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Re: Bosch Classix keeps tripping fuse
justmyluck wrote:Thanks very much for the quick response.
So to clarify then, this suppressor can cause these symptoms? And just out of interest, what is the function of a suppressor? I am assuming it stops any spikes/surges which would otherwise cause the fuse to trip and the fact that it’s blown on our machine is now causing exactly that to happen. Is that close?
Cheers
Yes , it can cause exaclty those symptons. you may see a blackened area around where the mains cable enters the back of the appliance or the suppressor itself will be black and look like its split.
If you are talking about the wash motor….bigger motor on the RHS….you should be able turn the ‘fins’ from the end although they will be some resistance. If you can’t turn these fins i.e they are stuck solid – then you may have a seized motor or loose impellor blade.
POWER OFF IF YOU’RE GOING IN TO CHECK
I would have thought that if the motor is starting , then the relay would be ok as , as stated , it only helps kick start the motor.
I have had numerous occasions where faulty diverter motor has taken out the module too.
I’d also check the end of the black hose where it empties into the water container . These are prone to blocking up
I would take the module out and look at the chips on the board……you may find one with a corner blown off. That’ll probably be the diverter motor control chip.
First off , i’d check in the sump and the little grey (?) cover that sits over the pump impellor. If this has come loose or been knocked out of position , the appliance may drain , albeit over a longer time , but as the pump pressure is low , it see’s it as a no-drain state. I’ve had 2 like this in the past 3 months
Does the fan stop going round too when the lights go off….but the element remains on ? I have had this particular fault and although i don’t think it was on this model it was on one similar. In fact i had 2 in the same week….and not had one since.
Anyway , it turned out to be the control unit. I suspect that contacts were making and breaking in there as it heated up but slamming the door was enough to close the contacts concerned…..quite an expensive repair if i remember too 🙁
Is this with wet clothes in the drum ? The ‘sensor’ cycles won’t work properly unless there is a wet load in the drum which also must be a fairly full load. Single items or a load full of ‘smalls’ may cause the sensors to detect an empty/dry load condition which will end the selected cycle.
A ‘timed’ cycle works soley on time and not on sensing the dampness of the clothes in the drum.If the sensor cycle still stops quickly when full , make a note of any flashing LEDs as these could point towards an error state.
You’ve changed the display board with no change ? In all honesty , i don’t think i’ve ever changed a display board on one of these models , however……..I have changed a number ( and recently too ) of the LHS PC board – never the RHS.
The reason , i think anyway , is that the LHS board is the one that has the mains power coming in to it and feeds the display board. A component on this board fails and won’t give an error message but the hob won’t power up or you get 4 dashes that flash intermittently on the display.
PC board part number 666080 – approx £122 + VAT
Are you sure its the water levels ?
Could it be a blocked circulation motor not giving enough pressure to spin the arms ?
The water level on fill should reach about half way up the salt pot lid and just about cover the base of the appliance with about 1/2″ of water.
The water matrix on the left hand side is the exact (almost ) amount of water required. If this is dumping all of its water into the sump then i’d suggest the circ pump is blocked or the impellor loose.
If it doesn’t dump all its water then i’d be looking at the pressure chamber.
P.S If the circ motor isn’t building enough pressure then check the hole in the sump base at about the 3 o’clock position. I’ve had a few where a small object in here ( plastic carton tag , piece of plastic ) has caused the fault you’re describing.
You have worked out the fault by yourself so well done on that 😉
A faulty condensor valve will cause the steam to come out of the machine as you described. Your theory as to why the steam is appearing is also sound .
All the valves should read approximately the same in their resisitance when tested across the terminals ….approx between 3.4 and 4.4 Kohms so the open circuit on the condensor valve does show a fault.A complete valve assembly is your best bet. Make sure you power off when replacing and also make a note of all the wires / hoses connected to make sure they get refitted correctly. When you get the new valve assy , it should be fairly self explanatory as to how to fit.
If you close the door and press start , can you hear the door ‘click’ to lock…or does the start light go from fllashing to solid but then you can still open the door ?
If no click and you can open door after start has been pressed , i’d suggest its a faulty door lock.
