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It’ll be a ‘Not heating’ fault .
Check blocked inlet hose ( ribbed hose in bottom laft hand corner for blockages. This can lead to low water levels . Low water levels = no heat.
Check heater element for open circuit – normal reading should be approx 25 – 35 ohms
Check circ motor action – low pressure from faulty slow motor or loose/blocked impellor will cause lack of pressure and again no heating
I havn’t had any module faults for no heating but its a distant possibility.
Press the ‘M’ button for 4 seconds which brings up ‘language’ .
Use the arrow button to drop down to 2nd line.
set language using selector knob.
press ‘M’ button to set.99.9{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} it’ll be the coupling. Fairly common fault – 10mins job
If the motor was faulty , i would say you would get poor pressure to both spray arms . I’d be checking for blockages in the lower spray arm or a blocked diverter plate in the heater first .
Hi Steve , i can’t say i’ve seen this fault on these newish style tumble dryers . The only thing i can think of is does the customer use bounce sheets as i know these can block the filter ?
If condensation is forming in the display , have you checked the lamp cover ? I know the older versions used to suffer this prob if the lamp cover wasn’t fitted or missing .
Other than them 2 , i can’t think of anything else off te top of my head.
That model number is incomplete Darren , it should normally start SGS or SRS or something similar.
With water in it , what happens when you select ‘re-set’ on the appliance ? ( Normally labelled by the selector buttons with a line and 2 dots….press these together till the end light illuminates . This will end the programme and operate the pump )
If you can hear the pump working and yet the water is still not draining then you may have an internal blockage within the machines pipework.
If you can’t hear the pump fire up or hear a very faint hum then the drain pump may be blocked or faulty.
The best way to check for drainage is to place the end of the drain hose in a bucket to watch the outflow.
…oh , and remember that the machine won’t drain if you havn’t replaced the impellor cover !!!!#
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Re: Whitegoods v’s Osama Bin Laden?
Martin wrote:
funkyboogy wrote:
does he speak english ???Speaks it very well and helps around the house too.
Bloody foreigners coming here and taking all our jobs……. 😆 😆 😆
Auldyn , the ‘white solenoid valve’ that you saw on the bottom of the matrix is the impellor jug/flow rate meter that Lee8 is referring to.
If this goes faulty or gets stuck , then you get the classic fill/drain/fill/drain cycle that you’ve stated is happening.
You might also find the ‘Check water tap’ led is illuminated .Have you tried to start the cycle with the motor unplugged ?
Also faulty heater elements – element going down to earth – can sometimes cause weird problems on appliances.
The resisitance on the valve windings should read approx 3 – 4 KohmsWhen these appliances start up , IIRC , they will open the pre-wash vlave for about 3 – 5 seconds before switching to the main wash valve. Do you get the 1st valve opening briefly or is there no water intake at all ?
Its not reccomended mate. Most dishwashers need a supply of cold water to help create a cold spot for the drying phase
Cheers lads…once i found out what they were called i found a draper set on screwfix for a fiver. I know they’re not going to be top quality but i’ll probably only use them the once….and i can claim the money back anyway.
Stupid bloody things……….its the only appliance that i’ve ever seen them on.Do the easy thing first – check for correct water level – Most common cause for no heat/dry faults is low water levels due to blocked pressure chamber/inlet hose.
Ok , first off the model number or ENr should be etched along the top edge of the door. You may need to look ‘along’ this top edge as it can be a bit difficut to spot.
The thunks when filling are most probably caused by a blocked pressure chamber and inlet hose ( ribbed hose between pressure chamber and sump ) To access these items , you will need to remove the left hand side panel when all will be revealed .
There are plenty of posts on bosch appliances not heating properly which normally come down to this blockage.
Penguin normally links to thses posts as they have some very good photo’s to link to the position of the components you should be looking for.Oh , i found them . Read through this thread and it should explain what i’m pointing out.
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ic&t=44514POWER OFF IF INVESTIGATING
