[helo_75]

lolololol

they get better, trust me

you just need to find a way you find easier

i take off the rear bearing, take the screws off the back panel to dispenser, and it allows you to take the drum out.. as jim says, then put the belt on the shaft, over the pulley and put the drum back in that way

not easy, and never , ever take the front off, thats a pig to put back

hotpoint trainin vid says take heater cover off, fan and undo the motor screws…. allowing the motor to twist

whichever way you do it, the drum needs to come out to put the extremely tight belt over it

NOT a nice job by any means!

maybe adam hornsby has some tips?

[helo_75]

now theres a question that didnt really need asking is it?

zanussi, every time

[helo_75]

im sure someone will have a duff motor with a good tacho if you look around

[helo_75]

a bit more info might be helpfull

looks like a bosch, but could u at least supply the er number from the inside of the door

then we’ll be able to help a bit more

thanx

[helo_75]

didnt u think to look online at all? maytag products are certainly more superior quality than most of the korean machines, although i have to say, my lg has been brilliant

the point is, and always will be, adam, is that because someone doesnt send you a brochure, doesnt make the machine rubbish, does it?

samsung wouldnt bother printing brochures if that was the case!!!

[helo_75]

me either

maybe 20 yrs hands on experience doesnt couint for nething nemore?

now we are talkin bs, arent we adam?

[helo_75]

well, because your fuse tripped, when you turned the unit back on , the clocks on automatic

so you need to set the clock to manual timer, so at least one or the other will work
theres a good chance its just your grill element, but you need to get your clock back to manual before youll know if the ovens working normally first

hth

[helo_75]

could be any number of reasons for that

pcb is most likely, but you should really be checkin defrost sensors/ thermal fuses/heaters etc then you could be sure

of course, you’ll know that if youve read all the other posts

hth

[helo_75]

well, hotpoint dont list one, thats for sure

erm, id make sure you can get the tacho out before you try obtaining a second hand one,ive never tried getting one out

never say never

[helo_75]

if your tacho is open circuit, its duff, thats yer problem

not available as a spare part, youll need a motor

hth

[helo_75]

hmm, tricky one that… id remove it if at all possible, the brittle plastic they use in the outer tub obliterates with no effort

if its got a welded tub, its more difficult, u could try taking the heater out (with plug out) and see if its there … not an easy task, and a pig to put back in, its best to change the heater most often

if its got a tub thats screwed together, it is possible to pull the lifter out from the drum by pulling it forward and it will come out, u may need to replace it, sometimes they break

that will allow you to look in the drum for the coin

either way, the coin needs to come out

hth

[helo_75]

Re: Admiral GC2224GEKB

gegsy wrote:Ok have moved to trade section as without any response from OP Im sure he is trade 😉 .
The mod to restrict the venting is BS as alf pointed out, I have no idea where that came from 😕
The recognised mod to the damper unit is a heater addition and the model and seriel number are paramount to identify correct part for the appliance.
Hope that clears that up 😀

Greg

😯

i am chilled, thanx

[helo_75]

and i repair a hell of a lot of em, do i normally post bs?

[helo_75]

erm.. maytag?

bs it isnt, but then hey, what do i know?

[helo_75]

oooh, have had a few of them doin that lately.. not sure what the cure is tbh, tried thermistor and board.. even tried the ‘mod’ of restricting air vents – none of which worked

anyone got the answer?

[Author]

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