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nomadPaul
ParticipantAnd why do you say its not heating ? Are the wash times greatly extended ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantTBH , it sounds more like an open circuit heater element. If the water doesn’t heat , the machine won’t advance until approx 105 minutes into the cycle …..which would be close to the 2 hrs you stated.
Did he test the heater element ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantRe: Siemens SE25M275GB/36
jontymox wrote:Well done nomadPaul!
Yes, I had temporarily left the aforementioned access cover off, not realising the effect it would have!
Thanks again for all your help chaps.
jontymox
Glad you got it sorted !…….of course , it’s not something i’ve ever done myself :innocent:
nomadPaul
ParticipantA quick question . Have you taken the white pump access cover off from the sump ? This needs to be fitted for the drain pump to operate correctly. Without the cover fitted , you’ll just get water being squirted round the insides of the machine !!
nomadPaul
ParticipantThe dispenser ‘bulb’ blowing can cause the front board to pop ! If you remove and examine the front board ( not the one on the front cover but the one actually in the dispenser unit ) , you might find some burnt out track. common prob is bulb blowing and drawing a quick shot of high current which blows PCB.
nomadPaul
ParticipantSome later machines have a ‘suppressor’ built into the main board.
nomadPaul
ParticipantYou havn’t said whether its not draining when the pumps running or does the pump just not activate ?
It could be a weak pump. I had one yesterday that appeared to be doing everything it should but the pump just didn’t have enough ‘ooomph’ to pump out. The telling evidence was the impellor blades were really rough….which suggests something had got jammed in there at some point and maybe burnt out a pump winding. It could depend on where the impellor stops as to whether it starts again.
nomadPaul
ParticipantTry BSH !!!
nomadPaul
ParticipantIt sounds like the wash/circulating motor has seized up or is blocked in some way. . Was there any signs of heavy corrosion on the motor when you fitted the new capcitor ? It may just be blocked with a foreign object and there’s not enough pressure to force the water up into the top spray arm. When its working can you hear the motor running ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantIf the impellor jug fails , you should get a constant fill/drain/fill/drain cycle as the machine reaches its fill level – The ‘check water’ light will also come on if the incoming water pressure/flow is too low and also if the appliance doesn’t drain , this can cause it too .
Normally its the 1st sympton…..the constant fill/drain/fill drain that is the cause – New impellor jug required – IMPORTANT TO ENSURE THE NEW ONE IS FITTED CORRECTLY SO THAT THE WATER FLOW IS IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION ( ARROW ON IMPELLOR JUG SIDE ) AND TO KEEP THE JUG AS UPRIGHT- ALONG THE LATERAL LINE – AS POSSIBLE !!
nomadPaul
ParticipantIs there water in the base ?
September 12, 2010 at 8:08 pm in reply to: Bosch WF02467GB/15 washing m/c drum bearing renewal #330186nomadPaul
ParticipantIf you’ve split the tub , the suspension les will just slide off their suspension lugs. You only need to drill them if you’re replacing the legs ‘in-situ’ without splitting the tub.
nomadPaul
ParticipantIf it DOES have the jockey pulleys , these may well be the cause of the squeak/squeal . A squirt of WD40 and a light oiling normally clears the noise.
nomadPaul
ParticipantE:11 or F:11 – Either way , F11 is a control fault and normally requires a new control module !
Second F:11 today on this forum 🙁
nomadPaul
Participantdo 1st , 2nd and 4th led’s equate to drying , iron dry and end ? If so , the thats F:11 which is a control fault detected which normally means a new control module i think !!
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