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Just a thought – does it need to a functioning non return valve? The pumps only bat the water out so maybe if the non return valve is not sealing off properly the water might be returning into the machine just as quick as it is batted out by the pump.
P.S. If it makes you feel better I had a similar machine soon after I started in the trade with the same issue and I never did fix it, a new non return valve was my next guess on it but the customer scrapped it first.
It is certainly a strange set-up and not one that I have encountered personally, looking at the diagrams suggests that one of the fan relay connections on the board is routed directly to the L pin on the board. If this is the case then it matters as to which way round the wires are connected to this relay, the fan should come from pin 5 so make doubly sure that this is the case (looks like it may go bang if it was wrong so unlikely).
I would also check P1-1 on the selector switch as this looks like it may be the signal to start the fan.Jem
It looks like the fuse goes to one of the switch contacts on the relay, my guess is that the other side of those switch contacts go to a bridge rectifier and then the motor output drivers (the drivers will be mounted on the heat sink, possibly also so will be the bridge rectifier).
The relay will probably be being used to allow it to switch off most of the circuit board when it is in standby.
I would suggest that at least some of the output drivers will be dead and the bridge rectifier. You may be lucky and find that it had just been heavily overloaded or a voltage spike etc took it out but I would check the motor carefully before you think about reusing it.Jem
My suspicion based on its location, orientation and the fact that the part number on the label comes back as a motor control PCB is that it may be the remains of a small fuse possibly in line to the transformer.
Like Dave said the designator next to it should confirm it but if not then a photo of the rear of the board would help with tracing it out.
If it is as I suspect a fuse then I would suggest checking the motor output semiconductors for shorts as they don’t blow like that for no reason.Jem
I have had a couple of the Miele dishwashers recently with problems with the pressure switch on the side of the motor. One of them even gave the symptoms that you describe, if I remember correctly one of the two switches in it was not activating properly due to sludge in the diaphragm, as I was unable to clean the switch I replaced it.
Jem
I have seen the dryer PCB cause a no display on a similar model machine, you can try disconnecting it to see if it lights up correctly.
Jem
I would check the main board – common issue here https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/trade-member-forums/trade-technical-spare-parts-forums/trade-technical-enquiries/48638-simple-pcb-repair-tips?p=861267#post861267
Jem
It looks to me like it is a “rivet nut”, if you don’t have the proper tool then if you have a hex shaped hole then you may be able to use a bolt to rivet it in place otherwise if you may be able to improvise with a long bolt and a nut.
Jem
You will need to clean the top inside edge of the lower front panel in the vicinity of the door hinges, also check if the drainage channel in the corners below the hinge are blocked, these are the usual culprit on most commercial dishwashers/glasswashers.
Jem
I am also getting it with all makes of oven and all wattages of lamp, I have had several where it has blown the glass of the lamp to bits.
Jem
It seems to be a general problem as I have also been having it with Maddocks lamps as well, even had a few of the philips ones do it.
Jem
If I remember rightly the later Bosch dishwashers have been known to have a lot of issues with the hinge bearings breaking (not seen it myself but remember reading about it on here) so it may be worth checking those as well otherwise I agree with Dave that it will be bent hinges.
Jem
