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Yes I said that I did not know if it would work and that I was doing it as a temporary fix so that they could keep the food fresh (they are a self isolating family) till I could find out what the official fix is and that there was no guarantee that it would work, I will probably suggest that they put a thermometer into the unit as the display only shows the set point temperature not the actual temperature.
I am not sure what this sensor is for (what reason) as it is foamed in (probably around the evaporator area of the back wall) as the other sensor is in a visible holder inside the cabinet.
Jem
I have just had a quick look at the parts list and it looks to be basically the same machine as I did last week with the same symptom only mine was a washer only but it may give you a pointer.
Jem
It had not thrown any codes by the time that I left it yesterday, indeed it appeared to be running as if nothing had happened so I told the customer to keep an eye on it and see what develops.
Jem
This unit is only 6 years old – I remember hearing/reading that in some makes you can do something to eliminate the sensor but not sure if this one of them which is why I decide to disconnect it (kill or cure).
Jem
Typical of the last week or so of work for me it doesn’t look like it was entirely what we were expecting, the fusible resistor was not blown and listening carefully I could here a repetitive peep from the display board indicating that the power supply was stuck in a restart loop, having had a slightly deeper look at the pcb on the bench tonight I have found that the SMPS chip is fine and that I have only need to replace one shorted diode (D7 on the output side of the SMPS transformer) and now have 5V running round the board. Tomorrow I will refit it and confirm if that is all that was wrong.
Jem
Thank you for the info.
Like you I am suspecting a straight forward SMPS chip and resistor failure but with the sort of luck that I have had over the last couple of days I could almost guarantee that it would be a cascade failure of something else taking it out if I didn’t go armed with the info.Jem
I don’t have the wiring diagram for that one unfortunately but from photos it looks like the same chassis/unit as used on some old Hotpoint cookers and ovens in which case it should be wired as follows:
S1 = Live
S2 = cooling Fan
P1 and 2 to Grill Common
P2 = Top Oven Switch Pin 4
4 = Top Oven Switch Pin 6The connection between S1 and P1 is shown as being switched by the top oven selector switch.
Hope that helps
Jem
What model of cooker is it for?
According to the datasheet that I have got those 2 regulators should be direct pin for pin replacements for each other, the only difference is that the signal contacts are rated for 1A on the new one instead of 100mA.
The datasheet on Maddocks indicates that you may need a link between P1 and S1 but this same note is also on the old one.Jem
Here is an oddball thought for you – I don’t know if the machine that you are looking at has the possibility of the issue that I am about to describe but it may be worth looking at – check the sump hose just above the eco ball as there may be a seal there that should seal against the ball when the ball is in the up position.
I had a machine a couple of years ago (completely different model) where the customer complaint was that only some of the clothing was still wet/not properly spun out after the end of the cycle, she had had Miele out a couple of times but the only fault that they could find was that the computer said that there was still water in the drum after the end of the cycle but did nothing else to fix the issue. When I looked at the machine the only issue that I could find was that the seal just above the eco ball was wrinkly and not sealing against the ball any more, after we replaced it the customers complaint went away.My guess as to the theory/reason behind the seal is that when the machine drains it “sucks” the water in the sump hose down more than the final water level, when the pump stops the water higher up in the waste pipe returns by gravity to even out the level within the machine, it is my theory that they may be using this water to raise the eco ball and seal the water off from the drum area which could potentially cut down on the potential of stagnant water smell as well as ensuring that during the next fill all the detergent ends up in the drum with absolutely none in the sump.
Jem
Heads up that you may be able to apply for the scheme from today. Just recieved this in an email from HMRC
The scheme is now open and every eligible customer has been given a date from when they can claim, between 13 and 18 May. You won’t be able to apply before your claim date, but you will be able to make a claim after that day.
Don’t worry if you can’t remember the date you were given, you can check again by logging into the online checker at any time.Jem
I have not stopped working either, I am just verifying that they don’t have any symptoms within the household before going.
When I am there then I am sticking to social distancing and trying to touch the fewest surfaces etc as possible to avoid the risk of contamination but after that it is just down to trying to take sensible and reasonable steps.
When I have been into any of the nursing homes then they have all been checking temperatures before you can enter and then you have to wash hands, I will also put on a pair of gloves and in several cases have been offered face masks as well though as the machines were in separate laundry rooms where I was left to it I was happy to work without.
I also carry a bottle of hand sanitizer in my bag and have more on the van as well as disinfectant spray and paper towel should the need arise.
Apart from that like Dave said it is down to reasonable precautions and your own judgement of the risks.Jem
I have seen a few of these where the control relay for the element has burnt out internally leaving the heater permanently on (with an empty drum you can usually see an orange glow inside at the back if this is the case), it does tend to flash all lights if this is the fault.
Jem
Have you checked for a broken wire in the door hinge? I was looking at a diagram for a similar machine and it looks like the pump is switched on the neutral side by KN2 pin 7 (Live comes to it via the door switch).
The antiflood switch provides an alternative route for the neutral without having to go back to the control board.Jem
Has anyone tried using the wheel off the bracket that Murv suggested? If not then I may have a job to give it a go on.
Jem
