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Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantIt will also require the filter board as it has blown the fusible link.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantThanks Dave
Unfortinatley I don’t think that they registered it (put in by kitchen fitters with the rest of the kitchen) so if I can’t mend the power board then they may be looking at over £200 in parts (ouch!).
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantAs I understand it I believe that the temperature sensors may be a different value between different part nos.
It is unlikley that the old heat pump would have destroyed the pcb as it is switched by a relay and is otherwise direct accross the mains – certaintly I have never seen a module taken out by this fault.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantAh yeah I see it now.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantThank you Dave
Unless I am missing it I can’t see how to get into service mode/function test in the document, also which are the YF1 buttons?
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantIn my experience I would say that it may well be a sticking heater relay.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
Participantelectrofix wrote:
https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/store/00611316Looks like this is another different valve to either of the part nos quoted by Rolf.
https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/store/00631199 should be the second of the origanol ones asked about in which case they are both DC valves
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantI don’t know for certain but it looks like they are the same except that the 11033896 comes with a plastic drip sheild.
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantAs long as the insulation resistance on the motor is good then the mere fact that it spins correctly means that the motor is good and that you will be looking at a board fault.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantWith these dishwashers it is quite common for the pressure switch (6996821) on the side of the motor to fail, it is 2 changeover switches in one unit, when the machine starts and as it first fills it looks to check that both of the switchs are in the empty position, once full with the pump running then it will be looking to check that they have both switched over to the full position.
I don’t know for certain that that will be your problem but in my experiance may be a good place to start.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantIf there is no feedback from the tacho then the machines default strategy is to run the motor at full speed and disable the heater, it also doesn’t give any error code to the user.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantI have got a login to SCC-Service.com but can’t find any links to Esam windows software. I have downloaded the android software and it looks like that is logging me in and it will show me the programming file for the machine.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantThat is the question that I am pondering over – it does look like the hardware and software covers all Whirlpool products rather than being a single use item, it will just depend on how much of the new Hotpoint/Indesit stuff is going to be Whirlpool based.
Also debating/wondering whether I should have a “Programming Charge” on top of the normal callout to help cover the cost of the hardware and if so how much to make it.Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantWhen I said “if you can login to the SCC website then you can use this software” I meant that the app has a login button within it that uses the same login.
Jem
Hollytree_Technical
ParticipantI had found an old document talking about using the Esam software on windows but couldn’t find the software.
I have tried downloading this to my tablet and it looks like if you can login to the SCC website then you can use this software, with a bit of hunting I have also found an Esam hardware adapter (C00377103) – I assume that this works with the android software as well as the windows one and there does appear to be a USB option for hardware connection within the app.The question now is is it going to be worth me taking the plunge and purchasing the adapter (best part of £250 from ASWO).
Jem
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