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When you say you have removed the ‘waste pipe’ , do you mean the waste pipe of the actual appliance ?
Put the end of the drain hose in a bucket and see if the appliance will drain then . If not , you’re looking at a blocked hose or maybe a foreign object in one of the ‘water matrix’ pipe connections. There is also the possibilty of a worn drain pump .
Unfortunately , Your model is not one i have listed as having the strengthened hinge available. If you do replace the door , i would look at fitting a washer prior to fitting onto the hinge to help spread the load once the door is hooked on. I’d also think about keeping the load a little lighter in the door compartments.
There is an official spacer/washer – called a disc available that fits over the hinge point . The part number is 170767 and worth ordering a couple as they are only pence.
There may be a fixing kit where you can fit an added ‘foot’ to the door hinge bracket but i will need the full Enr number to check
If you look up into the grill element , you will see a small bracket where the screw goes. It is just one screw that holds the grill/plate up. It is a Torx 20 screw.
The only problem that might have happened is if the hole that the screw tightens into has rusted away.
…..oh , and if you know how to remove the door , that will help you get easier acess
Re: Hotpoint Future
roly16 wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
I had a little bit of spare time………:p45:
In between hors d’oevres and main course, or main course and dessert?
So , that’ll be in between the fish dish and the fish dish or……the fish dish and the fish dish ? 😆
Re: LG WM-14225-FD, electrical popping!
Karl999 wrote:expertcat!, the fuse is replaceable as its just soldered onto the board. The resin you refer to encloses the rear of the board to a thickness of about 3mm and can be carefully pulled away. Ask yourself why put in a fuse if its not replaceable DOH!.
For the benefit of other people with the same problem the fault is with one of the capacitors with can also be replaced, send me a private message and I will explain which one.
I thought this forum was supposed to help people?, the majority of the posts I have read seem to patronize people and recommend buying a new appliance, or parts from whitegoods for a inflated price!.
Karl999……just how many regular people that visit this site would have the ability to resolder a component on a board…or even find the board in the first place ?
I find your post quite insulting to the engineers on this site who spend their OWN freetime helping and advising the public on a huge variety of White goods problems.
If you read that many posts , you would realise that we nearly always try and repair rather than replace an appliance. Don’t you think it would seem a little self defeating as repairers to suggest new appliance purchases ?
Well done on fixing your machine but please realise that 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the people that visit here have no technical ability/knowledge . This is site is invaluable to most and the feedback supports that.
Guess you won’t be needing anymore advice from here in the future then.
Couple of things i would check for Brian –
Water levels – low water levels will stop the heater from firing up – Check the pressure chamber and hose on the left hand side.
Wash motor – whats the circulation of water like when the machine’s running ? It will need a certain amount of pressure to operate the safety pressure switch situated on the end of the water heater.
How are you testing the heater is not getting any voltage ? Dependant on the cycle , the heater may not come on for quite a few minutes. I find the best way is to put it on a quick wash , close the detergent door and then start the cycle. When the detergent door thumps open , thats the time heating should commence…give or take a few seconds
No other part needed….just tell the customer not to turn the selector switch anti-clockwise past the 12 o’clock position
Worn hinges sounds like the problem . The door should close with a solid ‘thunk!’ when the hinges are fully functional. There should be no looseness when the door is in the shut position . Also , when the door is halfway open it should just about hold its position and not jst easily drop.
Original hinges from Bosch are 267593(R) and 267594(L) and should nearly always be changed as a pair – approx £21:00 each from BSH
Check that the customer is running it with a load in. Also that the load is a full one. Just drying one item or a number of ‘smallls’ can cause probs as there is inadequate contact between the drum paddles and clothes .
Also , ask if there are any flashing led’s or fault indications.
I’d go with Martin and check the TOC first
Most of the time , it’s caused because the customer either turns the selector switch the wrong way ie Anti-clockwise from the off position OR they turn it off with too much gusto which again sends it anti-clockwise past the 12 o’clock position.
It means the drain pump is either blocked or the pump cover is loose/off.
In the sump at about the 5 o’clock position is a small cover that you can pop off to access the drain pump impellor – check the operating manual to see how to access it – The impeloor may have a foreign object blocking it……BUT its very important that the impellor cover MUST BE CLICKED BACK IN FULLY for the drain pump to work properly.
Also check drain connection for blockages too
Re: Bosch SGS43E02 poor cleaning performance – I read the FA
Nelly54 wrote:I have the same problem but can’t suss out how to get the top off in order to get the side panel off. Any help to get me started please……
Presuming its the same style appliance , there are 2 clips on the rear of the lid . These have to be lifted and the lid slid back.
Try running the cycles. The times may have been upset by the heater fault . IIRC , the new cycle selected uses the running time of the previously used cycle as a start time. The machine will chop and change times over a cycle , sometimes increasing and sometimes decreasing by some minutes.
You may find the times re-adjust themselves accordingly.
Also check your water levels. The water should just about cover the whols of the base inside the machine when full . Low water levels can affect the heating and hence the timings of the appliance.
The other possibility is that the faulty heater box has taken out the module but its an expensive thing to just guess at !!!
