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Re: Candy CD622… capacitor blown?
There won’t be Carbon brush dust, it’s a Capacitor start Induction motor so there are no brushes.
😳
* hngs head in shame and scuttles off *……should have known that, i’ve pulled a few apart. 😉
Re: MFI APM6855 Fridge Problem
erm, actually, you’ve written a guide on how to defrost it!
all that bother can be saved 😕1…unplug appliance
2… remove contents
3…. lay some old towels in the bottom of the freeezer
4….leave doors open on appliance for 24 hours5…reverse above, having mopped up any water the towels didn’t absorb.
but you STILL haven’t checked the defrost heater, low temp thermistor, defrost temp thermistor or thermal fuse (s)…all clearly identifiable, if you know what you’re looking for, or have the inclination,nous and a bit of experience to work it out…..otherwise, it’s call an engineer time.
hiding the symptoms doesn’t cure the illness.Re: Bauknecht TRK5970 Popping the house ECB
WARNING ..I’M NOT AN ENGINEER
But I’d suggest that you have a problem with fluff/dust buildup getting damp and tracking down to earth. normally, any condensate will not affect electrical safety.
Re: Indesit DI620 program selction fault
the professionals will probably tell you that it’s indes*it….poor quality eyetie electronics, dickey connectors…..could be anything,cheap but really nasty.
If you feel up to it, I’d have the casing open (unplug first!) then go all round , checking wiring and connections.,interlocks, microswitches……..and on…………..
quick cure…..launch in skip, buy a decent one! 😉
Re: Candy CD622… capacitor blown?
A bang.. burnt electrical smell
😯 you haven’t investigated? the “bang/burnt smell” is usually a short-circuit or track to earth…could be a number of reasons, but dishwashers being damp-prone and carbon-brush-dust being conductive…..has to be near the top of the list of “things to check”
Likely the bang-burning blew away the easy alternative route for the electrickery…..UNTIL NEXT TIME 😥
Leccy is lazy stuff,it will choose the easiest path “home”tou need to check, clean and maybe put some insulating-varnish where the bang happened.
otherwise you risk another bang , or worse…..fire or shock are possibilities.
Re: ISE10 purchase and door removal – also using *more* wate
I think you could just bung your basket on the floor, partway overlapped by the door, scoop the laundry straight from drum, across door and it drops in the basket.
then you close the door , call the wife and tell her you’ve emptied the machine for her and left the basket easily acessible 😛
that’s a win-win situation!
Re: built in gas double oven query ?
Just like your namesake, a gas-oven is inefficient, fuel thirsty and not good for it’s environment 😆
It is a necessity of combustion that you draw in air, therefore you must constantly vent hot flue-gases into the kitchen in order to cook. IMHO, the “sealed box” environment of an electric oven is better-suited to the task.Hobs are a different animal,-I believe induction is very energy-efficient, followed by Halogen( but you can buy a HUGE amount of electricity with the price-difference! )……..ceramic and Radiant are low down, as they produce heat from the underside which the designer attempts to reflect up to the utensil.
IMHO, the flexibility and instant response of a gas hob, outweighs the loss of heat through flame-spread and convection.
leccy oven, gas hob, best gombination
Re: DeLonghi Microwave Oven/grill AC925EQK
Of course, you’ve tried the “spare parts” link, under your post, haven’t you! 😉
If it’s not listed, (Highly probable!) send Don an E-mail….usually the service is first-class.
Re: The ‘Reason’ Washing Machine
Er- sorry the thread is drifting a bit 😳 STEVIESPARKS….sorry, mate, yours was only a SLIGHT difference of viewpoint 😈 the one I recollected, went on for about four pages and the respondent was comparing the ISE10 with another machine of a different spec, out of the same factory….sort of comparing a base-model Fiesta with a top-range Ghia -spec.
Nothing new on the “Reason” website, though I had a smile at the laundry-basket hooked over the edge of the “drawer”
Mr. Reason’s laundry baskets obviously have a much stronger lip than those available locally
The video shows it bending with DRY “washed” clothes being unloadedWait ’till a few punters get a basket falling on their inquisitive toddler and we’ll see how that “feature2 flies….that’s if the drawer-runners stand it and the “sump” is, indeed heavy enough to balance the cantilevered load.
Sure, I’m critical!….As a potential customer, i’ve a right to be….if the guy wants to be taken seriously, he’d better not insult my intelligence .A true-life video would go a long way to achieving credibility.
Also , the UK-W. engineers have extended an invitation to him, to show the Trade…..he can ONLY benefit from such a meeting, but AFAIK, their collective knowledge, skill and experience is of no account to mr. Reason.
A certain Clive Sinclair once decided to develop a revoloutionary personal transportation device……how we chortled when the “mobile Lavvy” was introducad- complete with “straining -handle” under the squatter’s knees 😆
But what do we know? we’re just ordinary “joe-soaps”…not a patch on the intelligence and intellect of “Mr. Inventor”
Re: AEG L16830 Drain Pump Problems
Tilt it back against a handy wall (or robust fitted-unit) …make sure it has weight against the wall( that is, it won’t topple back forward if you touch it!)
on the floor, with a torch….follow the drain-hose from sink to pump 🙂
If the case is a “u” shape(back or front and two half-sides)…usually theres little blastic buttons at the bottom ,near the joint….prise them out, remove hidden screws beneath……top normally held with a bracket/screw, each back corner….remove, slide top off locating pegs/forks…..find screws on top edge of casing-half.
UNPLUG FIRST!!!! SWITCHING-OFF IS NOT SAFE
Re: Ariston Margherita AWD12 Blowing cold
Just a quick advisory to the above, for the benefit of future readers.
The markings on the fuse are NOT it’s resistance….(it’s a fuse! )
It is important to ensure the TEMPERATURE rating and CURRENT capacity are correct for the application intended.
thermal fuses MUST be crimped or screwed into circuit- soldering is not an option as it will likely weaken or melt the fuse…(hint:- Thermal= heat-sensitive) 🙂Re: DeDietrich DME555XE1 combination integral Microwave Spar
I had the same problem with a couple of different ovens.
IMHO, the problem can be caused by TOO THOROUGH cleaning.
to explain:- the waveguide-cover is normally made of MICA…a naturally -occuring substance which is “flaky” like slate.
I think that when it’s wiped with a too-damp cloth, the edges of the laminae (posh word!) wick -up the soapy,greasy water by capilliary attraction…..eventually, the residue after the water evaporates, builds up sufficiently to track the microwaves to “ground” hence the sparks.I have not found a substitute for Mica, that doesn’t rapidly degrade from the waves attempting to pass through,so i conclude that this is the cheapest,most readily -available, microwave-transparent, thin, flat substance the manufacturers can source. you CAN speed-up the lightning-display by letting the cavity (oven) get crudded-up,….but not in my case.
(I used them in a catering-business as well!)
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I’d guess that it’s either the NTC temperature-sensor U/S or the heater that defrosts the Evaporator.
WARNING I’m not an engineer,so this is only a guess.
If you think about how much you spend on regular servicing on a car, washing-machine etc. your £40 is not a lot compared to the purchase-price.
It’s just not realistic to expect a relatively cheap piece of equipment to do years without spending a bean on it.
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
*note to self….read the question properly!* 😳
The above comments on testing an element, only apply to a sheathed element .
(looks like a kettle or cooker-element….if yours is the thin-wire type it’ll be fairly obvious.Secondly….there will be a safety-stat / stats in series with the heater. Some are self-resetting, when they cool down, others have to be changed if they go open-circuit.
Don’t make the assumption that no heat = faulty heater…TEST THE CIRCUIT.
UNPLUG FIRST!
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Just had a look at the flightless one’s reference and it already has 1/4 ” Lucar connectors (in plain english, spade terminals )
If the wiring harness is already terminated with push-on spades, it’s easy-peasy (just make sure polarity is correct,IF the cap is polarised )
Any car -spares shop will sell you the appropriate “spades” which can be soldered or crimped to the ends of the wires.
If there’s not a mounting -bracket for the cap, you can tie-wrap it to secure it.
(the casing appears to be fully insulated and i get a feeling it is not polarity -sensitive….bung one wire ,from the old one, to one side of the new one, repeat with second wire….fix it so it doesn’t get bashed around, job’s a good’un. 😆
