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electrofix wrote: ok so that means its not a water fault
if the light was not flashing that would be a water fill fault
the fact its flashing means it can be anything else which is not a lot of help as its not a specific fault code
Dave
Is this flashing/not flashing, water or not water related across all Bosch D/W’s – never knew and seems very helpful.
What annoys me most on the Bosch D/W is the random leaks which cause anti flood every few months, but NEVER appear when I test the units.
Sure the base hasn’t warped? I’ve had them where the plastic warps and pushes the anti flood polystyrene against the micro switch despite no water.
If not, either faulty pcb or wiring loom chewed.
Thanks.
Yes, kwatt – that’s exactly what i was thinking and have asked them to use the machine (I’m returning to fit parts to their oven soon) and log exactly what it does and when.
Suedehead1 – Hopefully the customer can pay more attention to the ‘sticking’ and a sequence/sticking point can be identified.
I’ve had issues replacing the modules on these in the past, where replacing one of them isnt enough.
Confirmed not sensor fault.
New sensor yielded exactly the same fault.
Only logical conclusion is the little PCB isn’t correctly able to read the sensor.
No obvious signs of damage, and have double checked all connections.
Yawn!
SN: CF067ZE0300CXP9K0151
The moisture continuity sensors were the metal strips inside the tub, just below the filter area – like on the Bosch machines.
Cheers.
Confirmed sensor fault.
Retrying without sensor connected yielded.
F0211 compartment 1.
F0214 compartment 2.New sensor on order.
Update on this xuntas.
So, I delicately stripped down the Dos system and cleaned all the little hoses, including the nozzle piece which enters through the rubber grommet into the tub. Put it all back together and…
Only have a fault on compartment 1.
Compartment 2 will complete the 8 minutes long maintenance cycle without issue.
Compartment 1 will error as soon as the door locks and the cycle commences.
Both of the pumps/motors had identical 5.1kohms resistance, so I doubt they’re the problem.
The tiny red wires to the sensor are too small for me to test, but i suspect the sensor to compartment 1 is open circuit.
SOLVED:
Heat pressure switch (internal diaphragm) leaking causing the short and F14. The terminals were wet after running the machine and getting it to trip.
Many thanks all.
Had another update from the customer which read;
“Started machine, tripped in 3 minutes.
Started again after resetting circuit breaker. Didn’t trip, didn’t fill, eventually showed F14, no water in machine.”I’m visiting it again this week.
And, yes Dave. After I inspect the circulation pump for debris, and the heat pressure switch for signs of leak, i ran the machine and it functioned perfectly, including filling correctly and heating.
Hopefully it faults whist I’m there this time, as that’ll help me deduce what’s what!
Cheers.
Also, should add.
After inspecting circulation pump etc, i ran the machine and it completed quick wash (with heat) no problem!
Kentish wrote:Something that’s always worth checking is how much salt are they putting in.
All too often people stop putting salt in when the water in the chamber starts to flow out.
I always advise to fill the salt right to the top of the container, and to top the salt once a week as everyone forgets things.Yes, I did make sure the grandson (who filled it with salt) was aware of displacing the water – he understood and had filled it full, even putting his fingers in to give it a wiggle to settle etc.
And yes Electtrofix, It’s easy to trace the regen valve back onto the module, only the module was also positioned in a way where it was difficult to test when running etc.
I’m 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure that the spec when designing a new machine is now: Make it as awkward as possible to repair!
Thanks for the help though.
