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How did the pump impellor feel? Still tight or fairly loose ?
I don’t think i’ve ever had a PCB fault on a WFO that would cause an intermittent fault.
I’d be looking at the pump or , and i know you say you’ve checked for blockages , maybe a button or coin ‘stuck’ in a pipe thats swivelling at times causing a no drain fault. If the pump impellor seems still quite tight and doesn’t make any laboured sounds on its start up , i’d be tempted to strip the drain system completely , including eco-sump , just to make sure its all clear.
The other possibility , and i hope i’m not teaching you to suck eggs , is the Out of Balance system is operating if the custy is washing large items….although this would tend to be just a no spin prob and not a no drain prob.
Hs the customer got the signals volume turned down/off ? – Normally if the door lock fails and the appliance won’t start , it will double-beep you , giving an indication state of door open when its actually closed .
Martin’s prob correct with his interlock advice :waving:
4 film strips on facia panel – from left to right
166187
166188
166189
166188I think the temp film displays are same for both ovens
Ah ok , if when you select any programme all the spin speed leds illuminate , then the likelihood is that the control board is frazzled !!!
An error code on these machines is either an F:XX number in a display or a combination of the spin speed led’s flashing.
Can’t say i’ve seen the combination you’ve mentioned here tbh .
You could try putting it into test mode briefly to see if that clears it.
Selector switch to 12 o’clock
turn selector switch to 6 o’clock
hold down spin speed button and turn selector 1 click clockwise – 7 o’clock and then release spin speed button.You will then get 2 lights on RHS lit….this is appliance in test mode. Switch selector back to off and see if the lights you’re on about clear.
Not too bad……front panel off . sides off . Unhook plastic white door spring clips from hinges . 2 screws out from either side of door where the hinges are and this frees up the door . Hold door in position and pull hinges down. Unclip seal from base pan front edge and pull out seal. Its worth looking at and making a note , mental or physical , of how the old door seal sits at the hinge points .The plastic end collars must fit between the hinge and the door inner. IIRC , the new seal comes with a reminder of this .
If it just beeps twice on trying to start , but doesn’t actually start , then it could well be the door lock faulty , not seeing the door in the closed position.
Re: Removing the front door panel from a Bosch washing machi
clivejameson wrote:As per the forum rules we can’t give you a ‘remove screw A’ type instruction, suffice to say there are two screws at the bottom of the front panel and one at the top 😉
Not on this model…..only 2 at bottom 😉
Sounds like a door lock problem . The double beep is normally a signal that the doors not shut. If you’re getting this signal and the door is definitely closed then its prob the door lock that has failed –
In order of possibles
1. Low water levels due to gunged up pressure chamber/hose
2. Open circuit heater
3. Dry/burnt out joint on control PCBCupboard dry is NTC 2 overheat i think. This is the NTC situated at the back in the heater area. It’s worth checking the heater as i had a similar Bosch appliance doing the same thing but all airways were clear. Found the heater badly degraded with metal filings all over the back where the heater coil was falling apart- fitted new heater and hey presto! overheat fault disappeared too , prob because the NTC was in the same area.
Search and you shall find .
Check out this thread from a couple of days back
