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nomadPaul
Participantor you could switch it off and on again at midnight to get the correct’ish’ time setting !
September 5, 2010 at 4:59 pm in reply to: Siemens Extraklasse XLS 140 fills but won’t go through wash #218364nomadPaul
ParticipantWith the 2 bolts out , you have to lever/prise the motor off the locating pegs
nomadPaul
ParticipantRe: New Built Under Oven Advice
gandh1 wrote:
dont know how reliable new neff and bosch are but been having issues with last 6 years worht of bsh b/u gear with half moon elements , whihc has affected other engineers on here too.
The newer style Neff/Bosch double built under ovens now have a decent circular element in them , not the old half moon
September 2, 2010 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Bosch Logixx 1400 WFR2866 Water Tap Closed Message #329453nomadPaul
ParticipantYour appliance has a ‘flow through’ sensor fitted. If you take the lid off , you’ll see a small circular component on the inlet pipes bwteen the valve and detergent box. If this fails , you would get the message you’re seeng .
POWER AND WATER OFF IF INVESTIGATINGnomadPaul
ParticipantSounds like the Tacho has gone in the motor . When it does these ‘spins’ , are they very fast and quick ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantJust to add another point…which is prob in Iadoms link….but any water drawn from the boiler will have been heated once….and if at a later point it goes into the washing machine , it would be heated again after cooling down sitting in the pipes. Another uneconomical action
nomadPaul
ParticipantRe: Whats the most annoying thing customers do?
odom wrote:
Ummmmmm…. YES BLOODY PLEASE! :rolls: After checking that he was absolutely sure he wanted to give me a Miele I fetched the sack truck! Well, I wouldn’t want my customers to have a reliable machine :D.
Happily purring away doing a maintenance wash at the moment!
Had the same with a 2.5 yr old slimline Bosch dishwasher . I was working on the oven and saw it sat in the front garden . Customer said the council were picking it up later after it had gone pop and smoke came out the back. I checked it and told her it was just the interference capacitor popped and was fixable for less than £15 . She said ” no , i’ve lost confidence with it now and we’ve had the cupboard space changed. You can take it if you like ? “
” You sure ? ” i asked as i shot out the door and loaded it into the van !!Made a nice little profit on it selling it to my sister in law !
nomadPaul
ParticipantThe chances are that the interference capacitor has gone pop . Pull the machine out and look at the rear bottom panel If you can see black ‘shadows’ around the area where the mains cable enters the machine then that would confirm it .
Power off before investigating
nomadPaul
Participant99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} chance that you’re correct.
If it constantly fills/drains/fills/drains from start of cycle and tap led illuminates after approx 30-45 secs then either the impellor jug has failed or its picked up some ‘grit’ from your water supply.
Part No: 424099 if you’re replacing
POWER AND WATER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
nomadPaul
ParticipantThere is no F:00 code as far as i’m aware MK . Have you seen the display or has the customer told you themselves ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantNot much to go on Lawrence and the full model would be helpful as the later models do differ somewhat to the earlier models . Anything with an end 2 digits higher than 55 i.e S5453X1GB/55 and the machine has a different water level system .
A better description of the actual problem would be helpful too.
The salt and tap led’s are not normally used for fault codes.
The tap led is for ‘check water supply’ and normally only appears when :
a: The impellor jug ( flow rate meter ) has gone faulty – This will give a constant fill/drain/fill/drain problem at the start of the cycle
b: The drain pump is blocked and this has caused an ‘overfill’
c: There is no water pressure into the appliance
If i was a betting man i’d go for a faulty impellor jug – part no: 424099 – as its a fairly common fault
As for the salt light…….it probaly just needs salt 🙂
nomadPaul
ParticipantSorry mate , actually , i mis-read the first post…D’oh !!!
Its the ’empty container’ led thats a blocked pump.
nomadPaul
ParticipantNo , 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it will be the drain pump sump area blocked with the usual plug of gungey fluff !
nomadPaul
ParticipantWhy are you changing the on/off switch by the way ?
nomadPaul
ParticipantUnfortunately , we are limited to the amount of info we can give regarding dismantling of appliances. As your machine is over 5 yrs old , i would probably be looking at the low water levels first.
When the machine is fully running , how much water is there in the base ? There should be enough water to cover the base of the dishwasher and reach about halfway up the salt container lid . Does it make any klerdunking noises when its filling ?A read through this thread may help
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