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I use the Fluke 1587 as my daily meter and apart from needing a couple of sets of test leads it hasn’t let me down at all in the last 11 years.
Jem
Check the tacho on the motor as if it can’t sense the motor speed it will just run the motor at full speed and disable the element.
Jem
I just today had a similar machine doing the same thing, turned out to be a faulty tacho on the motor, apparently if it can’t sense the motor speed it will run the motor to full speed and disable the heater.
Jem
I have had a couple of these where the blower motor (mounted in the rear air duct) fan bearings have seized, remember that it won’t “heat” like a traditional dryer so I find that you are better off pulling out the lower filter while it is running to check for airflow and to see if the evaporator is getting cool to the touch.
Jem
Well I went back last night and fitted some new bits to the ice maker and a new solenoid for the dispenser flap in the door and then discovered a couple more issues/problems.
1: It seems to be activating the primary water valve once a second constantly (it doesn’t activate either the ice or secondary water valve till I ask it to), I am assuming that this is not meant to happen and that it will be the main board at fault?
2: If I select either of the ice modes on the display then it activates the flap solenoid even if I am not asking for ice (it doesn’t activate the auger till I press the lever), again I suspect a main board fault.Can anyone confirm or deny my suspicions above?
Thank you
Jem
I may be wrong but something in the back of my mind says to check the heater relay to see if it is stuck on.
Jem
If it comes up on a dry cycle then take a water valve with you as in my experience it is almost always the dryer valve going open circuit after a few minutes use.
Jem
Personally I have not ever seen a stator fail on one of these – not to say it can’t happen but not common in my experience, the stator has got three connections and you should get the same resistance reading between any two.
I would suggest trying the hall sensor assembly (connect part no:5045382364024) first as I have seen a few of those fail and they are cheap.
Jem
The TOC 3872079029 is the Cooling motor cut in TOC for the oven whereas the others are the overheat cut outs, You should find that one of the 2 blue (I think) wires goes direct to the cooling fan and the other back to power (possibly Neutral but maybe Live). The 2 white wires are the little TOC heater which cuts it in whenever you turn the oven on and once the chassis is above the temperature rating of the TOC it should keep the fan going till the chassis is below the rating of the TOC.
I would defiantly change the TOC as that will almost defiantly be gone. If the selector switch contacts give a resistance of more the 10 ohms then I would look at changing that as well (I have had an appliance where both were required).
Jem
Was the TOC part number 3872079029 or one of the other ones?
If it was that TOC then check the selector switch as the TOC has its own mini heater in it which activates the switch, this heater is switched on/off by the selector switch so you may need to check that.
Even if the duct in the technical bulletin that Dave posted was blocked I would still expect the cooling fan to run so would think that an electrical fault was more likely.Jem
I had a similar machine recently that was doing the same thing where I found out the hard way what the issue was, it turned out that there was food/detritus in the air trap that was floating up and blocking off the air to the pressure switch when it filled with water, when I tried blowing through it while the machine was empty it was clear but when I put a load of water in the sump and forced air quickly back through the chamber a load of crud came out into the water.
For those of you wondering how I came to this conclusion it was after changing the module with no success (expensive mistake) that I got into a more technical diagnostic method as in the steps below:
1. I used the frequency function on my meter to find out how fast the inlet turbine was spinning (11 Hertz in my case)
2. I found in one of the service manuals that it is 217 pulses per litre of water from the turbine.
3. The manual states that the pressure switch should have activated by 2.5 Litres of water (static fill) after which it goes to dynamic fill (wash pump on) and continues to fill to 4 Litres.
4. Using this info I calculated the following:
2.5 Litres x 217 Pulses = 542.5 Static Fill Pulses
542.5 Static Fill Pulses / 11 Hertz = 49.3 Seconds for static fill
5. I had about 90 Seconds of static fill before it would error out which equated to 4.6 Litres of water.When it used the meter to monitor the pressure switch and manually filled the machine I found that it took about 3.5 Litres to get it to activate due to the crud in the pressure chamber.
Hope that helps
Jem
It sounds like it is the floor illumination LED – I have seen several of these cause this problem, usually the customer doesn’t want to replace the harness so I just cut it off at the PCB and the machine works fine.
Jem
