Forum Replies Created
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AuthorPosts
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johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Hi Paul,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I have been without broadband for a day and a half, god loves nthell……
IIRC the bottom boards dont need programming, an easy way to tell is in the description of the board, if it says “sam” or “basic” anywhere in the description it is a blank board.Regarding whether the board is faulty or not is another thing, in cases like this the only way to be sure is to check the resistance reading of everything and if all is fine it must be the board.
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool AWM049 int. washer
Mike has a point about the pump not getting the full 240v, I have saw a timer problem causing reduced voltage to the pump on more than one occasion.
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
The ccu you fitted is only used on 12nc 854534715410 Looking on SIOS I see that thee is 7 different versions of this dishwasher, 5 of them have the control board in the top of the door and two have it fitted in the base. According to the part number you have fitted you have one of the models with the ccu in the base. The other version that has the ccu in the base 854534715710 which has a ccu part number 481221478761
And yes you are right, you always need a 12nc on any Whirlpool appliance especialy when you need electronics.
Johnjohnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Have you got the 12nc number for the machine and the part number for the ccu you fitted.
Some of these machines have blank ccu available so it could be you have fitted one of these.John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool HDW1011WG 10KG bearings.
Whirlpool engineers don’t fit bearings they would fit a back half and possibly a drum so the parts would be about £500 going by the inflated prices they charge. About £600 would be the Whirlpool price.
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: W’Pool American F/F chattering control panel
back board, user board or both depending on the serial number. There is a massive post in the public forums all about this a kit is available in the shop which can repair this problem and is a lot cheaper if it works on your model.KIT IS HERE
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: In search of the fourth cord
Thats a big bloody generalization there Jim 😆 , some of us moved down here and are like him.
I think you confused him with this highly technical tip
one-shot thermostat is wired into the control
module’s Neutral supplyThere are a few on here who don’t know what a nuetral supply is.
Seriously though, I cringe every time he posts….
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool HDW1011WG 10KG bearings.
Unfortunately the spider is part of the drum. I am still using last years SIOS and the retail for the drum is £252 incl VAT so by the time you add the genuine seal and pattern bearings you are talking just over £300 for the parts.
This machine was over £800 when new so would be worth fixing and would take you 90 mins max. If they dont want it fixing get the machine from them, stick a new seal and some bearings in it and put it in your garage, Then start a business washing all the king size duvets in the street :rotfl:
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: WHIRLPOOL 3RLEQ8000KQ2 Yankee top loader
Sorry Chezza, you are correct, I misread and thought the problem was not emptying 😳 .
The clutch is the most probable cause of no spin now you have changed the motor coupling. However I have came across a few of these where the “block basket drive” which is below the agitator wears causing the inner drum to drop and rub against the outer tub, if this happens it will cause the clutch to slip. Usualy when this happens you can slide your hand in between the bottom of the agitator and drum. To confirm if this part is faulty take out the agitator, undo the big nut which is attached to the block, lift out the drum and check to see if the block still has a lip at the top end. If not it has probably worn away causing the drum to drop, you will also notice circular score marks on the tub below where the drum sits.
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool ADG644IX
It is probably HIS control module that is faulty 😈
Faults F6 and F7 are usualy down to no water supply, faulty flowmeter or faulty water indicator switch.
For the control module to to suffer corrosion would be a bit unusual as it is situated at the top of the door….
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: WHIRLPOOL 3RLEQ8000KQ2 Yankee top loader
In between the motor and the pump there is a cream plastic spacer, looks like a little top hat, has this fallen out when you were changing the coupling??
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: whirlpool t/loader (commercial)
part number is 481932528035
John
johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Hda washing machine???? HELp!!
Ouch!!!
Tub part number is 41019699 £166.61 retail ex VAT and if drum is required the part number is 41014208 at £172.97 retail ex VAT.
Johnjohnmac11
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool HDW1011WG 10KG bearings.
Hi Steve,
Generaly they are not a bad machine, I have done a few back half changes over the years but not a major cause of problems and a bearing change is an easy job for a pro. According to SIOS the bearings are 6206 and 6307 which I see you can get from http://www.simplybearings.co.uk for about £13 for the pair.
John
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