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When you decide to remove the motor , i would advise wearing a long sleeve top as the edges of the ‘teardrop’ hole can be lethal .
Not really. If you put it on reset and it doesn’t drain – and you can hear a faint buzz , then it’ll be either a blcoked or knackered drain pump. When you reset the appliance , the drain pump is the only working part that is activated.
Definitely sounds like a blocked drain pump. When working normally , they will work/stop/work/stop/work/stop…then pump continuously. If you look in the very bottom of the sump inside , is there a white cover with a single torx 20 headed screw holding it on ? If there is you moght want to try taking this cover off as this will expose the pump impellor and you may find a piece of glass/crockery or bone trapping the impellor.
Remember to fix the cover back on before testing though as it won’t drain without it .IIRC , F09 is a no heat fault – ‘probably’ just the temp limiter popped on the rear .
Normally caused by blocked filter/condensor or customer opening the door during a drying cycleDid you or the customer remove the water manually from the appliance whilst it was still halfway through a cycle ? You will need to reset the appliance electronically otherwise it will continue to run its cycle but as its empty of water it will never move on through that cycle . When the wash motor runs empty of water , it will sound like the pump is running.
To reset , look at the selector buttons and there should be 2 buttons with dots above them….press these 2 together and the end light or ‘0’ should come up and the machine will then drain. Open door , switch off , switch on , close door and the appliance should then be ready to start a new cycle.
I walked up to a customers front door and as the ccustomer opened up , this Jack Russell came bounding out , yapping and snapping .
I said ” Does your dog bite ? ”
She said “No “
As i walked into the hallway , the bloody dog bit me on the calf , through my work trousers.
I turned to the customer angrily and said ” I thought you said your dog doesn’t bite “
She said…..” Thats not my dog !! ” 😆 😆 😆
Disclaimer : Some or all of the above may not be factually correctWithout going in to too much detail , as we’re limited to the detail of info we can give you , What you’ve done is completely shorted the feed to the element.
My guess would be that you’ve cooked the selector switch/main control unit…..and as that part is roughly £163:00 +VAT , i think you’ve unfortunately made a very expensive mistake 🙁
Re: bosch dishwasher model sgs56e12gb/01
subs wrote:Cheers Nomadpaul.
Easy when you know how!Subs
Subs , i hope you don’t think i was gloating when i posted that. The easy/simples quip was more to the fact that you asked whether you had to lift the back off the tub. Compared to that , the impellor jug replacement will seem the easy option 😀
Easy enough subs.
LHS panel off
Disconnect inlet hose from bottom of matrix
At rear , inlet valve unclips from lower rear panel
Slowly ease out valve
Disconnect valve cables and impellor jug connector
You now have the valve , small connection hose , impellor jug and longer hose all out of the machine.To be honest , the most difficult thing is getting the hoses off the impellor jug. They can be pretty tight. .
Fitting is the reverse…..although it is both important to ensure the flow rate meter is fitted in the correct direction and when fed back into the machine it is kept as vertical as possible.
As Alexander Meerkat might say….”simples” 🙂
Are the clothes all hot and steamy at the end of the drying cycle ?
There are a couple of reasons for the hot air/steam/condensation being forced out of the soap drawer although it seems you’ve checked them.
Does the condensor valve work through the whole cycle ? I have had a few that will work for 5 -6 mins then go open circuit , stopping the flow in.
When you said no blockages , have you checked the condensor box thoroughly ? It normally clogs up where the unit connects to the drum….pig to remove and even worse re-fitting but if its blocked with fluff there’s not really any other way. Sometimes a flush through with a mains water hose will clear it but i’ve never found it that successful. Hardest part on refitting is making surethe bottom connection is on fully around the back as you can’t see it without a mirror.
There is also a modified container/hose that replaces the original one. Its the small opaque container bwteen the valve and main condensor – new part is 613722 . The small hose between thiscontainer and the condensor has been re-modelled to a differnt shape to also stop steam escapinf from the detergent drawer . #
Hope this helps
If it fills pumps fills pumps continuously and the tap LED comes on 99.9{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it’ll be the flow rate meter ( Impellor jug ) part No 424099
Explaination – If the flow rate meter fails , the module recieves a false or no signal from the flow meter. It just keeps letting the water in until the water level reaches too high a level at which point it operates the flood protection red float…..a small amount of water gets pumped out…level drops as does the red float…..water starts being let in again….and so the cycle continues….over and over again . The motor doesn’t fire up because the module doesn’t think its let enough water into the machine yet.
Its quite a common fault.
the plastic container is filled with stones/gravel/pebbles. It is used as a counterbalance to counteract the added weight for when the door is open and a full bottom tray is pulled out. If installed under a worktop where there is no movement i.e the dishwasher is tight to a worktop and can’t tip forwards, the weighted container isn’t required as much .
Re: Your opinions on a small claim….
eastlmark wrote:
well they certainly have changed thir pricing policy, last time I looked it was something like £15 per 7 ,minutes on top of their call charge.
Mind you according to Mark this does sound like a seriously bad install.We have now gone down the one price call out route – £85:00 plus parts on any chargeable call…..5 mins or 5 hours makes no difference
Oh , and it was approx £4 for every 6 minutes after the first 1/2 hr 😉
The appliance won’t spin if it doesn’t drain the water away….hence the ‘check pump filter’ advice. However , if the water has drained and the drum still doesn’t turn then the most likliehood is worn brushes in the motor . Looking at the model number , the appliance is prob between 4 and 6 years old and if you havn’t had the brushes replaced before and it gets regular use , then that would be about the right time preiod for the brushes to fail.
Have you noticed any funny noises from it recently on the spin cycle of the wash ? Maybe a high pitched screech or ‘scraping/arcing’ noise ? This is normally a pre-cursor of brush failure.
Oh , and one other thing before you call someone out. What did you have in the machien at the time ? It wasn’t a single large item was it ? These machines have an out of balance system built in which will stop the spin from operating if the load is unbalanced . A spin test with an empty drum should confirm whether this was the case
