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C00199656 is the current Hotpoint part number for this one. Connect show ELE4115 as being the same part but in their bag.
Jem
trotter wrote:
1. I’m pretty sure they’re ok …..I assumed that you had checked them but it is always worth making sure.
trotter wrote:
2. ?? not sureIf this is an induced electrical noise issue then seperating the signal cables as much as possible could well reduce the issue.
trotter wrote:
3. I am fairly sure I did that and because the cooling fan is running with the lamp on I didn’t see that as a potential issue.When I suggested this one I had assumed that the cooling fan didn’t run in the lamp only position but if it does then it is far less likley to be the cause.
trotter wrote:
4. Definitely tried disconnecting that cable and no difference.If you have tried it with it disconnected at the switch end then I would also try with it disconnected at the board end, in fact I would try disconnecting all the low voltage cables/sensors that you can and see if it still does it.
It could be an earth fault on the supply I guess, given that it effects both ovens REALLY strange and annoying fault!!! What sort of earting system do they have in the house – are they on an underground supply cable or is it overhead line?
Do you have a photo of the module (and/or even the inside of the control panel) available as I can’t find one on line and I am trying to work out how much control of things it has got. It sounds like some sort of switch filter capacitor may have failed, if the board has got control of the individual elements then I would try disconecting them one at a time to try and narrow down if it is linked to a specific line.
Jem
That definatley sounds like an odd one but there are a couple of thoughts going through my mind on it, without a wiring diagram I will have to make some assumptions from the parts list and based my suggestions on that:
It sounds like it may be an induced electrical noise issue on the low voltage side or that the selector switch is shorting out the low voltage supply briefly.1. Make sure that all the ground wires to the board are properly and tightly connected – a loose ground could cause some strange issues for the module.
2. Make sure that all the low voltage control wires are as far as possible from any mains voltage wires and if possible only cross at 90 degrees.
3. Try disconnecting the cooling fan and see if it still does it (any coil will potentially create a noise electrical spike when first powered up).
4. Disconnect the low voltage control cable from the selector switch end and see if it still trips when you turn the switch.Jem
If you can turn the fan freely by hand and it is getting 240v to it then I would say that it has a shorted turn on the coil, you can’t measure it on an ohm meter as it will have such a small effect on the resistance but it destroys the magnetic field and stops it running. The easiest way to check/confirm if you are not sure is to connect it directly to power with a fly lead and see if it spins properly – I suspect it won’t.
Double check your PNC as it doesn’t show up.Jem
What voltage is the fan getting?
What is the PNC number of the oven as there are several versions of that model number and not all have control boards.Jem
Assuming that it is the mainly oblong pressure switch (with rounded ends) and six wires then the module looks for both halfs of the switch to show empty before it will allow it to fill.
Check your email as you should have mail.
Jem
If you can let me have your email address and I will send you what info I have got.
My initial guess would be that it is the pressure switch on the side of the motor (it seems to be the one part that I have to change more than anything else on these).
Jem
I would expcet the condenser fan to be wired in parallel with the compressor so if neither is working then the PCB is not sending the power back to tell it to work.
Does the PCB have a large rectangular capacitor on it? If so then it would be worth checking it and changing it if it is more than 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} off of its marked value, it is quite possible that it has enough power to run the processor and lights but not the relay.The only way that the NTC would be likley to stop the compressor is if the module thought that it was already at temperature, if there is an alarm light showing then it is probably reading the temperature okay.
Jem
I would expect to hear the klixon at least but have come accross a couple of extremly quiet locked compressors so would not guarentee to hear it hum – they will often be hotter than normal to touch.
I don’t know what the control system is on that model and would need the 9 digit model code to look it up but if it is a mechanical thermostat then you can ohms test between the line pin on the plug and the common on the compressor to see if it is working.
If your tester has got some crocodile clips for the test leads then I would try connecting them to the neutral and common on the compressor and then turn the fridgeon to see if you have voltage to it or not.Jem
Assuming that the overheat klixon is okay then I would put a amp clamp on the power (ideally just on the feed to the compressor but on the mains input if not) and see what it draws, if you see more than a couple of amps flow for several seconds at a time when you know that the compressor is supposed to be running then it would indicate a seized compressor – it may well draw a high current for 5 or 10 seconds before the klixon cuts out and then take 30 seconds to a minute (maybe more) before it trys again.
Jem
1 minute syndrom on Bosch/Neff/Siemens is a “time out error”, essentialy it means that a process has either taken too long or failed to complete, this could be fill, drain, heat or anything else – you don’t treat it as an actual error code but more as an indicator light.
According to the parts list on Conect this is one of the later dishwashers (Bosch SMS series) so I would have expected an actual error code to be displayed.
Personally I haven’t seen a faulty heater relay on these but have seen plenty of duff heaters, also check the pumps as if there is anything stuck in them then it can cuase it to think that it hasn’t filled/drained correctly.Jem
I still can’t order from them or see stock either.
Ever since they went to email only customer service the quickest response that I have ever gotten to even the simplest of querys is 3 working days – not a good look for me when I have customers nagging for an answer as to why the part for their machine has not shipped yet.I used to use them as the main supplier but their attitude and lack of care/response means that I am looking elsewhere first (and as I can’t order with them at the moment they don’t even get a look in).
Jem
You will usually find a wiring diagram tucked into the console on most of these machines which can help a lot if you are stuck.
The first thing that I would check would be that the belt is not snapped as that is the most common thing that will stop the machine, after that it would be the door switch.
The only thermal fuse that would stop it is the one on the exhaust duct (thats the white one with only 2 wires the other is a temperature thermostat that you can ignore) – you can ignore all the sensors on the heater duct as they only deal with the heat.
I have never seen the fuse that Dave mentioned fitted to a tumble dryer, as far as I know they are only fitted to the washing machines.
If the motor buzzes but doesn’t turn when the start switch is pressed then you may need to check the centrifugal switch on the motor (not seen one fail myself), if the switch is fine and it buzzes then it may need a new motor (I have had to change several for this – also get a set of fan blades as more often than not you have to break the old ones to get them off).Hope that helps.
Jem
