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Si,
The diagram shows three parts – the knob, the circular inner indicator disc (“scale disc” – so presumably printed) and a larger circular fitting called the reflector, which would appear to surround the whole sheebang.You may wish to torment your customer by pointing out that the knob insert is available as a spare as well – 8896613013-00/3. 🙄
Hope that helps,
Chris.Simon,
P/nos are:
Knob – 8996611947-17/8
Disc – 8996613911-85/9Didn’t come up on any of the wholesalers sites, so presumably special order.
Regards,
Chris.Nice thought DP – unfortunately it’s the semi-commercial with the monster Seimens brush/induction motor. I’ll pull it apart at the weekend after I’ve organised a small gang of navvies to drag the bugger out.
Cheers,
Chris.Safety stat failure or selector switch failure would be a good bet, also possible failure of switching mechanism in timer unit itself.
Time for an engineer…
Do nothing without cutting power first.
Regards,
Penguin45.Go into “Directories” (top left of screen), then Service Agents. There are a couple listed for CV postcodes.
Regards,
Penguin45.It is indeed, and should show a reading of just about 0 ohms.
If not, replacement is the only practical option. Oh yes, tell the Mrs not to open the door halfway through “To see how they’re doing”. This is an almost surefire way of tripping the fuse!
Regards,
penguin45.Obviously some sort of thermostat problem. If you can post up the model/serial number (Check around the door aperture is a good starting point) we will be able advise costs for the exact replacement.
Failing that there are “generic” continental oven stats available, which might be your quickest option with Christmas bearing down on us. I thought there was a listing in Shop@ but I couldn’t find it.
Anyway, Dave_Conway will be able to advise.
Regards,
Penguin45.Mark,
Commit to memory:“If you have any doubts about your abilities, get professional help. Whatever you do, pull the plug first”.
After the first 20 times, you can type it with your eyes shut. :lol2:
Welcome on board,
Chris.PS – don’t make any hair jokes – Kev gets all agitated.
Hi Alan,
Dave Conway will be able to source the bearing and seal kit for you.The job itself involves removing the rear crosspiece and assaulting the bearings with a steel bar and a lump hammer. Not exactly subtle, but very theraputic!
If you have any doubts, get some professional help. Whatever you do, pull the plug first.
Regards,
Penguin45.The door glass will NOT rebond at higher temperature. The correct course of action is to order a tube of Dave’s super sticky silicone sealant; remove the glass, get rid of the old sealant and clean mating surfaces until spotless. The reglue and leave alone for 24hrs.
I think the sealant is in Shop@, so go from there.
Regards,
Penguin45.Ken being so much younger than us Kev, that is of course a metric thimbleful. 😀
The extraction rate was measured after free water was pumped away IIRC and was done by weight.
Hot rinse? Remember all those shrunken clothes on the old 17 series Creda washer dryers? What a disaster THAT was………
Chris.
This is always a slight problem with any co-operative group – no single one of us knows everything! Woz’ll pass on the relevant numbers to you I’m sure – ready for next time!
Regards,
Penguin45.It actually takes a surprising amount of time for a combi to get fully down to operating temperature. This can be exacerbated by the machine not being particularly full. Air has appalling insulation qualities! Also, the delivery process always results in the appliance being tipped, so gas, oil and coolant can all get mixed. Even allowing for a standing period, the initial circulating period can be a little noisy as it sorts itself out!
Get the freezer filled up, give it a a day or so and see where you are then.
Regards,
Penguin45.
