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More often in my experience they leave their crispy fried bodies behind.
Looking at the diagram I agree with Dave, it has to be board as the power supply chip receives power irrespective of what the door lock is doing.
Jem
Not sure if this is a single or double drawer unit but the things to look at are as follows (I am assuming a double draw unit here but the principal is the same for the single draw and is based on my experience of similar models):
Power comes in to the chassis pcb (located under the lower draw at the back corner of the unit), this board is responsible for flood detection and mains filtering, it is also responsible for switching on the mains power to the draws and in this case has its own 24V power supply, if this fails then nothing else will work.
The mains power is fed to the draw modules via a built in resistor on the heater plate in the bottom of the draw, if this has blown then check that it is not getting hot after you replace it with the draw in standby as I have seen a failed diode on a draw module cause a continuous 1 amp draw.
In previous versions the lower draw would provide the power for the chassis module circuit but it looks like this chassis module outputs 24V to both draw modules so I would check that that voltage is present (I would prioritise the lower draw as it used to be that if the lower draw failed then it wouldn’t power the upper draw but if the upper draw failed then the lower would still work).
If it is a double draw unit then you should have the luxury of being able to swap the 2 draw modules as they should be the same.
Jem
Here is what the manual says about that code:
E22:
Difficulty in water fill during drying or drying condenser clogged (anti-boiling pressure switch closed on “FULL”) – Drain hose kinked; filter clogged: drying condenser clogged; drain pump faulty; pressure switches faulty; wiring; main circuit board defective; current leakage between heater and ground.
The sensor reading looks to be about right as it says in the book 5K at 25C
Jem
Work is pretty manic here at the moment – I am doing a 6 day week this week to try and keep up with a large chunk of next week already booked. It seems that all the holiday lets and cafe’s have opened up and not checked anything.
Jem
I have had several jobs from them over the last few years and once the rate is agreed then they have always paid on time, they often ask for an inspection/quote depending on the customers cover first which you send back to them via their portal (the portal is a little clunky but works).
Alll in all I would say that they are one of the nicer ones to deal with.Jem
Is the fan definitely running? It would work fine with the top and bottom elements even if the fan wasn’t running but would just be a bit slower to heat, I have also regularly had people tell me that their fan is running when it is actually jammed solid and that they are only hearing the cooling fan not realising that it is a separate motor.
Jem
The one I did this afternoon was the same issue – replaced diode on site making the customer extremely happy.
I have also just added it to the PCB repair thread.Jem
Beko 2018/2019 onwards Washing Machine and Washer Dryer main board repair.
The common fault with these is a no life fault, this is usually caused by diode D7 being a dead short (image below).The origanol diode is an SR110 which is a 1A diode but it may be a good idea to use a higher rated diode like a SBYV27-150 (RS Part No: 629-5232) or equivalent.
Jem
I have one to look at today which I suspect to be the same issue so will try and get a photo for the PCB repair thread.
Jem
If you send me an email address then I can send you a copy of the information that I picked up at the last conference.
As this is one of their early ones you can try configuring the zones in the wrong order which may help narrow down which one is faulty.Jem
Page 47 section 10.17.1.2 suggests that it may be deliberately activating the valve due to water level.
I would suggest that if there is nothing visual on the main board that you unplug the valves one at a time till to isolate which one is at fault and then change the corresponding TRIAC on the module (assuming that you don’t mind a bit of soldering.
Pages 36 to 38 explain the theory of operation for the drain valve if you are not familiar with it.Jem
I have not seen this particular machine but have dealt with several commercial units.
My guess is this: It sounds like the problem is that the water valve is receiving power when the machine is not expecting it to, the drain valve (assuming that it is the valve version and not a regular pump) is closed by the incoming water pressure, this causes the machine to start registering the incoming water on the level sensor (and maybe even by the flow meter on the valve) so the machine realises that there is a fault and then applies power to the drain valve control valve which releases the water pressure from the valve allowing the drain valve to open and drain the water after which it switches off the control valve which causes the whole cycle to start again.
In theory it should be going into alarm mode.
I would suggest taking a good look at the main board for any damaged components.
There is a service manual for it here http://verwaltung.privatklinik-schlossstrasse.de/wp-content/uploads/pdf-uploads/Waschmaschine_Bedienungsanleitung_english.pdfJem
