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madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint Aqualtis AQXXD169PM drum swap
Martin wrote:
madangler1 wrote:
One other thing to note is the suspension legs also go in a certain plaice on the drum.Would that be breaded or battered?
Bloody phone lolmadangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint Aqualtis no water!
Turn the machine off at the wall for at least 5 minutes, in the meantime make sure you have connected everything back up fine and check the pressure switch connector , put in about 2 litres of water in the drum, turn it back on and start a fast wash. It may take a few minutes to settle and pump out and refill with water.
This should reset the switch. As yours is a new model (12months old) it automatically resets the pressure switch level at the start of every wash.
On the early versions with a linear pressure switch you can get problems when its been tilted back to far but tbh Iv never had a problem it always resets fine, these early ones don’t automatically reset at the start of every wash.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint Aqualtis AQXXD169PM drum swap
A has been said straight forward but as has been said the springs are in a certain order and location on the tank. Mark up their locations on the cabinet first the. In the drum, , lid of, disconnect all pipes and wires, remove top weight unbolt the suspension legs from the cabinet an remove motor, take a pice of 3ft timber with you, slide it between the pulley and the cabinet. Lay the machine on its back and slide the whole lot out in one. Then swap every thing over and reverse the above.
One other thing to note is the suspension legs also go in a certain plaice on the drum. 2 options so make note before removing.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Work Mat
That grip matting you can get in £1 shops it great, stops it moving a mm, had a machine nearly take my head off one day from the same thing.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WML560, weird fault???
Their has been an issue on these with intermittent tripping as has been said but I would normally expect it to do it from the beginning if it was that issue.
I often find its carbon buildup in the motor around the brushes, when it gets to full spin you get a quite a bit arcing and it tracks across the carbon to earth.Some times a good clean of the motor solves it, an can of air spray does wonders.
But Iv have had a few where I have had to change the motor and or board to fully resolve it.
As or the pulley bolt hitting the back normally a sign of overloadingmadangler1
ParticipantRe: Supermarkets
Hardly surprising when manufactures are only aiming for £10 a pair.
Add to the returns and the hassle I’m not surprised.
Could help some of the manufactures if this does happen, Beko could also see a hit. .
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BWD129 Overheat Problem
The problem is we have no idea if its a genuine Indesit element or not?
Aftermarket parts are often cheaper but don’t always behave the way a genuine one is expected to.
Iv never seen this happen on another one so its either a strange set of circumstances have come together to produce this outcome or the element is not rite.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BWD129 Overheat Problem
The thermal cut out is built into the base of the element on one input side, it possible in certain conditions that if the fan is running and moving heat away from the element the cut out would not blow as its not getting hot enough.
Iv never liked the thermal fuse being built into elements because of this very issue, they rely on the element over heating not just the machine.
The fan running pulling heat away from the element and getting the drum hotter and hotter but element base still below the cutout, this is also worse when its a slow gradual build of head rather than a rapid over heat due to the fan failure.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BWD129 Overheat Problem
A question was the element open circuit ?
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BWD129 Overheat Problem
What element is It ? Are the connections on the top of the heater box or on the back of it,
If the connections are on the top it will either have a spiral or folded element with either a one shot stat screwed into the heater box from inside or the inline type thermal fuse that’s screwed to the top of the heater box.
If the connections are on the back its intergrated into the element.
If its the type with the connection on top without the one shot screwed in I’d bet some one removed the thermal fuse
Never seen one of these melt down TBH
As for cause of it coming on Iv seen a few of these leaks from the drier box foam seal that’s seals it to the drum, especially if its been removed and not replace, water leaks onto the module during a spin and shorts it out and causes the element to come on.
If I was a betting man id say they come out and found the thermal fuse blown, removed it and left it as that, not Actually knowing what’s really going on.madangler1
ParticipantRe: CURRYS KNOW HOW
It makes sense for the manufactures after the trade cost of parts is vastly inflated compared to cost so for them its not a problem
As for Currys Id bet this has something to do with their insurance, now they have high street dominance they seem to be moving into doing everything. I know Indesit do a lot of their insurance work so I’m guessing this will affect them as it will all the manufactures they provide work to.
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Bit of help
No signed of problems on the mod i
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Bosch drum front.
Thanks guys turned up tonight the guy has change the bearings himself and fitted that kit from the looks of it however now it just does not work. He did not explain the full story on the phone
All 5 spin lights flashing and the first light of the other 4 next to it flashing.
F63 I believe Which is control board, checked all connections but still throwing that error.madangler1
ParticipantRe: Bosch drum front.
Not 100 percent Iv not seen it yet just got a phone call,
Not done any of them any info in that ?
madangler1
ParticipantRe: Bosch drum front.
Odd I searched for that earlier and could not find it. Working now
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