[electrofix]

the neutral goes into p1 and will connect to 1 when rotated
check this

Dave

[electrofix]

the only long shot you have is to approach the retailer

you need to check legislation but under the sale of goods act goods have to be of merchantable quality, be fit for purpose and last a resonable length of time

its all based on what a reasonable man would expect and you would expect an appliance of this type and cost to last longer

you will find info on how to do this online through citizens advise or the like

best of luck

Dave

[electrofix]

on the few i can find F4 is thermistor fault

Dave

[electrofix]

cant be much its a very simple oven

Dave

[electrofix]

ok you say you have power

you have a live but do you have a neutral ?

Dave

[electrofix]

oh I agree but if i had the serial no i would be able to bring up all the correct components and the correct tech which may include known problems

also i assume by valve you mean the water distributor in the base that alternates flow between the upper and lower decks. This valve can’t close as such it just blocks flow to alternate bars. so its unliklely to be causing the problem. I have had these fail and the customer complaint is normally one or other decks dont seem to be cleaning well

Dave

[electrofix]

Kentish wrote:Is the condenser clear?
sounds to me like it’s not.

agree but assumed with the Bosch one it would be as itsw easy to clean, cant hurt to check

also possibility is blocked heater, have had a couple where the heater is blocked with a layer of lint at the bottom

Dave

[electrofix]

some fuses are fixed in the end caps and you have to get the complete fitting

Dave

[electrofix]

when it fails does the display die and come back on ?

was thinking poss bad socket

Dave

[electrofix]

if you dont let the steam out what happens ?

can it be restarted then ?

Dave

[electrofix]

that will be perfect

Dave

[electrofix]

have you got the serial no as there is more than one type of motor

Dave

[electrofix]

prob ok but do it on a meg ohms scale before you go further

Dave

[electrofix]

well you wont know till you replace fuse

if the manetron is arcing internally you wont know till its powered up with a new fuse

Diode will be fine. if they go its normally short circuit

caps can go short too but you getting a good reading on it

you have only measured the heater on the magnetron but now set multimeter on the highest ohm scale. one lead on either of the mags terminals and the other one on the metal casing. you should get no reading at all. if you get any mag is scrap

Dave

[electrofix]

you will be able to get a mag. can point you at that one

first do the joint

magnetrons have 2 power sources , a high voltage on the anode to earth and a low voltage high current for the heater. if the joints fail the heater wont be hot enough to work. had that fault loads. found it best to crimp and solder the joint as its often solid wire

Dave

[Author]

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