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To me it looks like you havn’t removed the front panel which makes the job difficult.
Read my earlier post !!!
It will probably be the pressure chamber/fill hose bunged up. This is sited on the LHS as you look at the appliance. If you can get to it and watch it , you may see the red float bobbing up and down as water enters the machine….it shouldn’t do this !!! The pressure chamber (The component the red float sits in ) and the ribbed fill hose leading from this into the sump , if blocked , will cause water to back up and operate the flood protection device ( The red float ) which thens shutd the valve off quickly and pumps a little water out.
As to the model number , it should be chemically etched onto the top edge of the inner door and is quite difficult to see. It depends on the angle you look at it ! MAke sure the metal is clean or you won’t see ‘owt .
POWER OFF AND PLUG OUT IF INVESTIGATING
First check is the water level. Once the machine is up and running , approx 5 mins in , open the door and check how much water there is in the base. It should just about cover the base and reach approx 1/3 up the salt pot lid.
Low water levels due to a blocked pressure chamber and hose are the most common cause of no heating faults in these machines .
You may need to let it finish the whole cycle to help reset the programme times. Get the customer to run it through a complete quick wash and then a complete normal wash. You might find the times settle down after that.
Built-in Fridge freezer…..i’d be looking at the door not closing fully….maybe moved back in the cabinet and the decor door holding the fridge door off ?
Almost CJA …..but you don’t need to remove the lid or control panel.
One screw in the soap drawer facia…..bottom right……. Botom facia off , 2 or 4 screws on front panel lower edge. The rest of CJA’s advice is sound though.
The machine uses the water level in the pump sump to determine whether the tanks full. The water from a drying cycle will slowly accumulate in the drain pump sump and lift a float. If , after a period of pumping , the water level in the pump area doesn’t drop , then it presumes the water container is full and hence you get the ’empty container’ LED lit.
HOWEVER , there are a couple of scenarios which will give false indications . I’ll list them in order of ease an probability.1: The nozzle to the water container is blocked . You will need to take the lid off and check the nozzle that connects the drain hose to the rear of the water container.
2: The filter on the rear of the water container is blocked and not allowing water into it. If you depress the little button on the filter , it should allow water to flow through it into the container. If its blocked , water will just flow back down the overflow hose and return to the sump/pump area
3: The drain pump sump area is bunged up with
fluff and crap. Due to forum rules , we can’t give a nuts and bolts description of how to strip the machine but it is situated on the RHS as you look at the machine and will require the RHS panel being removed to access it.Hope this helps and please remember – POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
i just tried it by typing WAE24363 in the search box at the top of the forum page and got at least 10 hits ?
A no:3 in the window is a water fill prob . If it only occurs on the 30*C cycles , i’d be looking at the cold fill maybe ?
Most common cause of no heating on these babies is low water levels due to blocked pressure chamber/fill hose followed by Martin’s suggestion. When its all up and running , is there enough water to completely cover the base and reach around 1/3 up the salt pot lid ?
The probable cause of your fault is a failure of the diverter motor in the heater assembly. This litttle motor switches approx every 60secs or so , alternating the water between the top and bottom spray arms.
It is not really a DIY job to replace as you will need to replace the complete water heater assembly and this quite a complicated , involved job.
There is also the chance that it may have blown a component on the main control PCB.
If you really want confirmation , you might need to call an engineer out .
….and if the condensor’s blocked , its probably shutting down due to overheating due to blocked airways !
