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its not taking water, thats for sure
since theres water thereits a faulty valve/and/or wiring.. presostat or main pcb
valves are not uncommon to fail on these machines
like i said….
EVEN IF THE PUMP IMPELLOR WAS BROKEN – IF THE DRAIN HOLE WAS CLEAR THE FLOAT WOULD SWITCH THE HEATER OFF
shimples
its blocked!
simple scenario.. if it wasnt blocked and the pump was faulty, the float would activate and the heater would switch off, light comes on, no more water cos of no heat.. quick repair
blocked drain hole = no float switch activation, cos theres no water there, heater stays on, water condenses, builds up, pours into fan chamber and sprays on heater
its common sense guys..
no, its more likely the hole between the pump housing and the condenser is blocked… cured by poking something (like a tie wrap) through the hole,. bottom left hand side of the pump housing clearing the blockage
yep, if the tubs been changed.. and it sounds like it if its got pegs, rather than bolts ( is the bottom securing plate plastic?) then the right part num is 09200657
although it might be worh checking the motor wiring and/or seeing if the tacho magnets dropped off the back of the motor!
is this the baby with 2 pumps on and everyone changes the wrong one?
look again to check, the one u can see is the recirc pump!
if its one of the arcadia beasts with the ntc at the front of the heater duct, it will be the ntc, its more than common
i wouldnt concern yourself with it, ive seen them with no washers and no clip and theyve worked just fine!
f11 on an electronic dryer is failure to activate pump
however, an idc75 is a mechanical timer version, so im puzzled as to how u got that fault code>
can u check the model number ?anyway, its not switching the pump on, so u need to check the pump with a meter (at the rear in the grey plastic housing, bottom left)
ifthat works ok, its a faulty pcb im afraid (if it is an electronic machine?)
