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These are the error codes for the new Hotpoint / Indesit Nucleus based washing machines.
A Nucleus based machine can be identified in one of three ways:- The parts list will specify Nucleus as the module type in the list and the exploded view.
- The service/serial number label has got a logo consisting of a black dot containing a white “N”
- The label on the module shows an atom logo.
The Fault Codes are as follows:
- F0 E5 = Unbalanced Load, (The 0 RPM speed is blinking together with the spin icon).
- F1 E1 = Wash Heating Element Feedback Fault.
- F3 E2 = Absence or out of range signal on frequency reading (linear pressure sensor only).
- F3 E3 = NTC washing sensor failure (all).
- F4 E2 = Wash heating element: relay short circuit / earth leakage.
- F4 E3 = Wash heating element: relay open / wash heating element feedback pin short circuit with Vdc.
- F4 E4 = Wash heating element earth leakage.
- F5 E2 = Door lock fails to cloes, PTC door lock triac open, mains frequency signal fault, mains power signal fault.
- F5 E3 = Door lock fails to open / IMP door lock triac short circuit / open circuit.
- F6 E1 = HMI (“Human Machine Interface” – Display Board) not communicating.
- F6 E2 = ACU not communicating with HMI (“Human Machine Interface”) or MCU (“Micro Control Unit”).
- F6 E3 = No Communication between MCU (“Micro Control Unit”) and ACU (Main and motor control microprocessors).
- F7 E1 = After 256 seconds motor stop not detected.
- F7 E1 = Motor Tacho Failure (UM).
- F7 E2 = MCU Fault.
- F7 E8 = Motor Overheating.
- F7 E9 = Motor not moving: Locked rotor or no signal from tachometer.
- F7 EA = One motor phase disconnected during motor run.
- F7 EC = Motor Overload.
- F8 E1 = Warning H20 / missing water / tap closed, (The warning H20 [red tap] icon and F8E1 Fault are showed).
- F8 E3 = Overflow.
- F8 E6 = Aquastop / Water leakage detected.
- F9 E1 = Pressure Switch empty condition not reached or drain pump jammed (valid for linear and status pressure switch).
- F9 E2 = Drain pump electrical fault or Aquastop / water leakage detected.
- FC E1 = Wifi module not communicating.
A couple of issues that don’t display codes:
- Door unlocking at start of cycle = Child protection routine – if the machine is not opened then the door should relock after a few seconds and continue the cycle.
- Cycle stopping a few seconds after turn on = pressure sensor not connected.
- Touch not working = Touch film damaged or not connected.
To Activate Demo Mode:
- Switch the machine On
- Switch the machine Off
- Press and Hold “Start/Pause” button for 5 seconds – a beep will confirm activation and if present the “Delicate” led will blink.
- Within 2 seconds press “Power On” to run it.
To Deactivate Demo Mode:
- Switch the machine On
- Switch the machine Off
- Press and hold “Start/Pause” button for 5 seconds – a beep will confirm deactivation.
- Within 2 seconds press “Power On” to confirm it.
Jem
It will also be worth noting for future reference that this uses a new “Nucleus” module which uses a new entirely different set of fault codes to all the previous Hotpoint/Indesit machines, also you must not use any indesit hardware key on them as they will not work and may well be damaged.
Jem
Here is the info from Hotpoint:
To deactivate the DEMO MODE:
Switch the washing machine ON and after switch it
OFF again.
Press and hold for «Start/Pause» button for 5
seconds, a beep will confirm Demo Mode
deactivation then, within 2 seconds press «Power
On» to exit definitelyJem
I assume that you have checked the door hinges? The door should not open beyond 90 degrees, if it does then the hinges are bent and that can cause the door to pop open (it doesn’t take much of a bend either).
Jem
Have you got any photos of the motor itself?
Going by the labelling it looks like it is an 80W motor but as it is a basic hood it wouldn’t be difficult to find a universal part to fit or even completly replace the motor and fan assembly with that from a different unit.Jem
It depends on what type of motor is fitted but if it is one of the fully enclosed black Zongshan motors of this type https://www.spareszone.co.uk/LCT015-lct015-chimney-hood-60cm/64900050-designair-motor-230v.htm then find out what wattage is fitted and have a look through spareszone and you should find what you need, if it is not that type then we will need more details to be able to assist.
The same goes for a lot of chinese and rebadged hoods in that you won’t find an official listing for them and instead have to find them by wattage or size.Jem
You may want to watch and listen carefully to it before you order a board as I have come accross a couple of ovens where they turn on only the bottom element till they get close to temperature then they will switch back and forth between the 2 but never have both on at the same time, I can only assume that it is something to do with energy efficiency and power draw.
Jem
A hall sensor (or Hall Effect Sensor to give it its proper name) is a semiconductor sensor that can detect the presence and magnitude of magnetic fields.
In the case of the LG machines they have a “Hall sensor assembly” on the direct drive motor, this has got 2 hall effect sensors within it and is used to detect the position and rotation of the motor so that they can drive the main motor windings in the correct order and accuratley sense the speed.Hope that explains it a bit.
Jem
Should have said that that assumes that you have checked the motor and wiring connections, you should get the same resistance between any pair of the motor connections.
Jem
I can’t say that I have had this particular fault myself but the main motor windings are almost bulletproof, I would suggest that it may be worth trying a hall sensor on it assembly on it as there are 2 or 3 sensors within the assembly and it struggles to drive the motor properly if one of them fails.
Jem
Have you checked the valve 11033896 on the side of the heat exchanger (a common failure) as it sounds like it may be trying to empty the exchanger tank and failing.
Jem
I had a think about it and I am sure that you are right, there should be a connector with a short white wire link between the two outside pins at that location, I have never had one come off or go missing so assuming that it has not fallen off inside the machine and it isn’t tied to a harness or pipe etc in that area then I would have to assume that someone has been meddling.
Jem
Sounds like the large X2 capacitor on the circuit board may be dying and no longer have enough power to operate both the compressor and the lamp.
Jem
Adding fuse clips and a fuse is part of my plan for repairing this hob, I think that it is only the IGBT that is blown on the hob though I will change the rectifier as well which will hopefully be a much cheaper fix for them.
Rangemaster use a 20A fuse – funnily enough I have to change one of their boards tommorrow for a communications problem.
Jem
