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Yes ….let it run through a couple of the higher programmes completely . It may be that the model uses the length of its last full cycle as the starting point. Put it on a full cycle and the times may suddenly jump down and correct itself .
Its a fairly easy job . you don’t need to support the drum . It will drop a small amount but when you fit the new bearing plate you can just use this to lift it back into position.
Be sure to note what comes off and where from the drum shaft. It should be – E-clip – washer – bearing – washer . Note 2 brown washers/spacers go back in the right position
These machines have a rear bearing that sometimes ‘squeals or squeaks’ . When you’ve got the kidney shaped panel off at the rear , and removed the heater box , you’ll see the bearing cover right in the middle. New bearing kit number is 618931
POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
If water levels ok and heater has continuity then i’d be looking for a dry joint on the control board….quite common . remove the control pcb from the door and you’ll prob find the offending relay when you open the casing.
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Re: Bosch Washing Machine WFF2000GB/12 FD7706
Martin wrote:
OLLIE2806 wrote:
What am i missing? 😕As well as the heater being at fault the pump can also be at fault. It’s important to check to see if the impellor bearing is in any way worn (i.e side to side movement) if so chances are it sticks when trying to drain hot or warm water. They usually work OK pumping cold water by the way. 😉
I remember i had one of these do this……and to prove it to the customer , i waited till it ‘stalled’ and wouldn’t start and then gave the side of the machine a thump to get it going again……only i forgot i had the drain hose disconnected from the sink and laying on the top of the machine ….LID OFF !!! Whoosh….water all over the electronics inside ! Motor went into an uncontrolled spin for about 2 secs before there was a loud ‘pop’ and a big puff of smoke from the power PCB.
Funnily enough , i havn’t made the same mistake again….yet 😀
I think its 298534…..if you’re talking about the lower edge door seal as opposed to the one that runs round the front of the tub.
Sorry , i can’t help with a ‘non-genuine’ part advice. Although It does seem strange if you’ve had 3 elements fail……the genuine part is a very robust element and i’ve yet to replace one more than once . It might be worth checking to make sure the door hinges are closing the door properly and that the oven fan is spinning at full speed.
The first is easy to check as there should be no play in the door at all when it is closed. The second is more an ‘ear’ thing , listening to the fan to see of its running at full speed.
To clear an F21 error , you will need to enter the test programme.
Set selector switch to off
Turn selector switch to 6 o’clock position
Hold spin speed button then turn selector switch one position clockwise ( 7 o’clock )
The machine should now be in test programme
Turn selector switch back to off then on again and it should be back to normalIf you look at the roof section , you will see 2 slits along the centre area around 2″ from the front. These will be blocked , not only the holes themselves but the channels above them. Get yourself a long cable-tie and insert it into these holes and ‘bend’ it so it goes backwards. Use it like a chimney sweep brush , backwards and forwards. Hopefully this will dislodge some of the black mould that will prob be stuck in there. Then run it on a rinse cycle to flush through. Hpefully this will be enough to clear it and get the water coming out of it again .
The genuine heater ring for your oven is now 499003 and should cost around £46+VAT direct from BSH appliance care (BSH ACL are the is the coverall name for Bosch Siemens Neff )
0844 892 8921
or e-mail at mks-spares@bshg.com
The flow rate meter is a white cyclindrical object , and sits between the inlet valve and side matrix. It basically tells the control board how much water is flowing in so it knows when to shut off the valve. If it fails , the valve is left open and the water fills to its top level…..then more and this operates the overfill ‘mushroom’.
If the sticky substance you’re talking about is an orangey sticky gunge that appears to be sitting on the polystyrene float on the base plate , then i can’t explain it but i have seen it before. Best to clean it off to allow proper and correct operation of the flood protection float.
if it fills/drains/fills/drains continuously from start up then 99 times out of a 100 it’ll be the flow rate meter (impellor jug 424099)
You need to follow the Bosch advice and give it a good long defrosting…..not just a couple of hours. It might be worth checking out the rear of the appliance. There will be a tube leading from the bottom of the rear wall to a container on top of the compressor ( motor ) Its worth taking this off and seing if its blocked with a jelly like substance. If it is , clean it out and refit it.
From your description , i suspect the freezer drain hole is blocked. Is the clear ice build up pooling in the base of the freezer compartment , under the bottom drawer because if it is , thats a classic sympton of a blocked drain hole.
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Its worth checking to make sure the door is closing properly too. Being an intergrated machine , they sometimes slip back in the housing and the decor door then strikes the cupboard chassis first , stopping the door from sealing properly.
Is there still ‘suction’ on the door when you try and open it i.e do you have to physically put pressure on to open the door or does it open really easily ?
