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Re: I should cocoa!
gandh1 wrote::popcorn:
i like the fact im now a belittler, when my post was actually a serious quandry that was up for discussion
There’s just so much going on in this thread. I have quite a few things I haven’t said yet. I just don’t know where to start. I guess I’ll ease myself back into it by joining in this part of the discussion.
You gave us four options to choose from, which really made the game a bit too confusing for my already befuddled mind. None of the options really appealed to me much and, like the other two posters who have taken the trouble to answer (if I counted correctly), I would give them my reasons for thinking that the thing was not worth pouring £25 into, let alone £50. If they insisted they must have it done, (which I suppose might be possible if they had no more than £25 to spend but would perhaps be in line for an emergency loan from DSS next week) I would go ahead and do the job as cheaply as possible, perhaps reducing my charges if it didn’t take long and if they were nice folks.
I bet that is what you’d do too, bud!
Mike.Re: I should cocoa!
wilf wrote:.without looking at it your just expressing an oppinion and can you charge for this?
wilf
Er, I don’t see why not. Experts charge for their opinions all the time. Even when you have a machine in front of you with the lid and the back off, you can’t always be certain what the internal mechanical state is, and the customer wants your opinion of how much it’s likely to cost before you start work.
Now, I really am off to work.
Mike.Re: I should cocoa!
DrDill wrote: read through my posts and then tell me if i have referred to anyone in particular, go on read the posts! Thats right i havnt named any one!!!!!!!!!!!!
I see. So you think it is just fine to spray accusations of malpractice around on a forum open to, if I have my guess right, over 1000 people? And you don’t think any of them has a right to feel aggrieved by your sharp-tongued remarks?
I would gently remind you that you may be making assumptions about people’s actions from their words which are not the same thing.For example, if you were to read my posts regarding insurance quotes by e-mail properly, you would have to admit that at no time did I mention that I had actually done any such action. (I haven’t, but as I said, I think I would in the circumstances described by Martin in his first post.)
What is so sad about all this, from my point of view, is that you have distracted me from the train of thought I was taking as I made those remarks. I will be developing the idea further once I have finished dealing with the stress you have caused me in making your ludicrous accusations.
Right now I’m off to work. Back this evening.
Mike.Re: How it might have been 2,010 years later
😆 😆
Thanks for the link.
Have e-mailed it to a friend.
Mike.Re: Bosch SGS43T02GB/06 D/W
I am not a Boschmeister but I would suggest that you should, if you have not already, examine carefully the fill matrix / pressure switch / transfer tube to sump area for blockages. Or the mushroom thing for correct operation, if that’s what your model has.
Also, if the pump was trying to operate when jammed for any length of time, as it very probably was, perhaps it could have taken out a triac on the board? It would make sense to examine the board very closely for damage anyway.
Anyway, the fact that I have responded to your post now, will probably bring out a flood of real Boschmeisters, checking that I haven’t given out duff info. again. 🙂
Mike.Re: whirlpool awo/d 4605 help !cant slplit tub
slyp98 wrote:unbelieveable , is there a sticky for these, makes sense not to have to do what i did, 1 and a half hours later !!doh
You might find it useful to do a search, such as “welded” or “split tub”. That should provide you with ample reading! 😉
Mike.Re: I should cocoa!
DrDill wrote: i just cant stand people who actually tell all about their unscrupulus actions when placed in a position of trust in a customers house! I dont get it and never will.
DrDill,
Would you mind, just to be absolutely clear, when you use the term, “unscrupulus actions” are you including me, leavemetogetonwithit, (real name Mike Orman, trade name The Spin Doctor, of Penzance) as one of the people to whom you refer?Mike.
Re: stoves element
Is it the correct power rating and dimensions, though?
If so, could you not (safely, of course, – one has to be so careful what one says on here these days) modify the bracket?
Mike.
PS: If you tap in, for example, “Stoves element” to Connect’s search box, it will bring up plenty of choices. You can then cross reference results to other sites etc.Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td
Hi Ghand1, the caps I bought were £8.57 ea incl. vat. Delivery was included as I have an account with them. There are similar ones for about £6.50 incl. but they were out of stock.
I’m pretty sure it has nothing to do with the element but I’ll be pretty p’d off if you go and prove me wrong 😆 . The caps are specified to have a mean life of 2000 hours and this customer of mine admitted she used it every day of it’s five years of labour and also that she tended to do two or three small loads rather than one big one ’cause it was quicker. ❗ Working that out comes to about 2000 hours. There’s no need to look further, although obviously something else has gone down somewhere, on my board, I think. Would you like the board I’ve repaired, complete with new cap and fuse in holder for £15 incl P&P? You can return it for a refund if all you get is dE. The chances of my ever doing any more with it are slim. This was the first dead LG board I had ever seen.
Mike.Re: I should cocoa!
This was all well and truly covered in Ken’s post here , last year.
Mike.Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td
Oh well, ho hum. Ghand1 I would stop there if I were you. Don’t waste any more of your time. 🙁
After re-installing the board I got dE which is door error according to instruction book. Pulled out door lock – looked similar to a Merloni one.
Opened it up to find out how to bridge it. Inside looked OK, though coming due for replacement. Dismantled it and cleaned up all contacts. Got 745 ohms across L / N on lock which should be fine. Re-installed, still got dE. Bridged it across L – C and leaving ptc in circuit in case it was measuring that somehow. Still dE. Tested voltage to lock between L & N and it was only getting 145 volts. Checked all connections to board, all tight. Tried diagnostics but couldn’t get past first base where all lights light up. Next press of start pause was dE again.
Gave up there. £125 for new board, customer was not interested in that option and I very much doubt they’d have been interested at £75.
Brought away both boards so if anybody wants to buy a probably OK fascia board cheap then get in touch. Also for sale are two 450v 330uf caps one of which has had 20mins use, and the other still hasn’t arrived yet.
Mike.Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td
Thanks Shaun. Yes, I know there are various types many of which I have in my boxes. I’ve now got both end caps out and can find no clues so will go with fast blow for now (have 7.5A in stock) and if that fails I’ll just have to order some new fuses. 🙁 Going to solder in an in-line fuse holder to make it a bit easier.
Mike.Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td
Soldered in the cap then thought I’d better check the fuse. Turned out to be blown despite appearing perfect. Just managed to dig out enough of it to identify. 8 amps. I think the blobs along the length of its wire would indicate it’s a slow blow type. Can anyone confirm that?
I’m going to continue digging and see if I can gain more insight from the markings on the ends. This is more difficult than the capacitor was to dig out because it’s right at the edge of the board and difficult to get behind it. And it’s a soldered in type. 😡
Mike.
