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DishySunak wrote:Chucked a new float switch in, still having the same issues.
Any thoughts? Thanks!the fault was pressure switch not float switch
did you check that ?
Dave
connect seem to list a door frame with handle but no stock
[h=1]5045383849964[/h]
should be above number but you need to checkthink it may be obsolete but cant be certain
partmaster site lists outer frame assy but says its no longer available. no pic so cant be certain
Dave
Beko are not bad, lots of them around and if its integrated am fairly sure they still have a 2 year warranty
also look at Smeg. as they dont seem too baldly built
the Bosch and neff units further up the range have all metal wash compartments but still have the weak wash pump unfortunately
[USER=”125″]don[/USER]
you got any veiws on this
Dave
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1322553510-washing-machine-shock-absorber
£125 to fit 2 shocks sounds a bit steep
Dave
have you had a look at the element. if its been that blocked the elements may have sagged and be heating unevenly
no values on ntc’s little or no tech info for these
Dave
have you tried it with wet clothes in
dont forget these units sense the clothes so if it does not detect dampness it may not turn on compressor due to energy saving
Dave
if the leak is on the joint between the metal and plastic there is no easy answer. you could try silicone but make sure its well cleaned before you apply
Dave
that probably the cooling fan for the compressor. its only a computer type fan in most cases so is very very low power
Dave
only caple are going to know how the fan responds.
there will be 2 fans. one to circulate the air and the other to cool the compressorDave
well you would need to access the wires to the inlet valve and check for coil resistance first
if yes then you would need to see if the unit energises the valve
and go from there
Dave
does sound odd
cant see why plugging in the motor would do this. its not adding load to the board power supply as its a 240v motor
have you had a carful look at the board tracks and joint for faults
have you check for a definate supply to the board with the motor connected ? both live and neutral
Dave
bit of a loss
you say you remove the connector and then light and panel comes on
if your removing the connector off the board it cant work. unless i am missing something
if motor had gone i would expect it to hum and not start or be dead but lights would still go on and off via the switch
its no worse than the lamps in your house. if one lamp fails the rest still work ok
DaveDavid Reid wrote:Yes, as per the post I checked the resistance of them. Is there anything else I can check other than the resistance, and do you think the readings above sound ok? Dave
yes readings are ok but the next thing is flow rate
if the valve is activated but the flow rate is low you will have to change the valve
assume your water flow to the machine is ok
Dave
