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leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: wf 240 intermittent wont light up
Can’t believe the amount of trouble you guys go to for the sake of recycling something that costs 20p. 😆
As I mentioned before, the switches corrode internally so even if a switch is not used it will probably not be as good as a new one. Plus with smds desoldering and resoldering a used switch you have to be careful not to melt anything other than the solder.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: How to get to the top.
No way would I trust those flimsy looking handles.
He didn’t even bother to take off his metal strapped watch 😯 .
What voltages are they working with? And anyway it could have caught on something.
Wouldn’t like to be the guy sitting on his head holding the camera :lol:.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Rockin’ Cooker
Bet he gets paid more than we do. And has more fun.
Great idea though. Sets you thinking.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Stoves 444445537 front right halogen ring
espares wrote:
“Stoves 1500 Watt Halogen Ceramic Element for 444445537
Manufactured by Belling
(Stoves is part of the Glen Dimplex Group)
Part No. 082200901″
I don’t know if that’s your beastie? Doesn’t look like halogen though.
And should your no. be 082201601 ?
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: whirlpool oven
Have you got the old one?
http://www.elementman.co.uk and other similar retail sites give clear details of all elements and you can often then find a pattern from your preferred wholesaler.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Candy fdp231 fan oven element
❓
Type of Element: Fan Oven Wattage: 1500Corresponds to Original Part No’s: 41020376
Height: 170mm Width: 150mm Bracket: 70mm Tags: 25mm
From elementman.co.uk
Mike.
leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: ASKO 9600
Nearest model on Connect is W600. ?
Has lovely clear diagrams on mediator. Triple valve for that one is 8061757.
£43.21 + trade. (oos) And it looks just like a universal one.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: New Van Rack Layout Dilemma
Martin wrote:
But it does bring me to thinking how on earth you could possibly do this job by just using an estate car or even a bicycle? I recall that on 2 occasions in this last many years my van was off the road and I had to use my car to get about and do a few calls. I grabbed a few boxes and slung them in the boot only to find having to travel an interminable distance back home because I didn’t have the bits I needed. It’s bad enough having to go back and forth from the customers house to the van in order to get special tools and spare parts but having to leave the job and peddle home for a pump must be the stuff of (daily) nightmares. 😈
😆Sorry to hear of your struggles. And we all thought you had it all sussed!
I don’t think I need tell you that time spent getting to know as much detail as possible over the phone before you go, and making notes, enables you to take what you’re likely to need and leave behind the un-necessary. (It also shows the customer you’re interested in them and their problem. And that pays off in spades.)
I have to admit to you Martin that I am happy to remain a very small fish in this pond. I never go further than ten miles from here. (I’d usually end up in the sea if I did.) My customer base is small and they understand that they may have to wait up to a week before I get out to them and just occasionally another week for a part. They know it’s worth the wait. Those that don’t think so are encouraged to look elsewhere.
Mike.
PS You mis-spelt pedal. :lesson: And I would never (again) forget my pump. 😆leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: wf 240 intermittent wont light up
New tactile switches are easily and cheaply available from RS etc.
You can also buy them easily in fives or tens on e-bay. Be sure to get correct type (SMD or through hole) and size by measuring up the old one.
The internal parts corrode in a damp atmosphere. And as Geoff notes they get a lot of abusive pushing so solder joints fail. On the WMA’s they used to fall right off!
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td
That’s a coincidence! Have got same model with same cap popped. Fuse looks OK but all was dead on display, no one at home when on/off pressed.
Have just received new cap from RS. (Took one night to get to Plymouth and two days for the Parcelforce sub-contractor to not deliver it to my address and yet get a signature! Then magically it turned up through my door today :hmm: )
The original cap was a Sanwha 85 deg. I was thinking of upgrading it to a 105 deg but then thought 2000 hrs mean life would be sufficient and should get it through another 5 years hard labour before the machine needs new bearings, pump etc.
Pretty sure this will work OK; think it’s just that the original cap had done its expected lifetime. (Apparently may have popped trip as they had an otherwise unexplained incidence recently.)
The jelly gets out of the way when you poke it with a soldering iron and gives off quite a pleasant smell! Stanley knife gets you through the plastic at the back then it’s easy enough to de-solder the cap. Watch out not to hit the little diodes nearby on the component side.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WF series
💡 Maybe codlets could negotiate a deal from EMW for reprogramming the boards as a job lot? Maybe change them to cover a range of models.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: How would you deal with a customer like this??
You gotta feel sorry for that poor woman!
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WF series
I was a bit surprised they should have different pcbs so I checked on Connect. The WE model and the S/C model both come up with the same “not programmed” main board. There does seem to be some confusion over the fascia boards, both of two alternatives being listed for the S/C but only one for the WE. However, apart from programming, the differences appear to be in the number of selectors, 2 or 3. It’s a simple job to transfer the selectors over. I’ve done it when using a s/h board.
Are the fascia boards programmed? I thought they got that from the main board.
Mike.December 15, 2010 at 11:01 pm in reply to: WHP (Dutch machine) DVGWM657E 857061212903 motor earthing. #338854leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: WHP (Dutch machine) DVGWM657E 857061212903 motor earthin
This was on a plastic drum too. I did ponder if it could be considered to be “double insulated” as it has the cabinet between it and the consumer. The motor label read, “insulation class B/F” I think it was. The heater, and bearing housing had earth wires and the loom carrying the motor wiring also carried the b/h earth wire making it less obvious that there was no motor earth. I do find this subject confusing especially the way pumps are not earthed. Yet they only have a flimsy plastic cover over the coil.
I noticed on a Beko I did the other day that there was an earth wire incorporated into the ordinary motor plug.
Mike.leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: How would you deal with a customer like this??
It’s a very good reason to have caller ID if you don’t already have it. I let my answerphone service take most of the strain. If it’s a witheld number I only answer if I’m expecting a call from a friend with such. I only answer unfamiliar numbers if I’m raring to do some work. I would not go near such a customer and my response would be exactly as Phidom’s.
Phidom wrote: “Sorry, I can’t help you, I suggest you try someone else.”
As for giving him other numbers to call, I wouldn’t give him my worst enemy’s number.
Like Lee8 said, you’re not a public servant.
The biggest reason for being self-employed is because you’re the one who does the choosing. Don’t give an inch to anyone who tries to turn that round.
Mike. -
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