[electrofix]

highly likely its the brushes

you will need a 5.5mm socket to get them off

if you take them off, flick the head of the brush a few time to strectch things a bit. then look at the head of the brush to see if you can see the copper core. if you cant see the core you can put them back and it should see you through a few washes till the replacements get here.
when you do replace them keep the loads down and use lower spin speeds till the new brushes bed in

Dave

[electrofix]

the air brake uses a reed switch. the reed switch closes as a magnet goes past it. over time the contact wont be 100 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} and faults happen.

Dave

[electrofix]

on a lot of later machines they use virtual sensors. They monitor the motor current and dependant on load they can check if there is enough water to turn on the heater

Dave

[electrofix]

F01 is one of those aweful codes with many problems

this is not your machine but will give you ideas

have not got manual for your model

Dave

[electrofix]

fridges not my area of expertise and some other member might have an idea
But

Did you know Miele dont make the fridge and all miele refigeration products are made by Liebherr

Dave

[electrofix]

there must be more numbers as looking up on connect with those numbers still gives me at least 9 cookers

It could be the overheat stat faulty. if it has dirty contacts the switch will heat internally and trip out sooner

Dave

[electrofix]

cant finnd a decant pic of the seal that tells me how its fixed. it is available so it can be removed
A lot of the time its a rubber barb moulded into the seal that lockes into a channel in the door

try carefully pulling it away at a corner and looking how its fitted

Dave

[electrofix]

ok that look like poss fault 1

fault 1 is motor triac problem but earth leakage on the motor has been known to cause this on some machines

could be as simple as carbon dust also chech for small leaks onto motor

Dave

[electrofix]

correct

the only coil that can go direct is the higher resitance. with resitance alone it would draw 42A but its a coil in a steel former so that should work to reduce current

all this is a lot of guess work with a bit of experience thrown in so hope am right but there is no guarentee in these situations

just a pity its made by a company thats hell to get info off

Dave

[electrofix]

ok well that loop goes in series with the start cap

its poss the other coil is in series with the run cap

and the last coil is fed direct

its just an educated guess and you would have to measure current on switch on

Dave

[electrofix]

try opening the door after its filled and adding half a pan of water

see if it changes anything

Dave

[electrofix]

assume your not using the fast wash as that has no drying phase

Dave

[electrofix]

fault code on these will be the vertical lights on the right

from the bottom which ones are lit and not lit

Dave

normally the lights are binary so first light is worth 1 when lit , the next 2 followed by 4, 8 and 16 you add these up to get code

[electrofix]

make sure the rear plug is all the way home and try it in a different socket just to make sure

Dave

[electrofix]

ok where does the centrifugal switch fit in this
is one of the coil wires go directly to it and come out as one of the wiring pairs ?

Dave

[Author]

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