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Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
Well, if you have found the thermistor(s) that control the compressor, and they don’t affect the readout, that ,logically means
either- there’s another thermistor somewhere, which “drives” the readout
OR there is a board fault(which is what i’d go for).If the temp. readout rose to cut-in and fell to cut-out, that would suggest that the temp.indicator circuit was working,but faulty -(probably a component out of tolerance)
As you say it remains firmly on 11, despite the compressor cycling (and cabinet temperature with it)…. that makes me feel that the same thermistor drives the compressor and indication circuits.
As I said before, I’m not a whitegoods engineer and can only generalise, based on a broad knowledge of electronics and electro-mechanical basics.
I’d be tempted to leave it, though it may be unsettling to have no indication that it’s actually working correctly….having said that, the huan body is pretty good at detecting temperature, so as long as the compressor ‘s cycling, it may be a fault to live with.
Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
I’ll guess that it’s a thermistor that senses the temperature and that it’s not the same one that switches the compressor,
It “could” be that water got into a connection, during the defrost….that would affect things if it’s melting/refreezing.
I’m sure you could isolate it and test with an ohms-meter,cup of warm water ,cup of ice and a thermometer.
you could then plot a temp/resistance curve for the thermistor. the curves/types are readily available from electronic component distributors on the net.
you say the compressor is cycling OK….but does the temperature readout vary across the switching-range (differential)
If it reads +11 at the lowest, when the compressor cuts out, does it rise to ,say,+15 before the compressor cuts in again.?
that would indicate that it’s actually working, but inaccurate, as opposed to reading a static temp. no matter what the true state was.
Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
there should be a humming noise, quite distinct from the sound of a fan, when the compressor is running…..you’ll often hear a “click….bzzzzzzzzz” the compressor starting and running….the “Bzzzz” usually goes for 5-10 minutes, until the temp gets to that set..then there’s another click and it all goes quiet…..
you “may” hear a very quiet fan,circulating air inside the cabinet.
The compressor is the noise you would have heard when you first plugged it in and turned it on…..likely, as previously discissed, it would have run for several hours.The readout, whilst being inaccurate, isn’t really “life-threatening”
It could simply be that where the sensor sits, it IS only -11 !
otherwise, it may be the sensor is now out of specification, or one of the associated circuit components has “drifted”As long as the cabinet temperature remains correct, just remember that it reads 7* out, in the freezer -section.
no doubt you could rectify the fault-i’d live with it.
Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
you don’t say if the compressor is cycling (cutting out, then cutting in when the temperature rises)
It will possibly cycle a bit more often,whilst all the materials of the liner, insulation and stuff get down to temp…..when it’s cut out (again, i’m assuming it’s a single compressor! )…i’d hope for a normal temp readout -guessing -18C for freezer and +4 C for fridge.
you could always stick a thermometer in there, unless you have a digital probe.Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
I’d guess that 3 to 6 hours would be reasonable……forgot to say in my last post:-
I’m not a professional Whitegoods Engineer, so take due regard of that , when reading what I post! 😆
Re: Dyson washing machines
the bearings were supposed to be made by ferrari, they should have lasted !
Au contraire, mon ami. 😉
I think you’ll find that these cars sacrifice longevity for light-weight and maximum performance (output)
It’s generally accepted that a racing-car is at it’s most efficient in the narrow service-life between “run-in” and “clapped-out” 😯 😈
perhaps you’re right, after all!
Re: Hotpoint FFA90 – Icing
looks like that’s it! they usually get blocked by bits of packaging/polystyrene/foil and all sorts of decomposing food-scraps and their associated “cultures”
Rightly or wrongly, I fill an old washing-up liquid bottle with warm water and squirt this on to defrost/clear it……..BUT it’s advisable to gain access to the back and clear out the surplus water and the “tray” where it normally drains to for evaporation……..there’s usually an evil swamp there as well.
Once they’re cleaned-out, they usually go another 10 years before clogging again 😆
Re: Integrated Fridge, ventilation.
yes, it will warm your kitchen 😀
The fridge is really just a box with a mechanism for pulling the heat from the inside and dumping it on the outside.
The less fluff and clutter underneath and the easier the warm air can escape from round the cabinet, the easier your fridge will work.
I’d suggest you re-open the vent above or arrange good airflow across the back of ajacent cabinets.
When you open the door, the cold air , being more dense than warm air, will “slump” out onto the floor, to be replaced by “warm” ambient air….you’ll get a bit of the heat from the vent, but AFAIK, the fan stops when you open the door, thus minimising the intake of hot air.
Re: Whirlpool S20BRWW20-A/G ice maker not working. Help ple
I don’t know how relevant it is, but there’s a HUGE thread on Whirlpool and their ice-makers.
Re: DIPLOMAT APM6724 REFRIGERATOR
I think that Diplomat is a brand of the now-defunct MFI.
Please take on board that i’m NOT a professional Whitegoods engineer 😆
If this is a built-in fridge, the door-hinges wear/break , the door doesn’t seal properly, the light can stay on, thereby heating the interior as fast as the compressor is trying to cool it.
Again, instead of the big, black ,louvered plate at the back (the condenser) it’s quite common to have a small “radiator” hidden underneath with a fan…..
these units suffer fan-failure and choking-up with fluff.you need to check if the compressor is actually cycling on-off…if it’s working continuously, either you have compressor valvefailure/gas loss OR, if the “cold bit” is actually getting cold, that would point to the excess fluff/cooling fan failure.
In any event, it doesn’t hurt to clean the fan/fluff etc.
You didn’t say if the thermostat is actually allowing the compressor to run.
No compressor = no cooling.
OK before I get shot down, there are ABSORBTION fridges and also PELTIER-EFFECT (cold-boxes for sure, but is anyone making a Peltier ‘Fridge???
or, come to that, absorbtion, other than for caravans/boats?Re: Cost per wash for Hoover Performer Eco 1300
Bit late on this one, but here goes.
You cannot accurately measure blindly, by the rating-plate,- incoming water-temperature, size of load and ambient temperature will all have a big effect, as the heater uses the most current, but only when it’s actually on!
I’d suggest- turn off/unplug EVERYTHING in the house/garage so that ONLY the washer is connected and switched on (yes, i did mean unplug telly, radio, clocks,computer and anything in “standby” mode.
take a meter-reading on your electric/water meters.
Do a wash.
read the meters, calculate actual consumption and multiply by unit-cost.
Or, you could buy a check-meter 😉
Or, take the view that the capital cost of the machine , maintenance and replacement is likely to be well in excess of the cost of consumables.I’ll throw out a figure of £1.50 a wash, all in………anyone care to comment/contradict?
Re: Hoover Vision HD 781 XTB condenser dryer- leak
Though I’m not a Whitegoods engineer, and not familiar with your machine, It sounds odd that you should be getting condensation on the glass.
From what I understand, the machine warms air, passes it through the damp, tumbling clothes, then evacuates the hot, moisture-laden air. to dry the air, it has to be chilled (basic physics, the warmer the air, the more moisture it holds)…..the condenser does the chilling, but it sounds though your door is doing the same thing.
I’d expect the inside of the doorglass to be warm -enough to not condense the moisture, as that’s a bit self-defeating.Is the machine in a cold/draughty/damp location?
Odd things can happen with atmospheric moisture….I’ve seen a workshop air-compressor collect a quart of water a day,-moved 30 feet along the same workshop, it didn’t collect that in a month!
I don’t know if your machine recirculates the same air, or exhausts the drier air…if it does, I’d check that the exhaust has a free, unobstructed flow,as a poor airflow through the washing would saturate the air to the point where the coldest surface starts condensing it….also, make sure you’re not obstructing something when you put it back in it’s “hole”
Re: Dyson washing machines
As they get older, more and more of these Dyson machines seem to be appearing on Fleabay.
I recently had a look at a review-site (OK, I’m a saddo 😳 ) The concensus seems to be that spares are running low at Dyson HQ and the end is in sight for many. It was also rumoured that the drum/tub manufacturer had ceased production, so maybe Dyson didn’t get the moulds ,or setup to restart was not viable.
Great concept but rushed onto the market at an inflated price without sufficient field-testing and development.
I hate to think how much they lost on each machine that the owners persevered with.
Re: New washing machine time, advice please
Billy….If you do a bit of research (Google is your friend)….you’ll find that the Fagor brand is fairly well established on the UK market.
That’s NOT to say they are particularly good or bad, -with manufacturers dropping like flies in this recession, it’s pot-luck on any but the biggest manufacturers and even then, if it’s a comglomerate, they still won’t hesitate to pull out of a loss-making sector…..(look at Daewoo, huge outfit into shipbuilding downwards,but they let the car company go under ,though it was bought by Chrysler, IIRC. )
For some reason I’ve never understood, an integrated machine, lacking the “cosmetic”outer-panels, is dearer than it’s stand-alone equivalent.
IMHO, you’re not going to get within a country-mile of ISE or Miele quality at your price-point….you are buying a machine which you should be prepared to write off at the end of the extended warranty,-as, indeed ,you’re doing with the CDA.
Re: Indesit DI620 program selction fault
The enthusiasm of Cockney Steve has to be admired but it would be far more appropriate were he to leave those that seek technical advice to us experts.
But , Martin, I said”the professionals will probably tell you……”
Ok, so you didn’t say it……..this time 😈 ….in future, i’ll try to curb my sense of humour.
