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Re: whirlpool side by side help
cdsc wrote:Hi i am new to this forum.
My Whirlpool S20DRWW30-A/G side by side American style fridge freezer just packed in, two weeks after the warrenty ran out.
It is displaying the flashing — for freezer temperature when you switch on the relay clicks and the compressor is running and getting hot but the freezer temperature is only droping 2 degs or so over 3 hours. Any ideas on what might be wrong I dont want to spend £180 on a new pcb if it’s something else. Is there any way to by-pass or test the pcb ?
Any help much appreciated, anyone got a schematic/servicing manual.
chrisIf the compressor is running and getting hot, you may find it needs a regas, if you turn the power off, take the back panal off inside the freezer and see if the bars have an even spread of frost across them, if not, and the compressor is running, you will prob. need a refrigeration engineer.
If they’re only 1/2 frozen, it could be blocked. Also you will see 2 wires either side of the back just below the fan, you may find one of those connections has come loose. ( for the defrost heater ) they will be 1 wire on there own, either side.Re: thinking of a miele tumble dryer – why the short guarent
“wow”
you managed to fit miele and white knight in the same sentence
miele’s are definatly woth paying that little bit extra for!!Re: Newbie
Most of all. Enjoy yourself!
I love this job, you get to meet lots of “interesting” people, Im still working for someone at the moment, but I love it!
You get a few stressfull jobs, but if your only planning on 3 a day to start with, then you have all day to concentrate on them and spend time working on that machine and doing a proper job without the stress of time.
When you have 8 jobs a day and your last is a Fisher and Paykel where you fit a part and can’t get the drawer to fit back…
now thats what i call fun! 😛Re: indesit is70c
hi there, there maybe something caught in the front fan, like a piece of plastic, etc.
not familier with indesit so I cant say how you get to it!
If its like the whirlpool / white knights, if you take the condencer out of the front, you may be able to gain access from there, to see if anything is caught.
power off if you do have to take it to bits!Re: Whirlpool American style F/F Fault
yes, they are the temp sensors. – you wont notice any burnt tracks on the board, i’ve never seen any anyway.
if there is no power to the compressor, ive always changed the board and its always worked for me. – unless any one else can offer any more ideas.
If the temperature in the fridge and freezer is the same, you should get the same resistance reading from the sensors, on the board the connector with 4 wires are the sensors.
not to sure what the reading should be, not got my folder to hand. check between the brown and blue wires. – they wont bell test you need to put your meter on 20 ohms or 200 ohms.
power off when checking 🙂
Re: Whirlpool American style F/F Fault
in the fridge at the top, is there 2 temperature controls, on for the freezer and one for the fridge?
If there isn’t it more than likely is a board fault, or a loose wire to the board.The temperature sensors very rarely go wrong.
Re: Vented vs consenser tumble dryers
there is not much difference, apart from as you said, no hole in the wall, just a bottle to empty.
If you had an airvented, you can buy a condensor box, which is just a plastic tub which the hose fits onto and empty that when it needs. But you will probably get quite a bit of fluff!
or you could put the pipe out of the window!! 😉
Re: Quick Help… Fisher paykel Intermitent F1
If you turn the power off to the machine first.
Then if you remove the lower tub, push the grey runners in on the side, te drawer will pull out.F1 is a water leak, if there is no water in there that you can see, remove the PCB cover,dry the PCB area with a hair dryer and try again.
The water level is senced by the little silver strip on the actual PCB , so if it gets wet it can blow, you may need to change the lower board.
these machines do drain slow, i often think there faulty when there draining – but its just the way they work!
If it is leaking from somewhere, the lid motors are a possible reason, or foam is a BIG problem with these machines, if there is to much foam in there, that will cause F1.
Is the machine syphoning? check the drain hose is above the water level of the top tub.the lid motors should take 6/7 seconds to lower, if they take any longer they may not be shutting correctly. – also is there anything that might be to big in there, like a large plate?
**few**
long post!Re: Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher 292T
only ever worked on the dish drawers! didnt even realise they did another type!
we havent got them over here, all we have is the Dish drawers, refrigeration and cooking products!!your a lucky lot over there!
Re: Zanussi ZX99/5 warm freezer, fridge part is fine
have you checked the condensor inside the freezer to make sure there is an even spread of frost across it, could be blocked or short of gas.
Re: CDA CW494
PerranOak wrote:
kandl-appliancerepair wrote:
when you open the door, count the flashes between the pauses and that will give you a fault code, let me know how many times it flashes and ill tell you 🙂
It could possibly be an NTC fault or a control board fault on the heater circuit.Cheers mate. I looked and the light just flashes continuously, no pauses. What happens is that, even though I select a wash programme, it stops early, beeps and selects the rinse prog.
Weird!Oh, it’s about 10 weeks out of gurantee – damn!!!
I think its Mr. Engineer time im afraid! Cant help you if its flashing constantly, unless one of the others knows, could be anything!sorry
Re: Ace PCB repair service by QER
with the power off disconnect the heater and check for a resistance across it, if there is one, it should be ok, providing its not down to earth.
you may be better calling out an engineer if your unsure.
