. (and the Forum’s) I must add that this is an adjustment which should only be carried out by a properly qualified gas-fitter.
As a rough guide, the size of the burners will give you an idea of the relative heat-output capabilities……not forgetting that the pan should NOT have lots of flame spilling up round the sides!
Re: Is there such an animal? M/W question
bit of lateral thinking, here.
have you considered a light commercial product?….Nesbit’s have a huge range and sometimes do “specials”..their “shop” also has a “clearance corner”
NOT CHEAP…and I don’t know if you’ll get what you’re looking for there, either.
I can’t honestly tell you that light industrial is any “better” , technically, than a top-quality domestic (both have one Magnetron and control-gear (the bits that make the microwaves )
The real catering ones have 2 sets of gear,but you’re talking around £1,000😯
Re: Temp & oven select settings on Stoves efa600h worn o
Catty…and all who follow with this problem 🙁
Go to a cookware shop and buy an oven -thermometer….you can then calibrate and mark your dial.(see previous post on Vinyl and Letraset )
It will probably be more accurate than the original printing, which os probably just an “around-about” sort of average,deduced from a batch of thermostats. 😀
Re: Nuova Ibmei: Electric question
John, not wishing to” rain on your parade” as our transatlantic friends would say,…..but if you haven’t a clue, then you’re obviously out of your depth!
ELECTRICITY AT 230 V IS NOT A SUITABLE TOY AT YOUR KNOWLEDGE LEVEL!!!
DO NOT step up for a “Darwin Award”If you have a proper use for a motor, just go and buy one ready-made for the job.
Re: Bosch fridge door seal
I’m tempted to say,superglue or sikaflex the seal (silicone would probably do at a pinch) OR…visit a camping shop..vinyl solvent /glue is available and would bond the seal much better (most seals ARE vinyl and not rubber1)
then move the handle 🙂 if it’s one of those that’s mounted on the edge, with a couple of self-tappers.. should be easy and you haven’t anything to lose as the door’s basically scrap anyway.
Re: XCans of worms disguised as boxes of washing powder…
Hi, Kate,
I know it’s a bit late to resurrect an old thread,BUT.There is a Proctor and Gamble product,primarily for hard-surface/utensils/glassware cleaning in the catering industry. to me, it looks like unscented washing-powder.
the product is DEEPIO (the grease-buster) I used to get it in a 12.5 kilo box, but IIRC there’s also about a 3 kilo size.
Yes, i used it for laundry-all the whites and coloured’s from a fish-and-chip shop. cost about the same as supermarket “basic”powder, per kg.Excellent product, maybe you should write to P&G outlining your problems and ask for a sample.
Catering suppliers/wholesalers stock it, also Bookers cash/carry. (trade-only , but they CAN issue a “visitor pass” and do a “courtesy-sale” )…rules are there courtesy of Inland Revenue/Customs to stop caterers cooking the books :rolls:
Regarding your cesspit, time to get a septic tank ! foul water in, clean water out! add a reed-bed and you have a sound ecological system….it’s normal in rural France and there it’s trouble-free.
Emptying is a very infrequent occurence, just when the solid precipitate takes too much space for efficient bacterial action.
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
Very true Steve, but a proper cleaning regime would negate the problem in the first place. Wink
Or buy an ISE10 which just doesn’t have the problem. Wink Laughing
Agreed, with these modern, low temp. washing-cycles, the machines themselves have to be “laundered” on a regular basis.
no reason to be ashamed plugging what is almost certainly the best-value for money machine on the UK market. (OK, some Miele models may be cheaper, but AFAIK the guarantee is shorter than the ISE 10 and their parts prices will make your eyes water.
But isn’t that PVC Steve? It doesn’t seem to stain as deeply as this washing machine rubber for some reason?
yes, but shiny yellow /red/blue/green PVC shows it a lot worse than grey rubber.
Ok. Sfunny, I can’t remember the old Lavamat suffering so? Maybe it was how we looked after it .. or possibly the rubber was ‘different’ or better quality (as Iadom suggested)?
see remark regarding wash-temps-also I’ve a gut-feeling the present door-seals have a softer,less shiny surface than the old ones.
(Bronco V Andrex) 😯
So where *is* your vinegar factory Steve! ? Wink I actually soaked the heater element in ordinary vinegar and it worked very well (all be it a bit smelly)
No factory! though Sarsons is about 7 miles away
It’s cheap, effective, non-toxic,food-safe. yes, Malt vinegar can stain and is smellier. 😛On one side of that flange and about 3mm in from the inner edge a deep groove (maybe 5mm wide by 8mm deep) and on the mating surface (on the other tub) a 5mm wide by 5mm high triangle section that would have aligned directly over and into the groove.
So, the triangular ,concentric ridge would centre the two flanges,thus saving a spigot on one half and a corresponding socket on the other…..but was the whole of the faces bonded, or was it just the outer”rims” that were fused together. *thinks , turn about 5MM off the edge, in a big lathe and the tub would fall into 2 halves.* ??
Thanks for keeping us up with the saga….(though it’s a shame you didn’t document it.) 🙂
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
OK, time to COME CLEAN 😳
I’ve got a large commercial bouncy castle…….stored away damp at season’s end……next spring, it’s covered in black mould.
Bought a couple of bottles of white vinegar at the supermarket and went over the whole structure (by hand, inflated) with a face-flannel and the vinegar.(hint: google “cleaning / white vinegar )
followed it with a hot pressure-wash with a strong alkaline TFR (traffic Film Remover ) soap ,followed by a cold rinse……yes you could still see slight staining, but it saved £1800 worth of kit.
Bleach is cheap, use it full strength (wear rubber gloves…VENTILATION ! ) on the rubber.
residual staining is just cosmetic and I would agree with the Professionals’ opinions…..you can control the growths, but not eliminate them.
💡 start machine cycle….when it’s got enough water in it to foll the sump-hose and pump, pour in a pint or two of vinegar via the soap dispenser.
The hot, vinegary wash should go a long way to cleaning and purifying.
Vinegar contains Ethanoic acid (acetic acid )…germicidal!IMHO, “cif” is a waste of time and cash…it’s just a detergent and a fine abrasive…generic “cream cleaner ” is just as effective at a quarter the price, BUT not for this job! the rubber is porous,the abrasive “grinds ” the dirt off the surface of the high-spots, but can’t abrade the pores…so that’s why you need bleach/vinegar.- Anew seal will soon get contaminated,so don’t waste time and cash.
you’ve nothing to lose trying the bleach/vinegar routine
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
Yes, pic’s would be good, Tim.
Was the bond-line of the two halves just on the edges, or was the whole of the mating face bonded? (IIRC, you said there was a seal in a groove around the mating -face of the flanges.)
Certainly good to see someone else defeating the attempts at forcing you to dump stuff.Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
White vinegar 😉 YES! REALLY! you will probably also need to bleach as well, but white vinegar is good for windows,bathroom tiles and all sorts of stuff…kills black mould and is safe. 😀
just run the machine with some old tea-towels or similar (or empty, even) to wash it out after treating.
Re: Bosch SMS3042GB/03 – no water coming in
Well, DWP, unless you “normally” work with electricity , you’ve had a lucky escape from this year’s Darwin Awards 😉
As Penguin says, It’s extremely dodgy unless you’re really familiar with the techniques and safety-procedures.
you could always look on “fleabay” or “loot” and find one of the same model, with a good timer..
I must confess to having stripped and repaired a mechanical timer…it wasn’t a long-term fix, due to the non-existence of contact-blades,cam-followers etc.
If you just want to see how one works, that’s different,BUT DO IT WHEN IT’S DISCONNECTED! live safe and long.
