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I have had one in over 4 yrs….and it was brand new so e swapped it out. Can’t say i’ve ever heard of a repair from any of our engineers .
lid off – screws out of rear and top of panel – drop down front base panel to reveal 2 lower front screws then lift the panel as the front edge is located on some pins.
EDIT : Mike…..what i wrote above is complete Tosh. Thought it was an earlier model. Check your PM’s for correct accessJohn , i can give you a list of a couple of other temp regs listed for that appliance. Each one is rated for diff temps i think….the 029954 is the upper limit – 85*C – safety stat i believe .
Also listed is – 022480 65*C and 067827 50*C
If the ‘check water’ light comes up then 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it’ll be the flow rate meter thats gone faulty – Part no:424099 . It normally starts to fill but then gets stuck in a constant fill/drain cycle with the CW light lit up .
Its the whilte cylindrical part fitted between the end of the inlet hose and the water matrix.
Kirk , the level on this is controlled by a float in the sump. As you look down into the sump , there is a small circular cover at about the 5 o’clock position. Pop this cover off to revel the float in its channel. You may find this float is all gunged up and isn’t rising as the water fills the tub. Hence you get an overfill condition and a constant fill/drain cycle.
Take out the float – making a note of its orientation , and give it a good clean. Also clean the float channel with some hot water so that the float travels freely up and down without stickng.
Hopefully this should clear your fault
Geoff , as you look down into the sump , there is a hole at approx the 3 o’clock position. This is where the water gets sucked into the circ motor…have a poke around in this opening. I have had quite a few faults like this where a foreign object has blocked the hole and therefore restricted water flow…plastic packet rip-offs are a favourite .
Have you checked the ribbed hose that goes from the pressure chamber into the tub ( It’s situated at the bottom right hand corner ) Is this clear ? A blockage in the hose will cause the water ‘back-up’ that you’re describing.
A burnt out spade connector normally means a poor contact between the connector and the heater terminal which has arced , causing the melt damage
Be warned though that on a heating cycle the terminals/connector will need to convey 8amps minimum….so if you do fit a new connector , it needs to be done properly with the correct partsPOWER OFF IF ATTEMPTING ANY REPAIR.
F21…on a WAE i’m guessing….is either to do with motor action or faulty Control module.
Its something concerned with electrical spikes if i remember correctly.
Soemtimes there’s nothing wrong with the motor which then means a new board….and you will need to enter the test programme to probably clear the inital fault if you want to further test it.
Of course , if its not a WAE then you can ignore the rest 🙂
There’s no fault mate . Its the out of balance system kicking in. Load should be full , with mix of small and large items .
Single large items i.e A bath mat , big bath sheet , dog blanket etc etc will all fail to spin if put in the machine on their own
