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Re: hotpoint timers
jimbo2207 wrote:The replacement timer for all WM’s (digital) is 1603787. There were variations, but they were interchangeable, although the wash programs might have slight differences. The replacement motor for all of them now is Digi FHP 800/1200, part number 1604822. And yes, that means that you can soup any of them up to 1200 rpm
Is this strictly true??
The early 410/415 digital timer, 1601603 for a WM11 for instance, have PCB’s with connections for full size spade terminals ( two white wires ) at the front top edge of the PCB as well as at the bottom front edge, also completely different connections along the bottom edge to the 1603787.
As far as I am aware there has been no ‘conversion kit’ for these early 410/415 units.however I stand to be corrected. 🙂
iadom wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
Funny how things come back to you after a pint or four. There’s a chap in Castleford called John Bunting (Sorry, NO idea of the number) who came up with a puller specifically for the 6205 outer race. It was a sort of twist fit insert into the outer race, then you shot the bolt and sleeve into place and IT WORKED!! NO spring loaded collets or any of that nonsense. I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.Honestly, it was one of those simple ideas that when you see it you go “Why didn’t I think of that?”
Regards,
Penguin.As you say the simple ideas are the best. 😉
I consider the later bearing removal/fitting kit one of the best £65’s I
have ever spent.
I do not use it to remove the bearings regardless of their condition. I use the large drift that was part of the original Hotpoint supplied bearing removal kit before it was superceded by the kit in the red plastic box. It matters not wether you use the removal tool or a drift, if the bearing is going to collapse then it will, drift or drawer makes no difference, but the drift & the Birmingham screwdriver is quicker. 🙂If the bearing collapses I remove all the rubble, broken bearings etc.
I then use the spring loaded colletts, I place them inside the bearing outer shell, but before I insert the threaded shaft I prise the colletts open at one end then insert a small bolt or pin ( I actually use the small pin that was used to mount the last design of pecker on the GEC/GDA motor. It is a perfect fit and using this I manage to draw out around 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the bearing outer casings. Only if it splits do I have to resort to ‘other’ measures, but I would never dream of putting extremes of heat anywhere near a nylon drum. I also clean the inside of the alloy collar as best I can before attempting to draw out the bearing shell.I have had a much harder steel threaded shaft for this kit made by a friend with a small engineering firm.
In my best Blue Peter voice, “here’s one I did earlier”, this morning in fact. Came out as clean as a whistle, and this machine had thrown the belt off due to the state of the front bearing. Even on the odd occasion that the outer shell splits, whats left is much easier to remove than the whole casing.
you can see the small bolt in situ, using this method, the much malinged ‘collets’ will never slip out of the bearing shell.
Re: What causes white powder in the back of Hpt condeser dry
I have seen this often, sometimes the heater/fan cover is full of wet fluff type gunge. I wonder if it could be caused by the user putting very heavy newish towels/bedding etc that have not been spun well enough. Could the moisture levels be to high for the heat exchanger to cope with in this instance. ❓
Re: Hotpoint WF series / Ariston query
WF series have the same drum etc as WMA but use the Merloni type modules and eeproms.
As do the Ariston AVL/AVD range and a few others including some Curry’s exclusives.
Re: Getting the belt on the tension pulley – Hpt condenser d
Which models of Hotpoint condensor dryers have a stretchy belt ?
Looking at Partfinder even the 2004 production condensor dryers have a jockey pulley.
In fact most of the diagrams show only one pulley and the parts list the qty as one pulley, but the 1701141 belt I changed on Friday on a TDC30 definately went over two pulleys.Re: Getting the belt on the tension pulley – Hpt condenser d
Phidom wrote:I have resorted to loosening the motor screws to gain a few millimetres extra slack when fitting these.
I do that with the large dryer with the ‘Stretchy belt’ as well.
Re: Getting the belt on the tension pulley – Hpt condenser d
pmb wrote:dryer belts. a couple of minutes in A BOWL OF HOT WATER SEEMS TO DO THE TRICK
Yes, but what about the belt. 😀
Re: Look at what your missing
Well, I did my first call via repairs@ in a roundabout way today. They actually landed here via washerhelp.co.uk which I notice is run by none other than andy_art_trigg 🙂
They seemed to be well satisfied with a Hotpoint 161498 armature and brush repair for £65.00. 8)
Unfortunately they had been seriously ripped off by someone from Yellow pages. When they showed my his 1/4 page advert I noticed that the address given was in fact a house on one of the roughest council estates in Rochdale. 😥
Re: BT upgrade
Martin wrote:
iadom wrote:
Get my 2 meg from NtlNTL???…Oh Dear!!!I don’t know if you are a UKW subscriber?..if so you may have read yesterdays post on that lot :rotfl:
afraid not, but I am a long time member of http://www.cableforum.co.uk so have probably heard it all many times before over the past few years.
As I said you need to be in a good area and I am, hardly had any problems at all in over 4 years, TV, phones and BB are excellent.
A large part of the London area is known to have problems though.
Re: BT upgrade
Get my 2 meg from Ntl, had a free upgrade over a month ago, nice (free) new shiny silver Samsung set top box. £24.99 per month and unlike ADSL’s 50-1, I get 20-1 contention rates. With Ntl you just have to lucky enough to live in a part of the country that was cabled by C&W, one of the better original network installations. 😀
Re: Public Liability Insurance
I’ve always been with the Co-op. 🙂
Premium has been £110 for several years, for £2m.
As far as I can recall, I have only had two claims, both for laminated floors and both ‘trying it on’. Is it my fault that the ‘Heath Robinson’ plumbing of a kitchen fitter fails a month after my visit. 👿
Unfortunately my insurers will not discuss the outcome of these claims but my premiums have not gone up so I am not too bothered.Re: Bosch Dishwasher not draining
This is a common fault on Hotpoint DF61 & DF62 , really bugged me until I sussed what was causing it. Are they the same machine?
Re: Scousers vs Cocknies
Dave_Conway wrote:I watched the O’Sullivan vs Ebdon snooker 1/4 final instead 😯
Had me glued I can tell you, talk about mind games 😆
Dave.
Mind games, or bending the rules to their extremes, in one game Ebdon took longer over a break of 12 than O,Sullivan took for a 147 break, in 1997 👿
He should have been docked at least one game for deliberate slow play.
Re: Hoover 1200 NW – All Lights a Flashin Baby ! Help !
One simple way to check the heater is to set the machine on a wash programme, then after about five minutes, check your electricity meter. Make sure you have no other high usage appliances, kettles, ovens, immersion heaters etc running. If the heater is working the disc in the meter will be going round quite fast. If the meter is the later digital one then the red neon will be flashing faster than normal.
